Tides

I usually do all that I can to keep the content on this blog my own but I really feel strongly about passing on this beautifully expressed post about the aftermath of the tsunami that was written by the prolific Dominique Browning on her wonderful blog Slow Love Life:
I spoke to my Mom this evening and we both had similar concerns as to the state of affairs in the world and wondering, as drastic as this may sound, if the end was sooner than we think. Our Earth seems to be so strained, so overburdened. How hard it is to be so far away from her and my sister with such thoughts racing though my head, despite my overwhelming love for Remi and the life that we have created here. I imagine that all expats have these feelings from time to time. 
I have been to the Ring of Fire, the area of unstable tectonic plates on which Japan is also situated. Remi and I were fortunate enough to do a story on the tiny island of Vanuatu, of which I will share more another time because it was so fascinating on several levels. One of the most incredible evenings was spent on the crater of Mount Yasur. It is the world’s most accessible active volcano and we both stared down deep into the inner churning of the earth until our guide had to lead us away. We all tend to forget that an unending push and pull is just below the surface of where we live and breathe until such a tragedy reminds us of otherwise. I think if more people had seen such power first hand, they would treat our planet with more respect, but enough of that. Tonight I am just wishing that the tide of fear, of terror, will pull away from Japan to let its people grieve and recover as they can.

New Leaves

This will be a less verbose post than usual as there are too many thoughts swirling around my head for me to corral them into much of an order. My heart goes out to Japan and the Pacific, to those that have lost their homes and loved ones. 
I have long been aware of the irony that in our odd world things can be at the best and worst at the same moment. So while such destruction was hitting hard on the other side of the planet, I was focusing on the minute and the beautiful in our garden. 
Time to get out the rakes. Away with winter’s waste. The camellias are in full bloom and the mystery plant is unfurling with a startling newness. Remi had pruned the wildly wandering fig tree last week and just in time as there are now the tiniest shoots giving promises of what is to come.
It seems to soon, this Spring. I don’t trust it but am embracing it anyway. Because who can say no to a 3.50 € bouquet of tulips? Not me. 
Endings and beginnings. Remi and I have been asking so many questions about what is next. The real estate agent who showed us the house that I wrote about in my “Bones” post called to say that, in fact, the owners need to sell very quickly and are willing to consider a large enough price drop (30K) to make it very tempting. So much to consider at this time of year when creation is brimming just below the surface.

Past Adventures: The French Amazon

Photo © Remi Benali
Photo © Remi Benali

Journey in the land with no name

Heralded as the “King River of French Guiana”, the Maroni courses through a land of adventure. Secret African traditions, gold mining fever and the struggle to survive, all simmer underneath the canopy of the emerald Amazon and an illusory French flag. The law of the forest prevails in this unknown wilderness.
The widow is laughing. The brightly colored pom-poms of her traditional dress swing from side to side as she dances, hand in hand with the women of Galibi. Their faces are tattooed in cat-like lines for this occasion, a chagrin commemorating the one-year anniversary of the passing of her husband, a shaman. Groups of men gaze laconically at the dancers, immobilized by the stultifying heat and the force of the cashiri, a beer made from fermented manioc root. Two young men never stop rotating around the group, offering bowls of the brew, muddy-pink and smelling of vomit, and we are not allowed to refuse. The rhythm pounded on a row of jaguar skin drums bounces like a heartbeat. The dancers begin to call out to the Amerindian ancestors that their village is named after, “Come dance with us, be happy with us…” Their chant ripples through this hamlet in Suriname, down to the coast of the great Maroni River. Across its divide, a passing thunderstorm rages over French Guiana.




Photo © Remi Benali
Photo © Remi Benali
Remi has been encouraging me for awhile to occasionally open up beyond Provence and share some of our past adventures with you. Above is the opening of an article that I wrote for the French travel magazine Grands Reportages along with a few of Remi’s amazing photographs–for more, please feel free to visit his website: www.remibenali.com. As I was working on re-editing it this morning, it seemed the time to jump in. I am including a few of my souvenir photos (that are glued into an album so my apologies for the quality) as well.
Our voyage in French Guiana was perhaps the most physically trying that we experienced. Our pirogue, or motorized canoe, was expertly manned by a captain and his assistant over deathly rapids and across shallow sands but we were left open to the elements, most especially a brutal Equatorial sun, for hours upon hours. We waded across a chest high creek while thoughts of pirañas made my heart race. At night we slept in hammocks to protect us from insects and yet one morning I nearly stepped on a mygale, one of the world’s largest spiders, the size of a dinner plate. One afternoon Remi and I clung back to back, splitting the seat on a quad as it bumped through the jungle for an hour and a half to arrive at a land-scraped gold mine.
And yet I am so grateful for the opportunity to have experienced the Amazon. There is a precious beauty there that is the breathing belly of the world. I remember one evening as we turned a corner on the river just as the sun was setting to see orange and red fireflies that were enormous, fire-working across the sky. Emerald parrots streaking and shrieking. Exceptional.
So from time to time I might talk of our previous stories. I miss travelling so. But life gave me a surprise in that it happened in the first place, so who knows? Perhaps it will bring our travelling back to us as well.

