Cannes and the Ile Saint-Honorat

Sometimes I get the jitters. I see something so beautiful that tzzt, tzzt my brain freezes up and does not compute. Who gets nervous in the face of extreme beauty? Well, sometimes, I do.
Yesterday I experienced one of those moments but for now, I will have to keep it under wraps and protect my memories with the austerity of the body guard above on the Baie de Cannes. 
Oui, Cannes! And although the opening ceremony of the 65th Festival de Cannes will take place this evening (and yes, Francois Hollande was also sworn in as the French President today! Woopwoop!), our visit in April was a world away from glitter gowns on the red carpet. Time to replace the swank of the silent screen with an entirely different power play.
Remi, Ben and I watched the rooftop of the Carlton sink as our ferry pulled out to sea. After 20 minutes of a gentle rise and fall, we had arrived at the Ile Saint-Honorat, a shaded drop of rocks some 1000 meters from the Croisette. So close and yet so far…
There has been a monastery on the island for sixteen centuries. Yes, centuries. In roughly 410 AD, Saint Honoratus came to live as a hermit on the uninhabited island known as Lerina. By 427, monks from across Roman Provence had followed him to found a thriving monastery.
Many trials followed. Despite its eventual fortification, the monks were exposed to numerous attacks by the Saracens, young monks were captured and sold to Spain, the property was pillaged by pirates. And yet they persisted until the French Revolution, when only four remained. The island was privatized and sold. A certain Mademoiselle de Sainval, then a famous actress, turned the chapels into her receiving rooms.

But in 1859, the monastery was bought by the Bishop of Fréjus. Ten years later, Cistercian monks from the Abbaye de Sénanque took up residence, a tradition which has remained until this day. There are 30 monks currently living on the island, which is, rather amazingly in my mind, open to visitors such as ourselves that are looking for a respite, our numbers restricted only by the capacity of the ten ferries that run the course from the mainland each day.

Peace seems to fall from the trees and whisper on the waves. A bit too perfect, it is hard to take in.
Just beyond the neighboring Ile Saint-Marguerite the Alps puncture the sky with their chalky white peaks. Is it mirage? How can the snow and sea be so close?

Words fail me, my eye starts to falter. My camera could not capture the truth of a blue beyond believing no matter how much I wished it to.
Better then to admit defeat and go to lunch, n’est-ce pas?  

Yes, there is one restaurant on the island, La Tonnelle, and it is good. My only advice would be to immediately reserve for lunch upon stepping off the ferry and go early enough to be assured of ordering the menu at 25€ for two courses or be prepared to pay the piper of La Carte. After taking a sip of an  excellent, slighty salty white wine (made by the monks) that I had ordered while waiting for our table Remi turned and said, “You did see that the wine is 9€ the glass?” I nearly did a spit take. Next time, we will bring a picnic.

 
Clouds lowered as we finished our repas and yet the island was all the more appealing for it. 
The many shades and textures of the shoreline popped into relief.

I fingered scrubby brushes of palm while nervously watching Remi caper on the rocks. That man will do whatever it takes to get his shot. No jitters for the professional. Ever. 
As we headed back to the dock, I saw a switch of feathers rustling in an olive grove. A wise pheasant who had chosen his home well. Somehow his presence wasn’t the least bit surprising, only reassuring.

What a dramatic shift as we stepped back upon the shores of Cannes. The silence that reigns on the Ile Saint-Honorat swiftly imploded.
But it is a joyous Super Bass of beachiness that radiates all along the Cote d’Azur, especially early in the season when everyone still believes their luck is too good to be true…
…that they may find just the right wave…
…to surf on a surge of a beauty–the simple kind–all the way home.

I love everything, three

I love Aix-en-Provence. Those of you that have been with me for a while have already read about my rapturous, snap-happy moments here as well as here. It is just. So. Elegant.
And as some of us were in the doldrums, some a bit out of sorts and another over-worked we decided to take a trip to down our anti-stress med of choice: beauty.

 
Because there is really nothing like a whop of biddy-bump (the above two photos were my view during lunch on the left and right respectively) to turn that frown…
…upside down, my friends.
However, it was hooot. As in 32°C or nearly 90°F! Holy Cannoli, not even my perspiringly chilled glass of rosé could put out that fire. And with Ben along (who was offered water everywhere–Vive la France!), we knew that it would be a shorter stroll than usual.

We did stumble upon the Maison d’Emmaus, the local branch of the amazing Emmaus Organization. For those of you that have not heard of it, think Salvation Army with a more active role in changing the circumstances surrounding the lives of the needy. Always good to give to a worthy cause yes?

So I was all too willing to fork over some truly small change for a new/old linen pillowcase, a bronze silk shirt and a lady-like Lancaster handbag. Time to take a short ride on the karma train! 

