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The pursuit of happiness

It was a perfect day and so we did what anyone would do, we went on another picnic. Actually, it would appear that picnic season has officially begun as I am getting swifter at packing the two china plates, the silver wrapped in napkins. I carefully tuck in the wine and glasses and then select an array of charcuterie and cheeses. This is good time food.
It is why we go. For here we are too noise-filled, too hemmed in. In the country – and specifically in the shadows of a cabanon that makes us dream – we find peace. And in that peace, happiness. 
It is something that I have been thinking of lately – yes, again – the fleeting aspect of that particular  bluebird and yet how so often we assume it is our right for her to flutter around us, keeping us company, permanently. No, I see that it doesn’t work like that – just as it is useless to chase after that other fickle feathered friend, Youth – the less I demand it, the more it arrives. I do love those rare moments when I can feel everything fold into itself and I am in it, knowing how very good it is. It can be as simple as Remi throwing a stick to Ben and Kipling in the distance. In my watching then seeing, I know. 
I would like to share with you two quotes and a bit of poetry…

“But as I try and understand how life works – and why some people cope better than others with adversity – I keep coming back to something to do with saying yes to life, which is love of life, however inadequate, and love for the self, however found. Not in the me-first way that is the opposite of life and love, but with a salmon-like determination to swim upstream, however choppy upstream is, because this is your stream…What the Americans, in their constitution, call the ‘right to the pursuit of happiness’ (please note, not ‘the right to happiness’) is the right to swim upstream salmon-wise.” 
-Jeanette Winterson, from her quietly amazing and very poignant memoir, “Why Be Happy When You Could Be Normal?”
“Pursuing happiness, and I did, and I still do, is not at all the same as being happy – which I think is fleeting, dependent on circumstances, and a bit bovine.
If the sun is shining, stand in it – yes, yes, yes. Happy times are great, but happy times pass – they have to – because time passes.
The pursuit of happiness is more elusive; it is life-long, and it is not goal-centered.
What you are pursuing is meaning – a meaningful life.”
-Jeanette Winterson, “Why Be Happy When You Can Be Normal?”
“i thank you God for this most amazing 
day: for the leaping greenly spirits of the trees 
and a blue true dream of sky; and for everything
which is natural, which is infinite, which is yes.”
– e.e. cummings

I hope that your spring is full of good things growing.

And that they are not passing at such speed that you don’t see them.

Or if the buds haven’t bloomed yet, know that you planted the seeds long ago.
They will.

Just find the footpath, no matter how buried it might seem to be…and stay on it.

Have a wonderful week everyone…more on the Fondation Vincent Van Gogh soon…

Colors for Vincent

As with the other residents of this fine old town, I am eagerly awaiting the inauguration of the Fondation Vincent Van Gogh Arles tomorrow. It has been many months in the making with a thorough renovation of a 15th century hôtel particulier just down the street from where I live. Much banging has been accompanied by a fair shake of rat a tat tat. Something tells me Vincent would have approved. 
Certainly he would be delighted that at last his work is being appreciated and shown in a town he loved so dearly (until now there has been only one Van Gogh in all of Provence, in a private collection in Avignon). There is much mystery about his time here and quite a few myths to be pierced as well. But for me, what is certain, is that he took something as intangible to paint as the Mistral winds that blow and caught them by the tail. The light? He coaxed and wheedled until it was eating out of his hand like the swallows that criss-cross overhead. 
We see what we want to see and certainly Vincent stuck to his lonely path until the end. And now we have the remnants of his scattered moments of happiness, his brazen unknown success, to gaze upon and understand what is our Provence.

