Down below my window, a band of children are chanting “Fous le camp! Fous le camp!” with the snaps of firecrackers to punctuate their disenchantment. Get the h*ll out of here, indeed. Earlier, an older group of adolescents let out several rounds of a brouhaaaahaaa howl that ended up sounding more like a Ho Ho Ho from Santa. You see, Halloween doesn’t come easily to the French. It isn’t their holiday.
For here, it is not tonight that matters but tomorrow, La Toussaint, which is both All Saint’s Day…
…and All Soul’s Day. So while there are special services in the Catholic churches, it is also one of the most important days of the year for families to come together. They will honor those that have come before them…
…and as chrysanthemums are at their fullest, they are the traditional flowers to take to the cemetery, where the plots will be cleaned and prayers said. It is a solemn moment, devoid of the bright vivacity of Dia de los Muertos. Over the past few days, I have seen the streets fuller than usual with family members walking and whispering, weighed by what is said and unsaid. The sky has been blue with black clouds lowering, giving my stomach a bit of a twist save for that early evening when I went to the Arena with Ben to watch the full moon rise and rise until my fingers were numb with the cold. I always feel something unnameable during this time, whether it is the ancestors passing down or just a sense of collective reflection, I don’t know.
Well, it looks as if I spoke too soon as my post was to end there. But amidst my concentrated typing, click click click, the burrr of our buzzer gave me a start and produced a sharp bark from Ben. I discerned giggles of anticipation in the street. Luckily, Remi and I had just returned from the grocery store, where at the last moment, I had grabbed a package of a certain American candy bar, something in me hoping…”just in case.” You see, Halloween has always been one of my very favorite holidays, one where anyone and everyone is entirely encouraged to think outside the box, to be creative to let their freak flag fly.
I must say I was underwhelmed with the costume effort. Some plastic capes, an ersatz wig–but was that ever the point? And no, it is not their holiday but perhaps they are trying to make it so. For one of the polite little witches promptly handed me an envelope while I was giving out the goods. “C’est pour vous,” she said simply. And then they were gone.
Happy Halloween to those of you that are celebrating. And more importantly, continued good wishes of strength and support to all that have been touched by Hurricane Sandy’s passing. Thank you so very much to those that reassured me of your well-being during the past 24 hours, it is much appreciated.
Wonderful photos and beautifully written Heather. I do enjoy your perspective in life. Sounds like a much different experience tfan what we are accustomed to here in the states.
Tonight will be about the kids, family, a hearty meal, and lots of treats 🙂
We will welcome the little ones with sweet treats tonight, trying to thrill them just enough with our costumes, jack-o-lanterns and creepy sounds (although they'll know who we are when they hear the dogs greeting them). Tomorrow, with your lovely reminder in mind, I will go to polish and put flowers at my parents' memorial. Since I will have to do that alone, I think I will print out your photographs and words to keep me company. Thank you, Leslie in Portland.
Halloween is not our holiday either. It is starting to catch on, but only just. As you say, tomorrow is the most important day – All Saints and All Souls. Dear Heather, I was immensely touched by your latest comment on my blog. That I am an inspiration to you goes beyond my wildest expectations. That you include me with Suze as an inspiration, is a great honour for me. I wanted to let you know that, likewise, you and Suze always strike a chord with your beautiful words and I love visiting both of you. Though many miles separate us I do think that, sometimes, our collective energies meet somewhere – am not sure where. Perhaps … en El Inframundo?
Heather, I love hearing your take on the transition from October to November on your side of the world. Your photos send an ethereal, spooky, solemn vibe that I can feel all the way in gray, rainy Seattle. And I love the little witch's offering. I like the thought of this time of year being a time for family and not just sugar consumption! Here, the ghost and goblins will take to the streets somewhere around 3:30, starting at the little string of businesses in my neighborhood. Later, we'll all gather at a nearby friends for pumpkin soup and wine. Mr. H and I will take on the door answering and candy dispensing so that they can take their kids out for tricks and treats – many homes in this neighborhood will fill an adult's glass with wine while giving kids candy. So sugar and family and friends – and home by 9pm with very little spooking. Happy Halloween to you, my friend! XO
Lovely post, and spooky pictures, Heather. Yes, we are getting ready to celebrate here in Seattle. My American-born child will go out and walk around the neighborhood with his friends tonight. He loves "Ah-Ah" Halloween! We will have a special thought for the poor New Jersey kids who will have to wait until Monday to go trick or treating – Governor's orders! – As for your French ghosts and witches, I enjoyed their little note. I found this article in the Huff Post today. They do a pretty good job at analyzing why Halloween did not really "take" in France… Happy reading! Veronique (French Girl in Seattle)
http://www.huffingtonpost.fr/2012/10/30/halloween-raisons-declin-commercial-fete-france_n_2044272.html
You have me dreaming of Arles again with these images! It must be a difficult time with your friends and family enduring the hurricane and storms in the USA. My thoughts are with you as well as with those who have been effected by this natural disaster. Gross bisous.
What was in the envelope? How adorable!
The envelope is written in English? Yet the little witch spoke French? I am bewildered and intrigued.
It's a very different atmosphere in Australia, where for us Halloween falls in the warmth of mid spring, and there is truly much more excitement about horses and the Cup than anything else – that and the sense of anticipation which comes from summer being tantalising near, and the long Christmas summer holidays not so very far away.
Increasingly, we get many sweet little children all dressed up and out and about to trick or treat. John did wonder what on earth they would do if anybody ever said "trick". It's no place for the adolescents – much too cool for such dress ups. So here, far from being mystic and a time of reflection, it is much more a sense of the beginning.
Isn't it interesting how the weather affects our customs and mood so? xx
Hello Heather:
There most certainly is, as you say here, a very special atmosphere in the air at this time of year. It seems as if one is at the crossroads of looking back at a year spent whilst waiting for the birth of a new year yet to come. All around appears to be still and holding its breath in a subdued reverence.
Here in Hungary, the 'Day of the Dead' is very much taken to heart and cemeteries the length and breadth of the country are lit with thousands of candles and adorned with sheaves of flowers. It is a very special sight and one that we hold dear in our own hearts and minds.
Your Halloween visit seems to have been a highly civilised affair but, perhaps, a poignant reminder of your home country at a time when so many are suffering such distress. We too reach out with our prayers to those who are frightened and in difficulty.
As this IS your holiday, dearest Heather, may all your tricks be treats this Halloween!
ah Heather you win the spooky picture routine..hehehe…
you must forgive the costumes it is a recently adopted gig
on that side of the pond…when we were there in 1998…nothing..
sort of a relief after years of costumes for six darlings!
hugs h