Crazy as a moon

I can’t be the only one that is eternally grateful that such a monster of a full moon is gone daddy gone. I have always been especially susceptible to its pull but this month I could have eaten the world in two bites and drank it down with a flick of the wrist. Full of the sea change within me, within all of us, I would have broken out the big wings to fly if only I could.   

But good things can come of strange things. What beauty that bone white orb spread across our ancient monuments. Walking through, with my love at my side, I arrived at a bit of time holding its breath, just before the wane. Une petite pause. And très juste, this light, one entirely unafraid of banishing the dark.

Off to a great start

Yes, I am a liiiitle bit behind in my posting but it seems like I am not the only one who is taking her sweet time dipping into 2012. And yet I certainly have nothing to complain about as the year started with a bang. Well, the pop of a champagne cork to be more precise. We were invited out to lunch with our friends in the country for the day of the 1st. Thank goodness our friends are so generous with us and that we are now smart enough to just say, “Why thank you, we’d be delighted.” 
We clinked our coupes outside, each turning to let the sun give its first bisou de l’année on our cheeks. Talk about an air kiss! How could you not be conscious of having good fortune under such circumstances? We almost, almost could have had lunch on the patio.

Ah, but not quite and some things deserve one’s full attention. Oh yes, indeedy. Chef Remi had volunteered to bring the entrée and as we had been decidedly low-key on the cooking front throughout the holidays, I knew that the stops would be pulled out. And yet nothing could have prepared me for the insanely delicious and yet very simple dish that he whipped up. A lobster gratin with mushrooms and hearts of palm in a champagne cream sauce, each served in its own little bowl to keep it piping hot. I immediately declared it the best thing that I had eaten this year but of course, under the circumstances, that wasn’t saying much now was it?
How happy we all were. The Pic St. Loup was flowing as was the discussion of who, this week at least, was looking to be the likely winner of next years’ elections. Time taken to eat well and just enjoy that we had somehow made it to another year! As you can see, a certain furry creature was well-positioned to take full advantage of our open-hearts. 

For the main course, we devoured a gigot d’agneau that had been roasted for several hours until it was falling off the bone. We all took seconds. If it had been physically possible, I would have taken thirds.
There is that moment after a French lunch, that turning point where either everyone decides to go for a walk in a desperate effort to digest or take the express train to Napville. As on this particular afternoon it seemed to be the latter, I took my little camera in hand and followed by my trusty pupper, let the light lead me around the garden by the nose.

Yes, I know. How many times am I going to publish photos of this view? As long as it continues to make me so happy, I suppose. But really? The curve of the pines, the glisten of the olive grove, the monstrosity of the Chateau des Baux in the background…only in Provence.

A tiny moon was rising as if the champagne cork had taken flight and had become trapped in the stratosphere. The greens started to glow golden, the rough reds relaxed into a softened clay. How lovely to have these moments alone, save for Ben sniffing furiously behind me, all while knowing that friends and my honey were so near.

It was my time. To look and listen, waiting for the whispers of where this new year will take me.

L’Isle sur la Sorgue

On Christmas Eve, Remi and I decided to make a smart decision for our sanity’s sake and headed to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. No last minute mall run’s for us, instead we decided to head up to Europe’s third largest antiques market (after Paris’ Clignancourt and London) for a little bit of inspiration.

There are over 350 dealers spread out amidst several “villages” each with their own distinctive ambiance. As usual, we started with our favorite, Le Passage du Pont, also known as L’Ile aux brocantes. We love the less formal ambiance and also the extraordinary selection of pieces that wear their patina proudly on their oh-so-perfectly-tattered sleeves. We also were delighted to run into the couple that sold us the beautiful over-dyed linen sheets at the local monthly brocante in Arles. Their permanent stand was packed to the gills with gorgeous antique textiles but we were kept busy by a rather philosophical conversation with one of the owner’s who is taking the same doom and gloom stance towards the French economy that the French press has been hounding us with for months.

As that was exactly the kind of mentality I was looking to avoid, I politely excused myself and continued on to the stand of “Charlotte & Frédéric” or at least that is whom I think it belongs to as there was not a seller insight. During the off-season, quite a few stands are left unattended with only a card or a cell phone number posted for interested buyers. Oddly, it made the experience all the more pleasurable as we were able to oggle to our heart’s consent, free from any “So, are you interested?” sort of pressure.