I’ll leave you with some of his colors – albeit modern and worn – found on one walk through the centre historique, not far from his Yellow House. 
Have a lovely weekend and I will report back after the opening in a few days…

Ten things to take on a cruise – for By Invitation Only

“C’est un poisson d’avril?” you might be wondering. “Are you really following up a week of talking about right wing politics, Humanity and Death (in the comments section no less) with…a cruise?” I am, dear friends. Call it an antidote if you wish but I also made a promise to the lovely Marsha at Splenderosa, who is the founder of the By Invitation Only International series, that I would stick to the theme…for once, since it seems that…um…I am not always so great about that. This month’s theme is, as the title of this post infers, “10 things to take on a cruise.” So here we go…
©Remi Benali


Heather’s List of Ten Things to Take on a Cruise

1) Flexibility. Perhaps you have flown for days (literally) only to arrive at your tropical destination and find that…it is raining. Hard. Or let’s say the boat, your home away from home and mode of transportation, is not all that you had desired. Perhaps you will have to travel up the Maroni River in the French Amazon for days on end with the sun beating down mercilessly on your head which is already weary from the endless mosquito whine of the straining outboard motor. You know what? It’s all good. It’s just another part of the story and you have gone on the cruise to write a new chapter to your story, n’est-ce pas?

2) Patience. Not everyone is on the same time schedule and time is one of those oddly relevant and irrelevant things while traveling, isn’t it? So perhaps you will have to wait many hours while the afore-mentioned motor is being repaired or several days floating in a prism of heat on the Niger River until you meet up with your rendez-vous. All the better to let the scenery imprint itself on your mind until the end of your days. And those stars at night that burn so bright will remind you how silly your rushing to and fro actually is.

3) Reading, writing and research. But still, even the most zen of us can use a little outward inspiration and inward exhalation. So make sure that you have plenty of good words around you, both those by others and those which you will slowly scrawl on a page until you remember what it is like not to type. And why not do your homework and bring it with you? If you understand, really understand, what you are seeing, it will mean so much more to you than, “Oh…that is…pretty.” Not to mention, it is just the smart way to travel when on excursions onshore. For example, while everyone else is at Angkor Wat in Siem Reap for sunrise, pushed into sardine-like groups to capture that rising burning ball, you will be at the Bayon, alone save for the wizened Buddhist nun who is the attendant. She will nod at you as she lights her offerings and the moment will be pure magic.

4) Protection. Let’s face it, even on a cruise, it can be a jungle out there, so be prepared. It goes without saying that your skin is going to take a beating so please apply the SPF liberally and often. If you happen to be in a boat that is low lying to the water (as opposed to those jumbotrons that are destroying the canals in Venice – oops – did I say that? Moving swiftly on), keep in mind that you won’t be able to hide from the sun’s reflection, even under a big floppy hat. The brown spots on the back of my hands said that they are warning you. I have been known to snorkel in a long sleeved shirt to protect my bright white skin. And your eyes? I don’t care if you just bought the newest Prada with rotating crystal flowers on the sides, leave them home and get serious lenses with old-school filters. Pretty please? And additionally, have a photo copy of your passport and credit cards (not in your wallet) just in case…

5) The goods. Ok, so we are deep into the non-fun part of the list but truly? Do you want to spend your precious days groaning in your stateroom clutching your belly in pain? Think how far most of the food has had to travel to be prepared on even the finest of ships. Accidents happen. Plus, of course there is the whole panoply of other “must haves”: dramamine, mosquito spray, anti-malarial meds if you are in that type of zone, anti-bacterial gel…actually, just see the amazing Slim Paley’s list here. Oh and a pair of shower shoes. Because if, after two weeks of having gone without a shower, you arrive in Timbuktu only to find that yours is lined with thirty giant cockroaches, you are going to need them.

©Remi Benali

6) Portable elegance. On that note, there are times when you might need a little pick me up. We all have ours. Mine is without a doubt my beaten but still true Hermès scarf. And red lipstick. Without fail. Even if it has gotten me some strange looks in certain countries. Silver jewelry is also a favorite but why not leave yours at home and buy some where you are? You will be helping out local artisans and giving each piece a special memory as you do so.

7) Kindness. A little goes a long, long way and I can promise you that it will not be forgotten.

8) Simplicity. Even when on a fabulous yacht in Bora Bora, I’m not a fan of excessive embellishment. A happy glow will do most of the work and if the world’s top designers keep their Cruise wear lines simple, it is for a reason. As much as I live in black, it is just weird on a boat (unless there is a funeral at sea) so I like to keep it light. I live in my white cotton shirts and khaki capris, wide-legged linen pants and long skirts that roll up in the suitcase. They dress up or down. I have a pareo that Remi brought back from Ethiopia that is the perfect weight to work as either a cover up or a scarf. Oh and always, a clean outfit (protected in its own plastic bag) to wear home on the plane.

