Month: April 2013

Tastes of the Luberon, Evencio Vazquez

Ooh, it is a cold and rainy Monday morning in Arles, so I thought something to warm us all up was in order. And there is nothing like fine eats to get the blood pumping now is there? 

Why had I not thought of it sooner? It now makes utter sense: when searching for a vacation rental, the top criteria is not the location, the number of bedrooms, nor cleanliness, no, of utmost importance is that the owners should be caterers that also have an épicerie fine or gourmet boutique on site. For you see, that is exactly what Evencio Vazquez (affectionately called “Banco”) and his charming wife Véronique do in addition to welcoming guests at La Buissonade. 
And what a fine welcome it is. As we arrived just in time for Easter, the couple had just finished producing massive amounts of goodies for the holiday and so two chocolate figurines plus a jar of strawberry jam were waiting for us as our “welcome gift.” But that was just the beginning. For you see, Evencio and Véronique are genuinely generous. Remi and I both felt that they provided some of the finest hospitality that we had ever seen. Anywhere. Because it came from the heart.
We were offered some tasty treat or other nearly every day and our stay was topped off with a farewell lunch that was out of this world…oysters with leeks and bacon in a briny white wine emulsion,  possibly the best épaule d’agneau I have ever had, grilled local goat cheese crostini and a cake…chocolate, hazelnut mousse, créme caramel au beurre salée…I don’t even like cake! But this was like munching on an especially tasty cloud. 
Evencio, who cooked professionally for twelve years–including at Michelin-loved restaurants in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie–showed off his Spanish roots on another occasion by whipping up a platter of squid and shrimp tapas with an aîoli dipping sauce but shared his interpretation of a French classic, the millefeuille as a surprise on Easter Sunday. He also gave us a tender cut of chevreau along with a roll of Banon from the neighboring goat farm. Pity that Kipling stoll the cheese from right under our noses! Shameless. We were enjoying it too.

I loved that there was no pressure whatsoever to even set foot in their boutique. But of course, we are no fools and my highly attuned food radar was telling me to take some of this fine experience home with me. 

Remi and I have yet to taste all of what we purchased but have been delighted by everything so far–créme de Noix, two balsalmic reductions (one with honey and spices, the other with lavender honey), truffle olive oil, two vinegars (one with lavender honey and another with raspberry pulp), several jams (rose, fig with red wine and spices to serve with cheese and one that Remi quickly devoured that had white chocolate in it), a confit d’oignons au gingembre…All interesting, beyond the norm combinations. Does it seem as though we bought out the entire shop? We could have! Especially as their prices are incredibly reasonable for the fine quality of ingredients used.
The couple hopes to open a restaurant in the future and we both strongly urged them to consider offering tables d’hôtes or fixed-price dinners, as well as cooking courses for the guests of the cottage. Wouldn’t that be wonderful? And yes, if you are so fortunate as to live in the area, they are excellent, creative caterers as well. 
Evencio Vazquez and Véronique Nitard
http://www.evprovence.com/
Veronique’s cell for English speakers: 06 20 64 21 08
Pour mes amis Francophone, Evencio’s: 06 03 17 23 31
Email: veroniquenitar@aol.fr
Website for La Buissonade: here
To read more about my Tastes of the Luberon, please click here. And it hopefully goes without saying that in no way is this a sponsored post, I am just happy to spread the word about some incredibly kind and talented people. 

Have a great week everyone!

PS. Folks, I am no longer accepting anonymous comments. The spam is just way too out of hand and there are actually very, very few of you who have used this. From here on out, you will need a registered profile. Thanks for understanding…

Beginning in the underbrush

A billow of thyme releases underfoot as I step out of the car, stretching my crashing xylophone nerves, the tension of le départ. As has happened on our previous escapes to the Luberon, Remi and I are somehow on the cusp of a fight over nothing, as if we were overly eager to dive into the release of les vacances. Slow down, Heather. There is nothing but a big stretch of time rolling out in front of us like a magic carpet.

The carpet of earth–pliny greens that bend, miniscule buds blossoming and twigs that crackle underfoot–pulls my focus downwards. Or maybe it was just the thyme that has whispered me in.

Regardless, every millimetre is my garden to scan and wonder, “How different” from the pavement usually shoring under my feet.

It seems to be a welcoming gift.

We turned off the road near Joucas, then on to another and finally on to a dirt path that crests on a small rise. Hidden but the same as all of the countryside around us. Nothing special and yet…

…for a moment the size of the world seems to inverse with the prickles of sensations that arise.

