Rack and ruin, part two

While this is not an “almost” it is a house that I have thought of since having seen it during one of our trips to the safari tent. How she is begging to be loved and how rightfully she deserves such attentions.

I love the proportions, so similar to those lopsided crayon drawings of what a house could be from our youth.

And yet there are elegant touches, such as this wrought iron railing…
…and a trellis hanging abundant with vines despite relying solely on self-care for who knows how long.

At the base of the house, a fountain of cool spring water pours continuously…
…an echo of the brook that hiccups unabashedly…

…while bringing a jewel-toned garden to life.
And while there are many homes in this tiny village that stand waiting…
…and I am reassured by the treatment of a Front National poster…

…that perhaps a foreigner like myself would be welcome…

…to find my way amidst these winding back roads to something like home…
…for now I will simply sit and dream. 
In my mind, I will strip the walls of the scarred stucco and replace it with a slick of lime-wash instead. I can sand the wood, condition it and paint it something simple, pure white perhaps, for this would be a happy house. And finally I would open up the windows, sweep the floors and let in the mountain air to kiss it clean.
Do you see what I see?

PS. I am finally (!) switching to Mail Chimp for delivery of email subscriptions starting with this post. I hope that you will bear with me while I iron out any technical glitches. Once this is taken care of, I can focus on more important things…like writing and photography! Thanks for your understanding…

Sticks and stones

While I was walking through the forest above L’Isle sur la Sorgue, I couldn’t stop seeing lines. There were forms in the trees and the underbrush and they seemed to be pointing me in several directions all at once. I was thinking about friendship.

I have written before that it can be lonely at times living overseas – “can” being the operative word here  and “challenging” being a far more satisfying word then maudlin “lonely.” But there are moments,  increasingly with age, where I just want to be understood. A line drawn with a strong hand that doesn’t need to be interpreted.

Now don’t get me wrong. I knew what, or who, to be more precise, I was signing up for when I came on board for this adventure and it has been a marvelous one. Plus, I am giddy to announce that I will be heading back to the States at the end of the month for a long-overdue visit. My Mom has promised me that I will be “spoiled” and by that she is not referring to goods, although there will be that too. She understands.

Our virtual world can be so incredibly giving, glowing in generosity. So many voices that reach out tendril like towards mine and mine back to them. Sinewy yet delicate. I am quite honored to have been chosen by my friend Jeanne at Collage of Life to participate in a writerly blog tour for example, more of that next Monday. The world is our oyster and a love for similar beauties are often the uniting cord.

But I have learned that there are no commitments in virtual friendships either. People disappear, connections end. At times, even the most hardy of us need a mirror to reflect back our image but if that mirror is virtual, what do we do?

 It must be then that the lines that I cross are one’s that I draw in the dirt myself, my own boundaries that move about with the fluidity of the light darting through the trees. Just as the sticks and stones of our daily life are ours to drop and snap in two. Especially those that we use against ourselves.

I feel imminently grateful to be a part of a world-wide community. I look in amazement at the Visitor Tracker on the sidebar and see “South Africa” “Tokyo” and “Ohio” flip up one after the next. But as I followed those lines in the forest…and kept coming up against the same patterns…

returning to the exact same forms unconsciously…
I followed the path back to me. 
It may seem so obvious but how often I forget the importance of being strong in a community of one.

Sous le Mount Ventoux


The air is hot and is shaking my hand, pumping it like a madman. And yet I hesitate before taking shelter, sweetened by the prospect of a wide-open view.

A little shade gives respite despite the whistling that sings in my ears…

…with the clarity of the church bell ringing from Crillon-le-Brave.
I sit in the dust under an unripe fig tree, knowing that the wasps have yet to mate in their magic…
…and let my vision be torn between the insisting cypresses pointing heavenwards…
…and the light shorn details pulling down…
…to settle in this in-between where the olive trees whip in the winds that circle hawk-like under the Mount Ventoux. It strips me back to the bone – this beauty, this softened wilderness, kind.

Classical beauty, Roman patina

How I do love having a museum to myself. So when Remi asked me if I could be his assistant for a technically challenging photo shoot at the Musée départemental Arles Antique on Tuesday, I immediately said yes. It wasn’t the first time. I had already spent seven hours there – at night! – while Remi was shooting his story on the Roman Boat for National Geographic Magazine. But this was even more to my liking as he would be focusing on one of my favorites of the art world…Roman mosaics. 
I remember having been fascinated by the wonderful collection at the Brooklyn Museum as a young woman. How could these ancient tiles still hold such color and wonder? How could each tiny piece be put together to make such a magnificent whole? I went back to visit them again and again. They were a direct key to a distant and unknowable past.
Arles is nothing but layers of history. Scratch below the surface and who knows what you might find? Such was the case when the foundations of an entire Roman villa where uncovered across the Rhone River in the Trinquetaille neighborhood. The extensive and largely intact mosaic flooring is the basis for the MDAA’s extraordinary collection, one of the finest in France. The museum is also home to a laboratory of experts in mosaic renovation that was formed in a partnership with the Louvre.
But their offices were quiet and only the occasional ‘beep’ of a roaming security guards walkie-talkie echoed in the background, one met in response by the ‘pop’ of Remi’s flashes lighting up these slivers of time. Such true patina, well-worn and deserved, what fine classical beauty.