9) A camera. Now, I realize that in our Instagram world (hey, I have given in to it too, you can find me at @lostinarles), this can be a catch-22. How amazing to seal memories onto a disk (and then print them out into albums or books), how sad to spend so much time snapping away that you ignore your partner and the bliss of the moment. À vous de juger…



And most importantly…

10) A clear mindset: stay open, be ready for adventure and have a sense of humor about it all!

Et voila! Wow, that was fun to write. Those of you who have been reading for a long time are no doubt very surprised at seeing so many photos of me, more than in the nearly four years of blogging combined. And trust me, it will never happen again. But oh, these are all so old, some more than ten years (!), that it made me happy to revisit wide-eyed young ‘un me. Hi you! Those truly were such incredible life experiences. 
I have already mentioned the cruise in Bora Bora for my first post in BIO, you can see it here. 
I wrote about our trip up the Maroni River here. 
Both of our journeys on the Niger River in Mali and on the Mekong in both Vietnam and Cambodia were truly epic and are stories for another time…
Toujours l’envie pour l’aventure? To read all of this month’s contributions to By Invitation Only, please stop by Splenderosa by clicking here.
I would like to extend a special welcome to two friends that have just become members of this fine group, Jeanne McKay at i dream of and the charming La Contessa of Vintage Hen House!

Two of the photos are used with permission and copyrighted by my companion, Remi Benali, so please do not use nor share on any social media such as Pinterest. Merci!

Happy trails…
PS…Oh! Don’t sail off just yet as I have a favor to ask. Remi’s story in National Geographic in the April  2014 issue is now out on newsstands worldwide. For those of you in non-English speaking countries, would you be willing to email me a photo of the opening page at ro*************@ya***.com? It is just for us, just for fun and we would be so grateful…

Remi’s musical suggestion for this post, perfect for traveling:

Comfort in comfort

I don’t usually post on Sunday nor do I do two foodie stories in the same week…but then again…this isn’t any ordinary Sunday. So while I prepare the long wait until 8pm when the election results start rolling in, I am taking comfort in comfort, wherever I can. 
My grocery store roses help, even if they are bruised and fading fast. I still love their leathery petals and spindly form that pulls me into the gateway of a labyrinth with a simple gaze.

And of course, there is food. I have been cooking even more than usual, if that is possible. Actually, it isn’t, so I will add that I have been putting a little more thought into what goes in the pan and onto the plate as I need an extra outlet for the brimming anxiety within.
First up, for those of you that might be pondering your Sunday brunch, a funky mixture that worked well. I have the fantastic Deb Perleman at Smitten Kitchen to thank for both the “just put it in a bowl” and the “everything tastes better with a fried egg on top” concepts which are fun to play around with. Here, the bottom layer is shredded zucchini sauteed in cumin and crushed cherry tomatoes, then perfectly ripe Haas avocados were spliced around the sides, topped with eggy and crumbled feta and there you go. I will be making this again.
Have you already eaten? Europe just finally swung around to the time change last night (I know, I don’t understand why we can’t just do it all on the same day either), so depending where you are, that is entirely possible. All right then, well, if comfort is what is called for, there is nothing that fits the bill better than this dish, a riff from the most amazing Patricia Well’s “The Provence Cookbook” which has been sleeping up on the top shelf for far too long. 
Get out your trusty Creuset (or any deep iron casserole dish) then brown chicken legs on each side and remove with thongs so as not to pierce the skin (p.s. France, you may be in crazy politics mode, but I love you for providing chicken fermier or straight from the producer so readily). As they are in season, sauté some sliced spring onions until tender and then replace the chicken, add two cups of white wine (or less if you are not as greedy about sauce as I am), add olives (I happened to have some that are stuffed with chorizo on hand and I have to say that it added mucho gusto), more of those perky cherry tomatoes, additional spring onions and sliced lemons on top. Cover and cook over lowish heat for about an hour until done. This has to be the easiest and yet most rewarding dish I have made in forever. Don’t go by the mi-cooked crappy iphone photo, just trust me. 
And since we know by now that roasted cabbage is actually vegetable bacon, why not make some? Along with eggplants roasted with a little olive oil and a delightfully wacky product that is a mashup of Tabasco and teriyaki sauces plus some strips of whatever fish you have on hand (I used leftovers of Remi’s excellent trout), voila, another healthy stack in a bowl idea. P.s. I also made a lemon tahini vinaigrette for this but it doesn’t really need it so if you are feeling lazy, like a true Food E, then skip it.
So there we are. I am currently roasting asparagus (two huge bunches for only 4.50€ at the market yesterday) to surprise Remi with a salmon benedict for when he comes back from voting…
…for something tells me that I am not the only one that is going to need to take comfort in comfort today.
So I will leave you with this absolutely gorgeous version of one of my very favorite songs in the whole wide world…turn it up and calm down…
…and sigh it with me now, “Ommm“…
…”Shanti, shanti, peace, peace, peace.”