We flip down the back of the Range Rover to let the dogs run. I unpack the picnic quickly bought but carefully chosen and watch the small smile of approval as Remi looks over the delectables spread out on the blanket. I knew he would be pleased. We eat quietly, occasionally scolding Ben and Kipling for their insistent begging, something they would never dare do at home.

As Remi finishes his millefeuille, I pick up my camera and stray back towards the old stone wall that had initially said, “Turn Here.” Scraggly vines point accusingly at a cloud cover that is trying to break but failing. I don’t mind. 
For I am content to be in the sous-bois, that French term that is so much lovelier than the English ‘underbrush’ and am reassured that no matter what lies ahead, I have already sipped my fill of beauty, pure.

Cozy Cottage Rental in the Luberon

Bienvenue à La Buissonade!
Welcome to the cottage that we rented during our recent escape to the Luberon. Bah, I say the Luberon because I know that will catch your attention. You might nod your head knowingly, having read the canon of a certain Mr. Mayle. But I will admit we were an entire three kilometres over the border into the neighbouring region, Les Alpes de Haute-Provence. And oooh what a difference that mile makes! You see, just to the North lies the Plateau d’Albion, which until 1999 was home to France’s land-based nuclear missile base. And the reputation taints the area still. Tant mieux pour nous, quoi. All the more room for us. Because the region is absolutely splendiferously gorgeous. You can fight amongst the hordes to see the lavender fields at the Abbaye de Senanque near Gordes if you want but I’ll be here instead, languorously cruising along these blue hills that run up and over the horizon. Forget the bling and bring on Banon–cheese that is. What? This is all starting to ring a bell? Why thank you, yes, we have been to this wonderful corner of Provence before, twice actually and both times were head over heels. Or muzzle over paws. 
Now that we have two puppers, including a new one who has a tendency to chase after cats–let alone chickens–the charming cabanon from our previous stays was no longer a viable option for us. Luckily, a cottage that I had found on my initial search was now available! And in the first of many kind gestures of Véronique and Evencio, our amazing hosts, we were welcome to come a night early to boot. 
Are you ready to discover this delightfully cozy cottage? 
Come on up and step into the spacious living room…
…have a seat on the canapé, where you can look out the glass front door to see…
…the front garden with its wood-fired BBQ and then onto Simiane-la-Rotonde, which sparkles star-like in the evening.
Or turn over your left shoulder to gaze out on to the lavender fields…
…where at dusk we would spy deer and wild boar grazing.
In need of a restorative tea after your journey? Yes, well then there is room at the antique wooden table.
Sit and let the light flood over you. You are on vacation, you have nothing to do now but relax.
Unless…well, I know very well that for many of you, an immediate selling point would be the over-stocked English language bookcase that could inspire even the most literary amongst us…
…yes, there is plenty of Stephen King but also Jeanette Winterston, A.S. Byatt, the Austen Sisters, Cervantes, Frances Mayes, Shakespeare, James Joyce…I could go on. Book Heaven and so completely unexpected.
But if you are at all like us, you love to cook. Not to worry, m`sieurs-dames, the kitchen has everything you need and then some. Although honestly, if we could have rustled up our breakfast on that smoky BBQ, we probably would have.
Now, I know I said ‘cozy’ but the cottage is big. A wonder for two people and the clic-clac in the living room folds out for the little ‘uns. 
And after the literal ‘water closet’ of our current apartment, the bath, with an Italian shower and zinging water pressure was a true luxury in itself.
But la luxe is not the point at La Buissonade, true comfort is. The kind that I didn’t really begin to appreciate, fool that I am, until a few days in (Remi wasted no time at all). Such as in the bedroom…
   
