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Oh my, I am getting behind in my posting–simply because I am taking too many photos and yes, as Remi rightfully accuses me–am not editing enough. So my head is often entirely somewhere else. Actually, it seems that can be said of many of us in this in-between season time. Our weather has been precocious–t-shirt bearers swan in the sun one day then shiver under turtlenecks the next. No wonder we are all confused! 

So lets bump back to Ann Arbor, Michigan a bit–best to put this and one last post out there quickly before spring demands my full attention here in Provence (not to mention that I actually still have a post to share from Sisteron when I was knee deep in the snow–now who, I ask you, wants to see that? Perhaps my Australian friends who need a break from their summer heat?). 

The weekend is fast approaching so it is perfectly appropriate to return to a quiet Saturday morning in A2. Our first stop was the Farmer’s Market, a very popular outing even in the heart of winter when fresh veggies are slim pickings. But look at these rainbow eggs! That is the making of one happy omelette, especially once you know how well-raised the volailles are that produced them (the only thing they are missing out on are hot-stone massages it would seem). Not to mention orange chipolte vinaigrette or creamy pumpkin butter, winsomely praised by chatty sellers who can sniff out your soft spot for something kind of like what your Grandma made…but ‘organic’.

As this is the Midwest, there are frequently links to a prevalent Germanic heritage with several varieties of sauerkraut on offer. But, as this is cosmopolitan Ann Arbor, The Brinery also produces some seriously fiery kimchi…

…one that could easily be served at the funky, graffiti-covered Kosmo Lunch Counter, a Korean diner in the Kerrytown Market next door. If every single seat hadn’t been occupied (with several folks hovering not so discreetly in the background for the next vacancy), I would have been psyched to have dived into a bowl of Bi Bim Bop, their specialty. 

Instead, my Mom and I strolled through Hollander’s, one of the largest suppliers of decorative wrapping papers and bookbinding materials in the country. The Palazzo in Venice-esque paper especially caught my eye but there are styles and a range of colors to suit any taste–a visit is practically a crash course on design variations.

I wish that I had taken more time to photograph the architecture downtown as we headed hungrily towards The Jolly Pumpkin. It has kept its charm and character and I could easily envision myself living in a loft in one of the renovated brick buildings. 

…but even more so in a delightful cottage such as this, of which there are many, many, many–each painted more joyously than the last, something to battle against the frequently blustery winter skies. Blue and gold banners for the University of Michigan sway from even the finest of homes–these folks are proud of their Wolverines.

I am always content to find a bit of beauty in unexpected places.

Just as I was ready to throw out last week’s tulips, I took a moment to see them once more, as they were and found their forms–lolling tongue’s and grounded wings–more fascinating than the perfect bloom.

And so I am sharing them with you. A last gesture of appreciation!

We had come to pick up some wine for a special dinner. Our dear friends Sonny and Michael had first introduced us to the winery’s award-winning rosé or “pink” as Michael likes to call it, last summer. But it certainly is not yet the moment for rosé! Brrr!! No, we chose the excellent Vallon des Anges, a Coteaux d’Aix that is 80% Syrah, just perfect for the lamb we would be serving it with. 

There was so much, too much else to tempt. Little chickens, fruity vinegar, honey with black truffle! 

…crawling vines and perfectly tended topiary…

…and all in a secluded corner of the Alpilles that just becomes more beautiful to me with each and every moment that I pass there. 

It comes as no surprise to learn that the estate was a gift from King François the First to his daughter and that the estate remained in the same family for four centuries. There is something so timeless and beyond time about this special place. How wonderful to see that the 280 hectares are still so lovingly treasured.

It never ceases to amaze me the differences between the French and American cultures and the widespread misconceptions that each have towards each other as well. Certainly one of the most emotionally charged of those concerns food and our respective eating habits. After having lived with a Frenchman for ten years, I can tell you that it would be unwise to ever even hint to him that his countries cuisine is not the finest in the world. But is it, as too many Americans still think, nothing but heavy sauces and foie gras? Of course not. Just as in the States, we actually do eat more than fast food and frozen dinners. Voici la preuve…

One of the aspects of contemporary American cuisine that I love the most is how the influences of our many ethnicities have taken hold in our cooking to create a fusion that is not reserved for the ultra-luxe. Such creativity can be found on fine display at my favorite restaurant in Ann Arbor, Michigan, Vinology. I remember being slightly skeptical (snotty ex-NYer that I was) when I first heard that there was a wine-based restaurant in Ann Arbor but this was before my first visit to this very cosmopolitan town. I remember strolling up to the wine racks over the bar and not only did I immediately spy a Bandol but a Domaine Tempier at that. Pas mal. How far the Midwest has come since the 70s when my Dad asked for Perrier in our local grocery store upon his return from a visit to France and the clerk asked “Perry who?”