Bones

Oh my, I’m not talking about my own! Thank goodness, I have nothing to divulge on that subject for the moment. No, I am referring to the bones of a house. What lies beneath all of the torturous things we can put them through especially in a town such as Arles where there can be centuries upon centuries worth of layers. I saw an especially good example of that this morning.
Isabelle, one of the many, many real estate agents that we have come to know in Arles (and yet one of the few that hasn’t given up on us due to our winning combination of impossible pickyness and a restrained budget) rang us up. “I think I might have something for you,” she announced and then proceeded with a brief description of a large home dans son jus, literally translating to “in its juices”. Hmm, it was possibly within our budget and sounded appealing enough. Besides, there is nothing that I love more than going to visit these old homes here in Arles. You never know what you are going to find…
Well, beyond what was arguably one of the uglier kitchens that we have come across, we found something, that, in the right hands could be turned into something lovely. Can you see it? No? Well, perhaps you need to know the workings of how homes have been renovated here. After the Second World War, the gorgeous stone that all of these homes are made of was considered far too old fashioned–something for the peasants! And so it was covered up, either with cement and plaster (or even, gulp, stucco) or with sheetrock walls set inches away to let the stone breathe. The same shame treatment was given to the stone or terra cotta tile lined floors as well as the wooden beamed ceilings.
So, with that in mind, just take a look at this room. Now imagine ripping up that linoleum–with pleasure! From the sound of our footfall, we were fairly certain that there were tomettes, terra cotta tiles, underneath. If not, then a parquet could be installed, which would reflect nicely the sunlight traipsing in from that typically 18th century window. Next, strip down the hollow plaster walls to reveal the gorgeous blocks of cream colored stone from Fontvielle. Beside the built in armoire on the right is a hidden conduit for a huge firpeplace–add that to your mental picture. Finally, also remove the at least three feet thick fake ceiling, paint the beams underneath a pale cream and voila! Gorgeous! 
And that is just one room. After climbing up the final flight of the stone staircase (note the cement on the side wall–heart-breaking), we were rewarded with an open loft like space, much bigger than what my little camera can covey, something true of all the rooms actually. Here, if you look past the thick whitewash, you can get an idea of the stone walls but also look at the parfeuille tiles on the floor–centuries old and increasing rare. What could you do up here? Well, several things. Simply finish off the insulation for an extra room, or open up the ceiling to create a terrace complete with a summer kitchen. Or a combination of the above by building a patio on the roof off to the side above one of the bedrooms.

Is this the house for us? No, it isn’t. The work that needs to be done, even though I can imagine doing alot of it ourselves, puts it out of our budget. Nor did it make our hearts go thump, thump which is definitely called for on a project that requires living in dust for a year. But it is an interesting opportunity for someone. Let’s hope it falls into the right hands…

Treason, Part two

We already know the subject. Me, forever nomad, always wondering what is around the corner. Remi is the king pin of wanderlust, so what a team we make. Ben will follow where ever his kibble is. Yes, it can be good to shake out the cobwebs and the sleepies to see the possibilities, especially in the Spring, when too much seems possible. 

And so we have been thinking of leaving Arles. A year in Rome! In Tangier! Or forty-five minutes away in the heart of the Alpilles. Eygalières is one of the bijoux villages, those that make you gasp, Tiffany’s windows like, the first time you set eyes upon it. If St. Rémy brings on the romance, this one inspires as in the “Really?” variety.  

Lines of tilting stone houses, some with trees climbing out of their roofs, the majority shuttered up tight waiting for their summer occupants. Almond trees snowed their blossoms against one of those happiest of blue skies. All leading up, up to a garden strewn with ruins.

The impossible green of new grass crawling out of the depth of winter to shake these old stones to life. Imagine walking out your front door to pass the ancient church on the hill and then on out to stroll the hillsides? It was sounding good to me. Very good.

And yet Eygalières is even more prestigious than St. Rémy in that its tinyness breeds exclusivity, enough so that even France’s biggest stars are welcome to stroll in from their farmhouse to have a café unheeded. It was the couple that run my favorite antiques shop in the area that encouraged me that it was indeed possible to find rentals in this upper-echelon. And sure enough, within minutes of tapping away on my favorite search engine, I had found an ad for an apartment in a stone village house at the crossways of Eygalières and to boot at a surprisingly affordable 750 Euros per month.
I was excited as the décor seemed in accordance with our own. And yet, within mere seconds of having been shown through the front door, the pounding started. The walls shook. “Ah, yes, there is just one thing,” the estate agent said nonchalantly. “There is a construction site next door. They should be working on it for the next year and a half or so. They start at about 7am but are finished by 4.” When I reminded her that Remi and I both work from home and would be privy to a non-stop symphony of noise, her lips tightened into a thin, straight line. No arguing to be had there. And so, no Eygalières for us. 
Is it because of having been an actress that I love to imagine slipping into other lives? Of course. After so much training, the mind just tends to work that way automatically. True, I love to dream. It can be addictive. But it can be dangerous. Sometimes it is best to stop looking elsewhere and just enjoy the little moment where you are. For the moment, we are in Arles and it isn’t quite time to leave. Not just yet. 
Protected by CleanTalk Anti-Spam