“Wait until you see how different it is. Only a fifteen minute drive over the border and yet the ambiance completely changes!” My friend Jennifer is not one to make casual promises, especially when food is concerned. Already, during our visit to Menton, she had delivered me to a bakery that had been voted the best in all of the South and South-West of France! Can you imagine? That is quite impressive – as was the pesto and tomato stuffed roll that I munched on with delight.
I had been secretly hoping that we would make it to the market at Ventimiglia as I have always enjoyed her various posts on the subject. Italy makes me dream. Shhh! Don’t tell Remi. But it does.
After several rainy days, the clouds were ripped away to reveal a blinding sky. It was the perfect benediction to “Go! Avanti!” And oh, the town itself! Sandwiched in between the snowy peaks of the Alps and a surfer-studded sea with frothy palms lining the boulevards? I believe that stunning is the proper word to describe the scene.
The indoor market was decked out for the holidays, even if many of the agricoltore were still home for Natale…
…and yet a distinctively low-key vibe whistled through the air. Yes, Jennifer was right–what a change from the bling of the Côte d’Azur! There was no hurry. Why hurry under such a sun?
Take time! Eat socca! So we did. I loved the people-watching. A lot of beautifully dressed women and men…
…who carefully eyed the goods at each stand, pinching and smelling as they went.
And yes, even though Ventimiglia is only a three hour drive from Arles, the items on offer were quite different. Such as these beautifully prepared artichokes…
…and mandarines gift-wrapped with the name of La Fortunella.
If I had been staying in the region longer I would have pounced on the little pre-made Minestrone packets and the tender zucchini’s with their delicate flowers! Sadly, we won’t see those in Provence for several months to come.
And of course there is mozzarella, the vera mozarella di buffala that has absolutely nothing to do with the rubbery softballs that I buy…
…not to mention the artisanal cured meats from Calabresi…
…or house-made pillowy panettoni (will someone explain to me why I didn’t buy this?).
I did finally cave for the parmesan that you see above and oh I wish that I had taken home more! Two absolutely giant wedges of 18 month old parmigiano reggiano (Jennifer helped choose them for me, she says that they should have a slightly sweet fragrance) were only a little over 10 Euros! Less than half the price in France, plus, the kind vendor gave me a little salame to boot. When does that happen at the market in Arles? Never, that’s when. She also put their card in with my purchases as she knew that I will be back. And I will. The cheese exceeded my expectations.
The flower section offered similarly surprising bargains. One Euro a stem for wild orchids? It began to be overwhelming…
So, purchases in hand, we dived back into the blue, strolling past the leather goods and cashmere vendors (I had to stop often to touch various sweaters and scarves but alas was “good”)…
…until Jennifer installed us on the terrace of a café. At the end of December! We finally had to move inside as I was getting sun-burned. Isn’t that something?
PS. A tip for the wise: when dining out with a vegetarian friend, if you are given a plate of focaccia and prosciutto for the aperitivo, well then that means prosciutto jackpot for you!
This wonderful afternoon left us both feeling very happy and more than a little hungry.
Ciao, ciao Ventimiglia! Arrividerci! Baci!
Not only are they stripped and ready to go but I am pretty sure that Jennifer said that they are also coated in olive oil…could that be possible? I wanted to just pop them all in my mouth right then and there.
Love a market – and I must say that not even the fanciest market nor Harrods food hall in London does prepared artichokes like that Heather!!! x
Really??? Oh Mumbai, I will admit it, I am so curious about where you are! Shame on me but I can't help it! But I am not surprised at all to know that you enjoyed that moment on the terrace. And yes, the women were so chic! I loved it…ahead of French fashion I have to say (shhh!). It was just all so lovely.
what a seductive post Heather. I like Italy very much too and spent my last holiday in Vence I went to Ventimiglia
for shopping. Food and clothes ..both well priced and tres chic. Yesterday I have seat also on a terrace in the
sun looking at the Med. Sea and the snowy Sierra. Life…as good as it get's.
Ooh good to know, Catherine! When we finally meet someday, I will be sure to invite you to a trattoria… 😉
Have a wonderful week as well…
Wow, Gina! Really??? That is going to be ONE AMAZING trip. When are you coming? Are you renting a boat for the Canal du Midi or taking a tour? If you want any suggestions for Arles beyond what you have already seen here, feel free to email me at robinsonheather (at) yahoo.com. And whew is Ventimiglia/Menton gorgeous. You won't be disappointed…Oh, I am so excited for you! 🙂
Isn't that amazing?? I see it in France too but not often such drastic changes in SUCH a short distance. Italy is fascinating. And Gillian? Everyone was nice to me, everyone.
I LOVE a market, Heather…I can smell the mandarins from here 🙂
Now, if you were sharing with me you would have hit the proscuitto jackpot too!
Have a good week xx
Dear Heather, Your first photograph stole my heart and also sealed the rest of the journey we are going to take beginning in Paris, the Canal du Midi, Arles and Ventimiglia and back to Paris. Thank you for taking us along on your journeys. It is almost like being there. ox, Gina
I am so happy to read about your happy jaunt in the Italian sunshine. It is amazing how different things can be in just a few kilometers. If I travel just an hour from Rome the types of pasta and their appropriate sauces all change. I can only imagine Ventimiglia would be like a foreign country to me 🙂