“Wait until you see how different it is. Only a fifteen minute drive over the border and yet the ambiance completely changes!” My friend Jennifer is not one to make casual promises, especially when food is concerned. Already, during our visit to Menton, she had delivered me to a bakery that had been voted the best in all of the South and South-West of France! Can you imagine? That is quite impressive – as was the pesto and tomato stuffed roll that I munched on with delight.
I had been secretly hoping that we would make it to the market at Ventimiglia as I have always enjoyed her various posts on the subject. Italy makes me dream. Shhh! Don’t tell Remi. But it does.
After several rainy days, the clouds were ripped away to reveal a blinding sky. It was the perfect benediction to “Go! Avanti!” And oh, the town itself! Sandwiched in between the snowy peaks of the Alps and a surfer-studded sea with frothy palms lining the boulevards? I believe that stunning is the proper word to describe the scene.
The indoor market was decked out for the holidays, even if many of the agricoltore were still home for Natale…
…and yet a distinctively low-key vibe whistled through the air. Yes, Jennifer was right–what a change from the bling of the Côte d’Azur! There was no hurry. Why hurry under such a sun?
Take time! Eat socca! So we did. I loved the people-watching. A lot of beautifully dressed women and men…
…who carefully eyed the goods at each stand, pinching and smelling as they went.
And yes, even though Ventimiglia is only a three hour drive from Arles, the items on offer were quite different. Such as these beautifully prepared artichokes…
…and mandarines gift-wrapped with the name of La Fortunella.
If I had been staying in the region longer I would have pounced on the little pre-made Minestrone packets and the tender zucchini’s with their delicate flowers! Sadly, we won’t see those in Provence for several months to come.
And of course there is mozzarella, the vera mozarella di buffala that has absolutely nothing to do with the rubbery softballs that I buy…
…not to mention the artisanal cured meats from Calabresi…
…or house-made pillowy panettoni (will someone explain to me why I didn’t buy this?).
I did finally cave for the parmesan that you see above and oh I wish that I had taken home more! Two absolutely giant wedges of 18 month old parmigiano reggiano (Jennifer helped choose them for me, she says that they should have a slightly sweet fragrance) were only a little over 10 Euros! Less than half the price in France, plus, the kind vendor gave me a little salame to boot. When does that happen at the market in Arles? Never, that’s when. She also put their card in with my purchases as she knew that I will be back. And I will. The cheese exceeded my expectations.
The flower section offered similarly surprising bargains. One Euro a stem for wild orchids? It began to be overwhelming…
So, purchases in hand, we dived back into the blue, strolling past the leather goods and cashmere vendors (I had to stop often to touch various sweaters and scarves but alas was “good”)…
…until Jennifer installed us on the terrace of a café. At the end of December! We finally had to move inside as I was getting sun-burned. Isn’t that something?
PS. A tip for the wise: when dining out with a vegetarian friend, if you are given a plate of focaccia and prosciutto for the aperitivo, well then that means prosciutto jackpot for you!
This wonderful afternoon left us both feeling very happy and more than a little hungry.
Ciao, ciao Ventimiglia! Arrividerci! Baci!
PS. I had to tune down the "brightness" levels on the outdoor photos for them to readable onscreen!!
Aaagh! It does? Oh my, I take responsibility for your not buying it. All of that "alcantara" business!
Welcome, Edgar. And travel -along with reading fine literature- has been the most important part of my education so far. Certainly THE most important as far as learning about our fellow man…
Don't forget that gas is five times more here–so that would be one expensive market trip! But worth it, especially to see Jenn. 🙂 And the food….yes, that Pandoro caught my eye too!
It's big but not too huge. Just right. And the socca we had would have tickled your palette as well!
*waving to Hawaii* Glad you liked it Bill!
I can't take credit for the smiley face–that was Jennifer's quick eye! But yes, it was such a fun day, I loved every minute of it. And don't worry I would be so happy to meet you that you could have ALL of the prosciutto!
By all means do, Gina. I love to help. And trust me, everything will be gorgeous in early October!!!
Eh oui! Just like today…
I would have taken home all the mozzarella plus the parmesan.