Yesterday was belle bleu bling of the rub your eyes in Loony Tunes disbelief variety. “Let’s go to Marseille,” Remi tossed out just as the coffee was kicking in. “Where did that come from?” I wondered. “We never go to Marseille.” Have you heard its reputation? If rumours were to be believed you could not cross the street without being blind-sided and mugged then trampled over by vagrants.
Now, you would think that with our travelling experience, we would know better than to listen to les préjugés défavorables. Alas, um, nope. I believed the hype. Me, who used to walk home past Show World in Time Square at 3AM with nary a wrinkle of fear.
So it was with triple delight that I opened up my eyes to a vibrant, fascinating city. And there was nothing random about it, Remi had a plan. He always does.
Our destination?
La Vieille Charité. Built in the 17th century, it was as an almshouse for the poor that, while sounding like a refuge, was essentially a prison for beggars not to mention a workhouse for children. In 1760, there were over one thousand residents. After the French Revolution, it was taken over by the homeless and fell into disrepair.
It was the influential Minister of Culture
André Malraux who spear-headed the movement to restore the facility to its former Baroque glory, a process which would take over sixteen years.
Today, the Vieille Charité is home to several museums and is a thriving cultural centre.
There is nothing like ART to shake away the sadness of the past now is there?
With the light ping-ponging off the warmed up stone, we felt nothing but light, happiness…
…and inspiration breaking through and through and through. How it does.
The absolute main reason for our visit was a last dash to see the exhibition “Vestiges” by famed Magnum photographer
Josef Koudelka. From 1991-2012 he voyaged across nineteen countries around the Mediterranean to document the remains of the Roman and Greek archeological sites.
The result of his journey is absolutely stunning. Remi and I were both left breathless.
Unfortunately, I couldn’t take any photos in the exhibition itself, so please enjoy by clicking
here to have an inkling. Gorgeous.
However, photography was allowed in the other temporary exhibition,
The Treasury of Marseille, which featured 29 relics from the Greek National Treasury that had never been seen outside of their home country as well as a gorgeous 3D representation of the original temple at Delphi in which they were housed.
Admittedly, I was less drawn to the delicate fragments than to the bolder ideas, the colors and fluidity of the son et lumière, the sound and lighting special effects of which the French are true specialists.
Whoever thought up having clouds blow across the roof of the chapel has my dear gratitude. I was transfixed…
…and left dreaming of what it was like to be an explorer then…
…and happy, very much so, to be an explorer now.
Both exhibitions are a part of Marseille-Provence 2013, where the city and the surrounding region (including Arles!) have been declared the European Capital of Culture. There is so much more to see and I will look forward to taking in all that I can and hopefully bringing you along for the ride…
Thank you, Lisa–hope everything is coming along well for you in Italy!!
Je suis completement d'accord Jérôme. And as a former NYer, I felt right at home and delighted to be a part of such a cosmopolitan mix…it felt really good actually! No racial tensions as no one had anything to prove…
Wow, that is a wonderful idea to reread "Count of Monte Cristo", Dianne. I just might do so myself…
You are too kind, dear Amelia. And actually Marseille was #2 on the NY Times list of "Must See Places for 2013"! So I am already behind in singing its praises…
il faudra revenir à Marseille au mois de juin pour l'ouverture du MuCEM – bonnes promenades dans les rues de Marseille (très belles photos de la Vieille Charité)
gorgeous gorgeous, I can see why you were transfixed! x
Marseille is a wonderfull city, full of life and energy.
Of course a bit violent but as France went almost "on flames" with riots in every bigger cities, Marseille was the only one which stayed calm. There is really a feeling from all the Marseillais to belong to their city, enfants de la Bonne Mère!
Light ping-ponging off warmed stone …. I love it! I've just started my second read of "Count of Monte Cristo" set in this vibrant city so have loved seeing your pics giving us a glimpse into the world of Edmond Dantes and Monsieur Morrel.
The travel writer extraordinaire. 🙂 With your pen and camera, there's no telling… Marseille will become the new "it" destination for the South of France. The building is beautiful, love the architecture, considering its original purpose as an almshouse. And love the pictures from the exhibition.
xx Amelia
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