Medusa, not a Classical Beauty

The day flew by quickly and was a success. We packed up Remi’s extensive studio equipment and then I ducked under the barriers one last time, basking in the opportunity to be so close to something so far away…

There is incredible patina in the museum’s ancient stones as well but that is a story for another time.

An important note: As with several other of my blogging friends, I am having trouble with my email subscriptions. Feedburner, the service that I have been using since the beginning, began swallowing up addresses while I was out of town. I do realize that this is something of a “what is the sound of one hand clapping?” type of situation but if you have not been receiving email notifications for Lost in Arles, I apologize. Hopefully, I will have moved to a new service by the beginning of next week. In the meantime, thank you in advance for your patience if there are a few glitches on the way…

Happy May Day! 

Peaceful Mazet rental outside of L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Vaucluse

 

For once, I am the one that uncovered le bijou, something that is usually Remi’s specialty.

I had actually seen the ad for a mazet rental in the Vaucluse region a few years ago. It promised “tranquilité absolue” or absolute tranquility, something that definitely peaked my interest. But then we discovered Simiane la Rotonde and never looked back. Alas, our cabanon there had already been booked for Easter and for various reasons (including not having 100% faith in our ancient Saab) we didn’t want to travel too far from home. And so I dug through my files and had a pleasing “Ah-ha” moment when I came upon the mazet again, hidden in a forest and yet close to all. It was available and I knew immediately upon arriving that we had discovered a true find.

The late afternoon light played in the trees and through the hills rolling out in front of us. Besides the owner’s house – set a fair distance a part from the mazet – we could see nothing but forest and sky. No roads, no cars, no electric cables. Nothing. The wind whispered “Welcome.” The birds agreed.

Was I ready to drop into the world’s most comfortable loungers for a nap? Most certainly and soon…

 Patsy, the owner’s young and sprightly female, stopped by and immediately had Ben and Kipling under her thrall. Even before I stepped across the threshold, I knew that we would be good here, more than good.

While the mazet is only 45 square meters large, the owner’s wife explained to me that they built it little by little, “the traditional way, how the shepherd’s used to” so that no space would be wasted and only what was needed, as it was needed, would be added on.

The kitchen was, without a doubt, the best stocked of all of the rentals that we have seen so far. I could have cooked up a storm…and occasionally, when I could shake myself from the throes of vacationitis, I did.
How I appreciated that there are windows everywhere…
…all the better to keep an eye on what certain creatures were up to outside.
There is a television and DVD player that went virtually untouched, as well as a portable radio that let in crackly classical music after the bird’s symphony had calmed for the evening.
Even at the end of April, we were grateful for the really efficient pôele or wood-burning stove, especially during the rainy days. The classical music played then too.
That we all felt right at home was obvious…

…and I slept well in the small but comfortable bedroom. I would look forward to the moment each morning when I could pull back the curtain to find out what the day had in store.
The bathroom was perfectly clean with a large, steaming shower that was a spa miracle in comparison to our current minuscule sprinkler.

The old pine farm table was quickly covered with stacks of reading material after this photo was taken. I loved the hours that Remi and I spent across from each other, heads bent in taking in the new.
But truly, outside is the place to be…

…as we discovered immediately our first evening at the apéro, when were given a large basket of the freshest strawberries I had tasted this year.
The view and their sweetness worked well together. 
A path leads towards the owner’s house, where under an elegant stone archway…

…lies a pool that the renters of the mazet are invited to use. At 17° C it was still too cold for us, although a certain furry being dipped in his front paws and was stopped from performing a full belly flop just in the nick of time…
In July and August, the owners move into the mazet and rent out their home (with the pool). It sprawls out over several levels and is a perfect example of the atypical architecture found in this part of Provence.

They built both the home and the mazet themselves. The project has been a long one…
…and is still going on as they feel that there are always improvements to be made.
Both houses can be found at the end of a private, one kilometer long dirt track that guarantees the privacy that we so craved.
I have never experienced such quiet in France and never rested so well either. There are hiking trails criss-crossing their two hectares of land and leading in to the hills beyond. I have much to share of the beauty that we found on our walks there. The memories are solid and simply good. 
(Smiling Golden not included)
What a gift to know that we have found this charming refuge, only ten minutes outside of L’Isle sur la Sorgue (world-famous for its antique shops) and yet a world a part. Many of the most beautiful villages of the Vaucluse are only a short drive away, although you might just be content to stay put, as we were. Yes, we hope to return and soon.
Le mazet chez Les Romans
Between L’Isle sur la Sorgue and Roque sur Pernes
Owner: Michel Marcouf
Tel. +33 (0)4 90 38 54 63
Current price: from 220€ to 390€ depending on the season, not including deposit
To rent from HomeAway in English: http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p546551a
Pour le louer chez Abritel en Français: http://www.abritel.fr/location-vacances/p546551
Owner’s website for 360° views of both houses: http://les-romans.pagesperso-orange.fr/

As always, it goes without saying (hopefully) that I am not compensated in any way for my rental suggestions, I just like to pass along a good thing when I see it.
Have a great week everyone…
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