Vinology is wonderful at any time of day and has a rotating menu of regionally sourced specialties including small plates that are served late into the night. My Mom and I were able to go for lunch this visit. A quiet moment for just us two to stretch out and enjoy. 

Now, I can hear ample scoffing from both sides of the pond at my salad choice. Iceberg lettuce? Yes, and let me tell you, if it always tasted this fresh it would have never gone out of fashion. I had forgone the Thai salad with its tofu-massamam curry cream because I was still in need of consuming all of the Americana I could get. And with its farmhouse cheddar, smoked bacon, hand-cut baby frites and creamy potato dressing, I wasn’t disappointed. All of this for $4. $4! Sheesh.

As Vinology has decided to extend Happy Hour throughout the day and wines are half off, we both splurged on a Syrah that what would have been an otherwise scoff-worthy price of $14 per glass. Luckily, we sipped as we chatted because who knows what the alcohol content of that puppy was. Off the charts is all I know. Note to our cute waiter: such a powerhouse is probably not the best recommendation for two ladies at lunch. Fortunately, we had hearty meals on our way.

Lamb Osso Bucco isn’t exactly American but when it is given a spin with rosemary glace, sofrito and pickled cherries…well, you see where the fusiony bits come in. That it was falling off the bone was especially appreciated as our waiter had forgotten to replace my knife. I happily mushed away at it with my fork. It was one of the very best I have had anywhere.

I will also be dreaming after my Mom’s choice–the House-Smoked Turkey enchiladas, something of a gauntlet toss on her part, as, having lived in San Diego for over twenty years, she cooks fine Mexican herself. And yet, oooh la. Local corn tortillas filled with a spinach and artichoke goo, topped with Monterey Jack and a tamarind mole sauce? Thump-thump goes my heart.

You might be able to see why Vinology inspires loyalty. So much so that the regulars have wine lockers to store their best bottles. I may not be in town frequently enough to need one of those but I will certainly be back the next time I am in Ann Arbor or A2 as the locals call it. 

A newbie (for me) to add to the favorites list is the Jolly Pumpkin, also smack downtown. That we had to wait for a table at nearly 2:30pm says much of its popularity. 

I loved the boho cool vibe and funky decor (not to mention the flattering low-lighting) but fell head over heels for the truffle fries with fresh rosemary and house-made mayo. Thank you! 

That plus a more-user friendly Shiraz and I could have been good to go but thank goodness I listened to our adorable waiter’s suggestion (if you have never waited tables, just take this one bit of advice, always listen to the waiter, they know) and dived into a delightfully sloppy Porchetta sandwich. The slow-roasted garlic and herb-infused pork shoulder was perfectly moist but the spinach gave it a bit of snap and the salsa verde aioli (never thought you would see those words together, did you?) as well as the fennel sauerkraut gave it a that sweet/salty tang that was just absolutely fine.  

There is a brewmaster on hand pumping out house-made ales if that is your sort of thing. I can imagine that this miight not be the place to be on a brawlsey Saturday evening in summer or when the University of Michigan has a home game on but otherwise, go forth and munch wisely.

The only true “must” about my recent visit to Ann Arbor, Michigan was to spend time with my Mom and Sister as well as to meet both my Mom’s new boyfriend and dog (I was crazy for both of them). And that is what I did and I tell you, it was wonderful. They spoiled me rotten with love sweet love.

But I do have my favorites that I try to get to each time when I am in that neck of the woods. Perhaps on the top of that list is Treasure Mart in the Kerrytown neighborhood. Like the Dêpot-Ventes in France that I so adore, it is somewhere between junk shop and antique store. You never, ever know what you are going to find but as the stuffed antelope at the door proclaims, you are “welcome” to dig in and dig around. Supposedly, there are folks that come every single day to Treasure Mart and that doesn’t surprise me a bit as the merchandise is priced to turn over as quickly as possible.

We actually headed there the morning after my arrival (which probably is telling, isn’t it?) and in my jet-lagged haziness, I let a few interesting pieces slip through my fingers. 

I was in a decidedly old-fashioned country mood and was delighted by the piles of gilded china, the doilies and this enormous apple-blossom covered set.

My favorite piece that first day was this wonderful oak rocker. There are quite a few homes in the area in the Arts and Crafts architectural style and I know that this beauty must have happily resided in one for decades. Why anyone would part with it I’ll never know and found it to be a steal at $200.

So what did make it home with me this trip? Not much actually as I was in too great of need of practical Americana like jeans that actually fit to bring back as much as usual. But on our second visit I couldn’t resist two woodcuts for $1, I bought my Mom and I each silly sunglasses for the same price (mine are rather Bonoesque, don’t you think?), a chunky stone and semi-precious necklace that will be great next summer and what became known as the “chickateapot” because…well, it made me happy!

More from Ann Arbor to follow soon. Here is to a great week ahead!