“Wait until you see how different it is. Only a fifteen minute drive over the border and yet the ambiance completely changes!” My friend Jennifer is not one to make casual promises, especially when food is concerned. Already, during our visit to Menton, she had delivered me to a bakery that had been voted the best in all of the South and South-West of France! Can you imagine? That is quite impressive – as was the pesto and tomato stuffed roll that I munched on with delight.
I had been secretly hoping that we would make it to the market at Ventimiglia as I have always enjoyed her various posts on the subject. Italy makes me dream. Shhh! Don’t tell Remi. But it does.
After several rainy days, the clouds were ripped away to reveal a blinding sky. It was the perfect benediction to “Go! Avanti!” And oh, the town itself! Sandwiched in between the snowy peaks of the Alps and a surfer-studded sea with frothy palms lining the boulevards? I believe that stunning is the proper word to describe the scene.
The indoor market was decked out for the holidays, even if many of the agricoltore were still home for Natale…
…and yet a distinctively low-key vibe whistled through the air. Yes, Jennifer was right–what a change from the bling of the Côte d’Azur! There was no hurry. Why hurry under such a sun?
Take time! Eat socca! So we did. I loved the people-watching. A lot of beautifully dressed women and men…
…who carefully eyed the goods at each stand, pinching and smelling as they went.
And yes, even though Ventimiglia is only a three hour drive from Arles, the items on offer were quite different. Such as these beautifully prepared artichokes…
…and mandarines gift-wrapped with the name of La Fortunella.
If I had been staying in the region longer I would have pounced on the little pre-made Minestrone packets and the tender zucchini’s with their delicate flowers! Sadly, we won’t see those in Provence for several months to come.
And of course there is mozzarella, the vera mozarella di buffala that has absolutely nothing to do with the rubbery softballs that I buy…
…not to mention the artisanal cured meats from Calabresi…
…or house-made pillowy panettoni (will someone explain to me why I didn’t buy this?).
I did finally cave for the parmesan that you see above and oh I wish that I had taken home more! Two absolutely giant wedges of 18 month old parmigiano reggiano (Jennifer helped choose them for me, she says that they should have a slightly sweet fragrance) were only a little over 10 Euros! Less than half the price in France, plus, the kind vendor gave me a little salame to boot. When does that happen at the market in Arles? Never, that’s when. She also put their card in with my purchases as she knew that I will be back. And I will. The cheese exceeded my expectations.
The flower section offered similarly surprising bargains. One Euro a stem for wild orchids? It began to be overwhelming…
So, purchases in hand, we dived back into the blue, strolling past the leather goods and cashmere vendors (I had to stop often to touch various sweaters and scarves but alas was “good”)…
…until Jennifer installed us on the terrace of a café. At the end of December! We finally had to move inside as I was getting sun-burned. Isn’t that something?
PS. A tip for the wise: when dining out with a vegetarian friend, if you are given a plate of focaccia and prosciutto for the aperitivo, well then that means prosciutto jackpot for you!
This wonderful afternoon left us both feeling very happy and more than a little hungry.
Ciao, ciao Ventimiglia! Arrividerci! Baci!
Hey! You came to Italy!!!
What a pleasure to visit Ventimiglia through your eyes. When living in Eze we would take the train there every other week to stock up on the wonderful produce, meats, cheeses and flowers. Such a treasure. You captured it beautifully.
You reminded me what a brilliantly clear and beautiful day it was after all that messy rain. It was a fun visit wasn't it? I should have bought that purse! It haunts me still. Next time…..
Ventimiglia feast for the eyes, palate, for everything. Different atmosphere and things but complimentary where one comes from. What delightful visit.The farewell with a hint of return.
Montaigne was right. Travel (if I can call your 3-hour drive, travel) to another country is an education. Although yours is really a visit to the neighborhood, it's still a beautiful way to study geography and all its accoutrements.
Thank you for the colorful photos.
Looks pretty darn good!That was a PANDORO on the left of the PANETTONE……..MY FAVORITE!You sprinkle the sugar packet on top and shake the bag so it covers the whole thing!How fun to be so close to the border……..perhaps you could get a small group say 3 woman one who drives to go down and do some shopping once every few months or so…………time would fly chit chatting, etc………….
Oh my! I love that market.
Wow! What a feast for the eyes … thank you, Heather, a beautiful post. Aloha
I loved reading about your italian adventure and seeing the photos of the food market. I don't know what it is, but seeing all the fresh produce at a market is ever so much more enticing and romantic even, than buying veggies and meat from a supermarket, where it is all under glaring white lighting and everything offered on polystyrene trays and wrapped in plastic cling wrap. I always buy so much more when I'm at a farmers' market, because it all looks so much more real and earthy. The vendor is also the grower and there is that connection, which is not possible at all when buying from a supermarche. This is a lovely post. It is brimming with produce, one can almost smell! I'm afraid if we were to meet for a coffee date, we would both be eyeing off the proscuitto, but we could also share a piece of the panettoni. Why did you leave that behind?
Love the smiley face! Very clever! Sounds like you had fun!
Cheers,
Deb C from Melbourne
Dear Heather, We are going in early October. We are not renting a boat for the canal. Only want to see a part of the canal before all of the trees are gone. In the meantime I will be following your posts. Thank you so much for your kind offer. I may want to contact you a little later in the year. ox, Gina
D-E-L-I-C-I-O-U-S! And so sunny still in December!