…with its layers of bedding, princess and the pea, that opened up onto…
…the sweetest little terrace, the first spot to receive the morning sun. We had lunch there every day we could and even a few when we shouldn’t have.
Because the outdoor spaces have much to offer, so let’s step outside…
…and hide, perhaps, under the trellised arbor. Well, it isn’t quite the season yet, but can you imagine what a refuge it would be when the vines create cool shadow in August and burn to red leaves in autumn?
Beware of the ferocious guard dog. He is keeping patrol over entry into the cottage’s private side garden…
…overlooking a mini-unsmelly swamp–hence the property’s name–it is equipped with a bench and table for the first coffee of the morning and glass of wine of the apéro…
…as well as two chaise-longues to push under the Weeping Willow.
It is a perfect spot for breakfast of delicious pastries from the bakery that is just a two minute drive up the road. It is a place to linger and take in all of the ambiances…
And at the end of the day, how perfect to light a roaring fire and snuggle into the silence…
We all felt right at home at La Buissonade…
…and I can’t wait to go back.
La Buissonade
Route de Banon
04150 Simiane-la-Rotonde
Contact Véronique at: (+33) 6 20 64 21 08 or by Tel./Fax at: (+33) 4 86 90 11 17
Email: veroniquenitar@aol.fr
Their website
Book en English through French Connections and see the photos of the house in full season: here.
Some final things to know:
Véronique rents mainly to Anglophones and is fluent in English. She has also made several maps and guides for the guests of the cottage that are charming.
The current rate is 290€ per week, going up to 390€ per week in high season (mid-June through mid-September). Very, very reasonable.
Some of you expressed interest in the previous cabanon but said that you feared it was too isolated. This cottage would be a better option. Yes, the owner’s house is attached next door but they are incredibly discreet if that is what you prefer. But even I, who usually prefers to be left alone, found myself seeking their fine company, however. It is also just off of the main road between Simaine-la-Rotonde and Banon but we could barely hear road traffic and were delighted to have immediate access to where we were going. There is a tiny supermarket at Simiane with the basics and everything you need in Banon, at ten minutes away, including two markets on Tuesday and Saturday. Apt, the closest city, is only a little over twenty minutes away (where there is an excellent wine co-operative, Sylla). The cottage is also incredibly well-protected. I felt very, very safe. The gardens are closed with a fence (fantastic for our puppers) and the owners have a very, very sweet dog who happens to be a great guard. Again, this is the country and there can be black flies in the area, especially in July and August. But we loved our time here and I will do a follow-up post to explain yet another reason why it is so special…to give you a hint: Véronique and Evencio have a catering business…
Happy trails!

Ben and Kipling in the Luberon

If ever there was a moment when I felt that a little sweet relief was merited, it is today. So here are just a few photos of “my boys” from our recent trip to the Luberon (more on which is soon to follow). May they bring you a smile after a long, difficult week…

Have a calm and restful weekend everyone…

The Light of Marseille

I made a promise to keep moving forward, to keep a focus on beauty and good. So while my heart is most certainly reeling from the horrible explosions in Boston and now Texas, I will clutch on to that promise like a rope of peace. I know that so many of you are struggling to do the same, each in your own way.
My first instinct was to share a little light and there is nothing petite about la lumière de Marseille. “Why is it so bright?” I asked Remi as we walked along the Quai de la Joliette. “The sea acts like a giant reflector,” he responded. “It bounces the sun up and out.” And while it was nearly blinding, it was ultimately illuminating, pulling apart the contrasts with gentle fingers. I wanted to capture it all, like a child jumping at melting snowflakes. But we were late, so late to see the amazing Koudelka exhibition at La Vieille Charité that there was not a moment to lose. So I literally took most of these photos while walking, nary a pause. 
Afterwards, we made a long loop back to where we were parked and still I was snapping practically non-stop. “Do you really find that interesting?” Remi asked, not unkindly, at one point while I was photographing a stop light backed against blue office windows. Yes, I did. I do. 
Bright light shine and show the way, propel us forward, just like the light of Marseille, out of our collective darkness. 

I just want to add one thing that surprised me in the responses to my previous post. It is funny, this internet world. Our personalities shine through our words and reactions distinctly even with the distance. I think that you all know how grateful I am that so many of you are loyal visitors and commenters. I light up each time I see what I could call “your familiar faces.” 
And so I was amazed, truly, to discover that so very many of you are from Boston. So many, it is incredible. And I just want to say that each and every one of you, while different in many ways, have one quality that unites you: a big heart, a generous spirit. Each and every one. That says so much doesn’t it? It gives me hope for Boston and beyond.

Trying to understand

… But I am not arriving this time.
And I am sad and scared and angry to say “this time”… Lost in dismay at the frequency of horror in our society…

Is our world breaking?

I am sending Love and Prayers, the only antidote I know.
Many thanks to Jeanne at Collage of Life for her most recent post. I found some peace in reading it and if you are so inclined, you can find it here.