But my wandering eye had obliterated my companion’s patience (why is that?) and so the rest of our visit would have been a jog if it wasn’t just too warm for that. Have you ever seen those poor tourists that are literally taking pictures while walking? That was me today.

 But one element that I really felt strongly, despite the nearly manic race back to the air-conditioned vehicle, was the electric energy of the café culture, something I had noticed before but was especially zapped by it today. The people watching was divine and the eaves-dropping delightful…The sweet push of youth finding their way during just another gorgeous day in Aix.

The title of this post, while a link to the others, is misleading. While I do love everything in Aix, there is really only one thing that I need to write today:
I love you, Mom!
I know how lucky I am to have such a beautiful, funny, intelligent, giving and all-around incredible person for a Mom. I hope that I tell her enough on other days beyond her celebration tomorrow.
I wish that I was there with you.
And as if this post wasn’t already hopelessly too long (Editing, Heather, editing!) I have a ps. or two. First off, the zucchini blossoms were just too fantastic not to share. My honey stuffed them with a shrimp, crab, bready-eggy mix and lightly fried them. Madness on a plate. Either that or I was delirious from eating them.
And secondly, look at this painting that I found while searching for information on Boulouris! Do you believe that it is the ocean pavilion of Pax, My Dream House on the Cote d’Azur? I do!
Have a wonderful Sunday everyone!

Edible

Isn’t that the oddest word? Edible? Yet, unlike its French counterpart mangeable it does sound like the act of gobbling. And what is going on with the Gallic translation of “yummy” into “miammy” or worse “miam miam”? I take my eats seriously, no need for childlike lingo here.

Especially in the spring when the market takes on Cradle of Mankind proportions. Or at least that is how I felt yesterday when the maliciously grumpy herb guy (truly he intimidates me so much that I often can’t get up the nerve to speak to him) suddenly decided…to like me. I decided to brave his steely glare as he finally had zucchini blossoms after a month longer wait than usual due to the lack of rains. Can you imagine my shock when instead of charging 12 for 2,50€–clearly a bargain–he threw in everything that he had left with a flick of the wrist, mumbling something about “being special to the ladies”? I was dumbfounded but credit the strength of my perfume with this miraculous behavioural transformation and won’t hold my breath for it to happen again.

Flowers you can eat! Easily amused, I giggled over the concept and placed the fragile packet on top of my other purchases, the Queens of the panier. I found it indescribably reassuring that the stems were still caked with dirt from his garden and the interiors dotted with the remains of morning dew. Stray petals clung equally tenaciously inside the basket of ruby red strawberries.

Speaking of those edible jewels, after fingering the remaining money in my pocket, I returned to buy yet another pot of strawberry jam from Tata Yette. This year, I am storing up after a woe-fully mismanaged previous year–it can’t be underestimated how quickly the jam will disappear and the sadness that will produce when it does. Madame Yette is a big woman with an equally round smile and does not take it for granted that I have shunned the other, more professional artisans for her home-made confections. They have the power to heal, I tell you. Remi was cured of a life-long aversion to the fruit after just one spoonful. Woe betide me if I dare set foot at my Mom’s doorstep without an offering of Tata’s abricot jam at the ready–but that is another story…better to breathe in the scent of the thyme citronée and relax. 

We certainly deserve to. Over the past week tensions have risen and fallen with the fact and aftermath of the elections–something that admittedly I face with a twinge of regret. For when the times get tough, the French get cooking. Or at least my particular Frenchman does. The more harrowing the scenario, the greater his need pour s’exprimer. Lucky me as I indulged in two of my favorite dishes in recent memory: a porc roti that had, amongst myriad other spices, the smack of cinnamon on its crackly skin and individual coquelets baked in mustard that somehow seemed much more than Dijon. 
It was almost, almost enough to ask me for the return of Martine Le Pen (or as I call her in my more snarky moments Martine Le Pew) but not quite. And I tell you, I was just one glass of wine short of declaring that both meals were “miam miam”. 

The Social in Socialism


Hello everyone! As a follow-up to yesterday’s post, I would like to share my response to an email that I received, one that asked in an open way how I, as an American raised in a Capitalist country, could endorse a Socialist candidate. After writing it, I thought that others amongst you might find it worth reading:
“Thank you so much for your email. I really appreciated both your question and how you presented it. It made me realize that I have been living in France for so long that I have taken for granted that an explanation of why I would back a Socialist candidate might be merited. First, a little bit more about my background: I grew up in Ohio, Michigan, Pennsylvania then Santa Cruz, CA before moving to Manhattan. My Dad worked in retail his entire life (they called him “Dr. Retail”), my Mom works in retail and my Sister has her own business. So I too grew up with Capitalism. I also remember that Socialism was lumped together with Communism and Marxism when I learned about it at school while the reality of how Socialism operates in France is quite different from that.