Contrasts in Provence

Hello there. Just to give you a head’s up, today’s post is also on the current political situation in France regarding the rise of the extreme right Front National party in the municipal elections that will have their final round of voting this Sunday. I realize that this is not everyone’s cup of tea, so feel free to come back next week (although I am not planning a political post for Friday but who knows). This blog is about all of the things that are of meaning to me and this subject most certainly qualifies. I was incredibly moved by the courageous and heartfelt response by my friend Silke, who is German, to my previous post. I think that it is important to share what she has to say and with her permission have reprinted it below:

“Dear Heather, I am so busy right now I hardly find the time to write a sentence on your blog!

And yes, me too I am in rage, I am sad, speechless and badly disappointed of my dear French neighbours!

Especially as I am German and EVERYBODY knows the German History and the History of the Second World War. And therefore everybody SHOULD really know certain relations of the FN contents and the German National Socialism Party during the Second World War!

This is not “just” politics this is about about avoiding a human catastrophy. And trust me, this is not just another Hollywood Production, this is real life. And the latter is sometimes not funny in France for people who think different.

As a German it was a weird feeling to have extreme right wing advertising in the mailbox on a daily basis when we were in Arles!

Also, La Provence is not only “belle” it was also one of the centers of “La Résistance” (against German atrocities) during the Second World War who’s leader was Jean Moulin.
The beautiful “Alpilles” that we were so happy so see on this blog are crossed by a road called “Route de la Liberté” because Jean Moulin took a shelter there for one night. Every third beach on the Côte Azur is called: “Plage du Débarquemet”! On those beaches landed the Allies to free Europe from the horrors of the National Socialism.
Yes, in the South of France they are proud of their Résistance and for good reasons. But that does not stop them to vote for a party that is Anti-Semitic, Racist and Homophobic! France has a lot of problems but they won’t get solved with the FN.

Of course one cannot completely compare the time of the German National Socialism with the FN Party in France. But there are obvious tendencies and similarites in their “values”. And their gains of power with a program that is based on Anti-Semitism and Racism is already a political catastrophy.

And the politics of Racism concerns us all wether live in America, Europe, Australia etc, whether we are interested in politics or not, we should be interested in Humanity!

To say something positive finally, the responsables of the Avignon Festival will resist and cancel the whole Festival under a FN Government!”

Personally, I don’t feel that Silke is exaggerating. It was only while in the midst of preparing these photos that I noticed the swastika on the right hand side of the image above. 

And so while I see everyday…

…that there is beauty great and small…

…and a living scale of time here in Provence…

…there are also barriers to come up against and – hopefully – breathe through.

There is the landscape that the tourists see…

…graced with goodness…

…and a splendid solidity…

…but there are also the contrasts of the human kind, stark and striking…

…from a history not always seen straight on but peeked at sideways or dismissed with a nod.
From the outside in, we don’t always know all…

…and there are many who turn a blind eye to the challenges in front of them…

…just as they can walk by our living monuments without seeing them anymore.
These contrasts are woven together in a pattern so complex that it can be tough to unravel and they scratch up against each other, side by side by side. At least that is how I feel after having lived in the South of France for nearly ten years. I agree with Silke. This is not about politics, it is about Humanity. In our own way, we each make a difference in shaping the future. Eyes open, hearts wide.
Thank you for reading and for your respectful consideration of all that is presented here…
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