While some fine ladies are willing to take the TGV for hours in order to fill a craving for truly Parisian pastries, I found myself seeking a change of season and was ready to go to equally great lengths to get it. Luckily, Remi had a similar idea brewing. We both were in need of snow.
As wonderful as Provence is, it can be, well, a bit monochromatic with its skies that are forever blue. I grew up mainly in the Midwest, where each period of the year is marked by wildly different weather. Sweat would drip from the back of my knees as I scampered away from a summer bound dodge ball just as the winter wind would whip up tears that froze on my cheeks. I loved it all and miss that excitement of change.
We piled into the Range Rover with Ben in the back as well as enough clothing and supplies to last us for a few days. And yet we weren’t going far. Our base was the town of Sisteron, only a little more than a two hours drive from Arles. I never tire that in France you can shift your landscape so easily.
I have written quite a lot about the Luberon, most recently in my one too many posts on the questionably cute or not cute village of Loumarin. But we were headed beyond the Peter Mayle zone to the Alpes-de-Haut-Provence, an area relatively unvisited save by Provençals heading to one of the local ski slopes or motorcyclists cruising the Napoleon Road.
We fretted as we drove north. The ground was dry until Gap. Was our search in vain? As we turned up the long hill to the Abbaye de Boscodon, smiles spread slowly across our faces. The higher we climbed, the deeper the snowfall. Success! Ben, our Golden, had never experienced more than a mere dusting and so did not quite know to make of such snow but soon enough he was bouncing like a bunny and shaking every stick he could find with ferocious glee.
We had climbed to 1150 meters in altitude in a rather short period of time and I felt slightly dizzy and out of breath. The silence was so total that I could hear my blood pounding in my ears like waves in a seashell. I was filled with wonder at all around me, from the strange sight of mistletoe that had grafted itself onto a pine tree, to the comforting trickle of a stream in a gorge dangerously deep below.
We crossed fields where there were no other footprints but our own and I took care to put my feet in Remi’s tracks, to leave as little trace of my passing as possible.
How utterly drained of color the world seemed to be. And yet not in the least of joy. I couldn’t stop smiling. The cold makes me feel so alive.
Quiet voices echoed on the other side of the monastery walls. Incredible to think that the first monks arrived at the Abbey in 1142 (and that when it was returned to the church in 1972, its magnificent chapel was being used as a stable). Today the Abbey is renowned for its mixité, an openness towards multiple religious congregations. The pine covered mountains wrap around the buildings like a blanket. It is a perfect setting for contemplation. To go inwards. I felt myself doing the same and looked forward to what discoveries the next few days would bring…Can you feel the quiet?
We had an excellent time and I will be spreading the results of my visit out (again!) over a few posts as I think that it is an opportunity to show a side of Provence that so few people get to see.
And as a completely, utterly unrelated postscript (as I know that many of you are fellow dog-lovers), I would highly recommend the article in on the New York Time’s website: Wonder Dog about dogs that are being trained for placement with children that have special needs. The article is long but very worthwhile as is the accompanying short video.
You too! 🙂
Hmm, hoping everything is alright with you Elizabeth! I know that I need to get caught up on your blog as well. Several days away and I miss so much! Thank you as always for your kind words…
Beautiful! I heard an idea at Jewel Heart tonight about making everyday things spiritual; there is so much spirituality in your posts! Not that these are "everyday" things (it's Provence, after all!), but you give us the reminder to see the beauty that's all around us. Thank you for that reminder!!
I can't even decide which of these beautiful pics is my favorite!! (well, ok – Ben with velvet painting eyes).
OMG – how wonderful is this scenery Heather – I remember seeing the mountains on the map as we chooffled along the roads but we didn't have time to go – so you have now gone some distance to satisfying the need to see!!! Wow!! Thanks!!
You do get around!Love all the snaps and especially the photo of BEN laying in the snow!We here in California are in desperate need of snow this year.Its just not coming.How are you enjoying that new camera?Takes beautiful photos!
xoxo
Lovely – thank you so much for sharing! Enjoy your weekend.
P.S. Fabulous images – as usual. XXX
Thank you for taking me on this wonderful journey. You are a great wordsmith. I too love the seasons – they make me feel alive. It is years sine I've been to the snow, ( my skis have gone to heaven), but I can still recall the magic of its ethereal silence. Such beauty. Bisous
P.S. Apologies for not visiting sooner – I've been away from the blogsphere.
Thank you so much Laura, wishing you an excellent weekend!
What a wonderful trip! The photos are so inviting, and yes, you can feel the quiet.
Something about snow that is always purifying and renewing for the spirit. Ben looked happy and oh so adorable! Thanks for sharing this winter experience.