Culture run to Marseille

Yesterday was belle bleu bling of the rub your eyes in Loony Tunes disbelief variety. “Let’s go to Marseille,” Remi tossed out just as the coffee was kicking in. “Where did that come from?” I wondered. “We never go to Marseille.” Have you heard its reputation? If rumours were to be believed you could not cross the street without being blind-sided and mugged then trampled over by vagrants.

Now, you would think that with our travelling experience, we would know better than to listen to les préjugés défavorables. Alas, um, nope. I believed the hype. Me, who used to walk home past Show World in Time Square at 3AM with nary a wrinkle of fear.

So it was with triple delight that I opened up my eyes to a vibrant, fascinating city. And there was nothing random about it, Remi had a plan. He always does.

Our destination? La Vieille Charité. Built in the 17th century, it was as an almshouse for the poor that, while sounding like a refuge, was essentially a prison for beggars not to mention a workhouse for children. In 1760, there were over one thousand residents. After the French Revolution, it was taken over by the homeless and fell into disrepair. 
It was the influential Minister of Culture André Malraux who spear-headed the movement to restore the facility to its former Baroque glory, a process which would take over sixteen years.

Today, the Vieille Charité is home to several museums and is a thriving cultural centre.
There is nothing like ART to shake away the sadness of the past now is there?

With the light ping-ponging off the warmed up stone, we felt nothing but light, happiness…

…and inspiration breaking through and through and through. How it does.
The absolute main reason for our visit was a last dash to see the exhibition “Vestiges” by famed Magnum photographer Josef Koudelka. From 1991-2012 he voyaged across nineteen countries around the Mediterranean to document the remains of the Roman and Greek archeological sites.
The result of his journey is absolutely stunning. Remi and I were both left breathless.
Unfortunately, I couldn’t take any photos in the exhibition itself, so please enjoy by clicking here to have an inkling. Gorgeous.
However, photography was allowed in the other temporary exhibition, The Treasury of Marseille, which featured 29 relics from the Greek National Treasury that had never been seen outside of their home country as well as a gorgeous 3D representation of the original temple at Delphi in which they were housed.
Admittedly, I was less drawn to the delicate fragments than to the bolder ideas, the colors and fluidity of the son et lumière, the sound and lighting special effects of which the French are true specialists.
Whoever thought up having clouds blow across the roof of the chapel has my dear gratitude. I was transfixed…
…and left dreaming of what it was like to be an explorer then…
…and happy, very much so, to be an explorer now. 
Both exhibitions are a part of Marseille-Provence 2013, where the city and the surrounding region (including Arles!) have been declared the European Capital of Culture. There is so much more to see and I will look forward to taking in all that I can and hopefully bringing you along for the ride…

Spring Cleaning

“Where were you again?” “We were in the Upper Luberon. Where it becomes the Alpes de Haute Provence.” “And what did you do there exactly?”… “Rrrrien.” With a rolled ‘r’ for effect. 
Nothing. We did nothing. Or next to it. Because I do count a good deal cooking and reading, walking and looking. A lot of looking. Kind of like spring cleaning for the mind. That seeing without the machine whirring behind it.
So I don’t have dramatic stories to tell because I wasn’t spinning them. If anything I was unspooling the thread. Leaving it like a trail behind me. Step back, step back, gently, quietly.
Did we have a wonderful time? We did. And did the puppers? They did too.
More soon once I organize my click-clacks but for now, why don’t you take a seat on the moss covered bench in the clearing of a forest?
It will do you good, I promise.
Good to go, good to be Home.

Locks and Bones

Hello there! We are still, amazingly, in the Luberon and thanks to the generosity of our wonderful hosts (more about them later), will stay a few days extra. This land tends to hold on to us, our visit last September stretched similarly.

So, I will send off a bit of Arles, which is only an hour and a half drive away but yet is so far, far from this mountainous slow waltzing of day into night into…Always in travelling, we have the time to ponder what holds us back, how we put on a good front, what propels us forward. Our locks and bones. Sometimes symbols, physically literal and known to shake like a baby’s rattle…

Detroit Urbana, Sam’s Pawn Shop

“Our greatest challenge.” 
There are so many questions that come to mind when mulling over that phrase. And I certainly don’t have any answers. But I wonder if these photos of Sam’s Pawn Shop on Michigan Avenue in Detroit conjure the essence of a major problem, that of the alienating and elongating distance between the have’s and the have not’s in our world. What is the fuel for that fire?
How can we put it out?

Today’s post was my contribution to the monthly By Invitation Only series. To see the other responses, please click here.