Yes, there is still a bit of industrial style present and many of the important pieces have thankfully lost their overly restored Provençale gloss.
As charmed as I was by the vignettes and as clearly as I was lusting after the linen covered ottoman that I had absolutely zero use for, I felt drawn like a moth to a flame, as I always do, to the stand of Annie Gravezat. Along with her partner Bernard Roux, she was one of the pioneers of patina in Southern France and certainly an innovator in elevating that style from quirky to iconic. 

I couldn’t help think of my friend Brooke Giannetti, whose wonderful book Patina Style, became an instant success in the States. Yes, this is right up her and her husband’s Steve’s alley and I am looking forward to their discovering all of Provence next summer. 

And for those of you looking for the perfect shade of vintage Tolix chairs for your garden (and you know who you are), look no further! I love the combination of high and low…

…as well as the oooh ever-so-slightly kitsch. And yet, this Chinese temple lantern was the only piece that really tempted us that day. Would it look just right in our ‘petite salon’ hanging above our antique travel photography or would it be too much? With a sigh, we decided too much. Not without a bit of bumming as it is something that we have never seen before nor will most likely see again. Did we make a mistake?
It takes several hours, depending on your pace, just to skim the surface of the offerings. And that doesn’t include when twice a year, at Easter and in August the streets are overrun with an enormous flea market. It certainly is enough to make one work up an appetite! While Le Jardin du quai is the town’s most heralded restaurant (and deservedly not only for its fine cooking but its tables tucked into a garden du rêve), I was sorely tempted by the menu at Le Carré d’Herbes and hope to give it a try in the future.

The antiques, the bon bouffe, what else could one hope for? Well, beauty is always a good goal and L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue has that in spades. For canals of all sizes criss-cross the town, rendering it a little Venice in Provence. As the sun took its dive, I would have happily checked into La Maison sur la Sorgue, a small inn gleefully decorated by the owner’s of the antique shop on the ground floor but not this time! It was Christmas Eve and time to head to Home Sweet Home for our own wonderful celebration, both of us delighted to have spent a quiet afternoon, hand in hand, talking and dreaming…

Remi’s work in the New Yorker

©Remi Benali
I am thrilled to let you all know that one of Remi’s photographs will be in the January 9th edition of The New Yorker. The photograph illustrates “Reversal of Fortune,” an article by Patrick Radden Keefe concerning the lengthy struggle of the Ecuadorian people to hold Chevron financially responsible for the pollution created during the company’s twenty-year drilling process (under Texaco at the time) in the country. It is quite simply, the largest environmental suit ever and a case of David versus Goliath if ever there was one. Those of you that read the New Yorker will know that the use of photography in the magazine is fairly recent and remains rare so we are doubly pleased that Remi’s photograph was chosen for an issue that is dear to our hearts. 
Remi first captured the story while on assignment for Vanity Fair magazine. His photographs accompanied the article “Jungle Law” by William Langewiesche in 2007. Remi’s experience while shooting in the midst of the Ecuadorian rain forest was both challenging and striking as he captured some of the 900 oil waste pits left behind as well as portraying those suffering from cancer (the risk of death by the disease is up to thirty times in the region than elsewhere). For further of his photographs on the subject, please see his website but again, as these photographs are copyrighted, I ask that they not be borrowed or pinned.

©Remi Benali

UPDATE: Today, in a surprising turn of events, the Ecuadorian appeals court has upheld its condemnation of Chevron, holding them accountable for $8.6 Billion in damages. Additionally, if the company does not publicly apologize to the Ecuadorian public, the fine will be doubled to nearly $18 Billion. 

Baby, let the stars shine bright

As the afternoon slides towards night, I will look forward to saying hello 2012! And also, goodbye Pentax. You see, Santa was kind to me, so I am going to have a brand new camera to discover and more photographs to share with you of my corner of the world.
Wherever you are and whomever you are with, please know that I am sending my heartfelt wishes for the year ahead. May we all have good health, feel the warmth of love and the prickly sensation of adventure! As always, may hope lift you and guide you onwards.
With much gratitude and happiness in my heart…

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