Down below my window, a band of children are chanting “Fous le camp! Fous le camp!” with the snaps of firecrackers to punctuate their disenchantment. Get the h*ll out of here, indeed. Earlier, an older group of adolescents let out several rounds of a brouhaaaahaaa howl that ended up sounding more like a Ho Ho Ho from Santa. You see, Halloween doesn’t come easily to the French. It isn’t their holiday.
For here, it is not tonight that matters but tomorrow, La Toussaint, which is both All Saint’s Day…
…and All Soul’s Day. So while there are special services in the Catholic churches, it is also one of the most important days of the year for families to come together. They will honor those that have come before them…
…and as chrysanthemums are at their fullest, they are the traditional flowers to take to the cemetery, where the plots will be cleaned and prayers said. It is a solemn moment, devoid of the bright vivacity of Dia de los Muertos. Over the past few days, I have seen the streets fuller than usual with family members walking and whispering, weighed by what is said and unsaid. The sky has been blue with black clouds lowering, giving my stomach a bit of a twist save for that early evening when I went to the Arena with Ben to watch the full moon rise and rise until my fingers were numb with the cold. I always feel something unnameable during this time, whether it is the ancestors passing down or just a sense of collective reflection, I don’t know.
Well, it looks as if I spoke too soon as my post was to end there. But amidst my concentrated typing, click click click, the burrr of our buzzer gave me a start and produced a sharp bark from Ben. I discerned giggles of anticipation in the street. Luckily, Remi and I had just returned from the grocery store, where at the last moment, I had grabbed a package of a certain American candy bar, something in me hoping…”just in case.” You see, Halloween has always been one of my very favorite holidays, one where anyone and everyone is entirely encouraged to think outside the box, to be creative to let their freak flag fly.
I must say I was underwhelmed with the costume effort. Some plastic capes, an ersatz wig–but was that ever the point? And no, it is not their holiday but perhaps they are trying to make it so. For one of the polite little witches promptly handed me an envelope while I was giving out the goods. “C’est pour vous,” she said simply. And then they were gone.
Happy Halloween to those of you that are celebrating. And more importantly, continued good wishes of strength and support to all that have been touched by Hurricane Sandy’s passing. Thank you so very much to those that reassured me of your well-being during the past 24 hours, it is much appreciated.
Thank you so very much Elizabeth. My plus proches are all in Michigan now and it seems like everyone else is fine!
A piece of light blue paper with "Happy Halloween" written in the same fancy script in yellow–very much to the point, non?
Oh how I have learned to see the same experience on the other side of the world through your eyes and perspective! It is amazing really. For once a truly "Happy" Halloween! Who could have guessed?
John's thought made me laugh for my bunch were the same. And yes, written in English and spoken in French–either the envelope was prepared as part of an English class project or that is an Anglophonism here–I can't imagine anyone saying: "joyeuse Halloween"–for as I wrote, it is not the most joyful of weekends…
xo!
I had the biggest treat today–a complete surprise–I'll tell you about it soon. I am set for treats for the rest of the year! 🙂
And I have thought a few times today about the image of the cemeteries lit with candles. So very beautiful and moving, to offer light for the souls to find their way home…
Wishing you both lots of warmth and fine company during this pivotal period of the year. I know you will not go wanting…
Gros bisous,
H
Six?! Six!! I had to read that twice!!! Whew!!!
Heather, like everything "transplanted", who knows this may flowered into a beautiful hybrid, with that unique France flavor we all love. The envelope is pretty intriguing. Inquiring mind, you know…:) "Fous le camp", does that mean "get out of here" or "leave"? My France is so basic, it's sad..:) At 9:00 pm last night, the 5 bags of leftover M&Ms, Snickers, Butterfingers, Nerds, Almond Joys were left on the doorsteps with a note. "Take as much as you want". This morning the doorsteps were all cleared not even a plastic bag in sight. Do France kids eat this type of candies? What do they get when trick or treating? Another inquiring mind question for you…:) Happy Late Halloween!
Amelia
Heather, you have a gift for pulling these disparate elements together in such a singular way! I'm trying to put my finger on what it is that happens with your posts and I think it's a little like this. You write these at a certain point in time. You post them. Whenever I come to have a look, it's like they spring to life and are happening 'in real time' for me as I experience them. There is an atemporal quality about your word and image braids, like a swirling hologram that pops to color when I open the music box.
That is how you are.
Happy Halloween Heather!! I have been caught out last year and the year before as we are in a new area and didn't expect kids to come find us!!
But this year I was prepared – bought some 'Flakes' and 'Cherry Ripe' mini bars and I'm not sure who was more excited – the kids that came knocking or me!!
Good Trick or Treating!! Cheers!!
Waiting now for those munchkins………..!Rain any moment so it willnot be the HALLOWEEN we hoped for!Your photos are OUTSTANDING!XXX
Your photographs perfectly convey the mood of a Halloween evening. Beautiful, yet haunting. Interesting exchange with the little witch. I am sure the children appreciated the Snickers candy; who wouldn't? I trust Ben wasn't too badly frightened by the little spookers. Goodbye beautiful October; welcome November, the month of my favorite holiday!