After leaving the Place des Vosges, I walked briskly up to the Musee Carnavalet. My combat boots thudded on the pavement for I was dressed to make the most of my very short time in Paris and not to catch the eye of Mr. Cunningham.
But, as always, when I turned into the gardens, which, kindly are available for the gander before the museum’s entry, time did what it always does in that particular spot: pirouette, curtsy, stop.
I must have had that goofy smile on my face for I could feel one of the gardner’s gaze swish across me like a shadow. She was about my age and also a redhead, just a more miniature Parisienne version of me. Yes, she even had that certain panache despite her bright green “Jardins de Paris” jumpsuit.
“You have an amazing job,” I blurted out with a vaguely show-girl arm sweep towards the topiary surrounding us.
She laughed, startled by my directness but nodded her head in agreement. “It isn’t always so glamorous though,” she added and I responded with “I am not so sure about that” head shake. We chatted a bit more and then wished each other a Bonne Journée.
As I continued towards the rue des Rosiers to sate my months-long craving for a felafel with all of the fixings (truly one of the great take-out options in Paris at only 5.50 Euros a pop), I thought, “That is why I am still mad about the Marais and always will be.”
For despite that every. single. storefront has been transformed into a clothing boutique featuring cool goods the likes of which I could never begin to afford…
…it is in this neighborhood that I feel the bonhomie that often eludes me elsewhere in the City of Light. And that makes the city not quite so big after all. I sat down on a bench in one of my favorite little squares and munched happily, shivering slightly while I did so and sighed a little valentine to the beautiful Marais.








Perfectly said, Karena! And I was in such a hurry…one could spend days just in the Marais alone!
Grazie mille, Emilia! 🙂
Oooh, that happened to me the first time that I visited Florence! And it was more than a wee chill, it was a big old wave of "yes."
You and me in Paris? heehee Oh my we would have fun…
Happy to oblige, Rebecca! You can see them here in a piece that I wrote a few years back (and still love) for the wonderful DA Wolf at Daily Plate of Crazy:
http://dailyplateofcrazy.com/2013/02/28/french-chic-and-shock-transitioning-to-life-in-france/
I like that you come to the country. Uzes has just enough elegance to be like a touch of Paris with far more peace…
Thanks for sharing this vignette of your wonderful day. Can hardly wait to walk around the Marais when I get to Paris some day. It's at the top of my list! Amities, Jill
since I live in a big city, I never want to spend my vacation visiting another big city…I always opt for the quiet of the village. Sounds like I need to change my ways! I have only been twice, and it was a long time ago…I don't remember if I was in the Marais or not. (terrible, I know!)
I can't be the only one who wants to see a photo of those combat boots!
pure loveliness in words and photos
Your last photo was so exciting to me as the door to the left of the Boulangerie is the door to the apartment were we stayed last May and had such an amazing time in Le Marais!! I'm going to send you blog to Patrice, the owner, he will be pleased I'm sure. It was such a great location, so many shops, markets, restaurants, and a nice walk to a main Metro station, Le Chatelet, near the Hotel de Ville. Close to the River – what a beautiful place! I was so glad to read all your posts and how much you, too, enjoyed this area of Paris. With a curtsy and a bow to you and a promise that We WILL all return!! I'll send you a snap of the 'door' – it's a wonderful bright red!
DO you know I use to make and sell FALAFELs when I lived in Ellie's HOOD!Yes, I did I worked at a snack shack basically called MALIBU MUTTS owned by a BETTY………………I ADORED Those things and that yogurt sauce………….delicious.I would like one now please…………
You and your words…….pirouette,curtsy, STOP!I love that!XOXO
Sounds like the perfect day .. The mystery, the majesty, and the Falafel. Oh yeah! Merci, Heather, for taking us there. For me it is six weeks and counting .. muddling along the best I can on Kauai, but seriously needing my biannual immersion within wonderful France. Merci Beaucoup !
Aloha et Au revoir,
Bill
http://www.kauai-to-paris.com