There are many kinds of Socialism and even different kinds of Socialists within the Socialist party here in France (as an aside it is worth noting that there were ten candidates from various political parties from extreme right to extreme left before the first round of voting here, it is a much broader palette than Republican, Democrat or Independent!). However, the most prominent form is that of Social Democracy which promotes not revolution but reform within a Capitalist society. France has long held a mixed economy and is one of Europe’s most state-controlled Capitalist economies (including most of our utilities, transport, etc.). François Hollande’s platform includes two key topics in Social Democracy: social reform and wealth redistribution through aid and taxation. One of his primary focuses is education and the promotion of youth, something that is direly needed in France today where young people have a 25% unemployment rate. Yes, his taxation of those that will net over a million Euros a year (one that will come out to roughly 55% rather than the 75% reported) is controversial but not radically different than some of Warren Buffet’s or Stephen King’s current suggestions that the mightiest need to do their part and it will also permit Hollande to raise the minimum wage. Similarly, some of Hollande’s proposals, such as an immediate 30% pay cut for the President and his ministers, remind me of FDR’s New Deal, which aimed to bring a society together in a time of crisis. 

France is currently so terribly splintered. Not only is the gap between the “Have’s” and “Have Not’s” widening to the extremes (France’s wealthiest experienced a 40% increase of their worth last year) but the tensions between young and old, white or not white (regardless of whether someone was born in France or not) have lead to a society that is fear-driven and that is very much “each man for himself.” Growth is impossible in such a social climate. Neither is changing to a purely Capitalist economy an option in a country that has been constructed on social ideals such as free education, unemployment aid, free medical insurance and social security. Nicolas Sarkozy pushed the country in a more distinctly Capitalist direction and quite simply, it didn’t work. Or it did for a very, very few. It encouraged me so much to see that, here in Arles, the poorest neighborhoods had the highest voter turn-out and they voted strongly for Hollande. People want change. 

I could go on but this might begin to explain as well as I am capable of doing. As a Democrat, I also whole-heartedly endorse many of Hollande’s proposed social reforms but that is not what you were asking about and is perhaps irrelevant. I do realize that he has a too enormous task ahead of him but I believe that he might end up being one of France’s great presidents regardless. There is still an undercurrent of the aristocracy here in France–those that are in control are often from the wealthiest, oldest families. If this “normal” man can bring about change, more power to him.”


I spoke with Remi during lunch (he attained a law degree before becoming a photographer and is the sharpest news hound I know). He asked that I include the reminder that since the Revolution, people have fought and died in order to build into the government certain controls (for lack of a better translation) with the aim of protecting the respect for the human condition. So that people do not have to work every day of the week and that children are no longer a part of the labor force. To have the guarantee of a retirement. On May 1, the French people pay tribute to the sacrifices that were made for their current freedom and to salute the power of the workforce. 

This is a lot of politics to throw at you over two days but it is also an important part of living in France. I understand if it is not your cup of tea and hope that any comments will remain polite. In no way am I making comparisons or saying that one country is better than another–that is a conversation that doesn’t interest me in the least. The differences are always worth examining and what makes our world so interesting!


Brighter Day

The already stunningly deep blue sky seems to me to be even brighter this morning. I woke up feeling lighter, a weight had been lifted off of my chest that I hadn’t realized was there. I am really happy–no, I am really, really, really happy that François Hollande was elected the French president yesterday.
Five years ago, I listened to Nicolas Sarkozy’s promises and was thrilled to see that a record number of people turned out to vote. And yet, with the passing of time, I was increasingly disappointed by the “divide and rule” tactics and fear-mongering that ensued. As someone who works in the press, I saw first-hand how he muzzled the editors of some of France’s most important magazines in the name of self-interest. As a foreigner, I felt more and more unwelcome as he chased after the vote of the extreme-right Front National Party, whose ideology is based upon limiting the arrival of immigrants such as myself. Sarkozy dared to say to a fellow citizen “Casse-toi, pauv’con!” (roughly “get out of my way, you poor jerk”) and his ministers could make ‘jokes’ about France’s Arabic population without being reprimanded. The economy worsened without solutions for those in the middle and lower classes while caps on tax hikes were put in place for the wealthiest. The jobless rate continued a steady climb. There hasn’t been much in the way of hope in the air for quite some time now.
So goodbye to all of that.

Today is a day to celebrate!
I’ll leave you with some photos of one of my favorite corners of the Alpilles, just beyond St. Remy. My honey has long been attracted to this tiny chapel and has photographed it many times. I never tire to accompany him as there is always something new in the land, in the light to try and capture…

…including a heart shaped rock, surrounded by stone in the middle of that ancient wall. What a beautiful discovery and it seems somehow very appropriate for how I am feeling today.
Have a wonderful week everyone! 
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