I saw a comment this morning on a friend’s blog that angered me deeply and I definitely feel that it merits discussion. The gist of what was written was by someone who professes to “love love love Provence” but yet expressed disappointment after her most recent visit (she has made 12 to France in the past 20 years so is no neophyte) “to see that the country is becoming more middle eastern than french” (sic) due to the prevalance of an Arabic population, including at the local markets where certain stalls sold Arabic goods such as “hiqabs” (um, I guess that would be a cross between a hijab and a niqab?). She claims to be “not a racist but” (and don’t you love a modifier? As in “I am not homophobic but” or “I am not anti-Semitic but”) that when she visits a country she visits it “for its culture” and that she feels that France “has progressively gotten less French,” something that she finds “so sad.”
Right. Extreme right, actually. Marine le Pen couldn’t have said it better herself.
These are dangerous, divisive and yes, extremely racist comments. Can you imagine how it would fly if someone declared that they were terribly sorry but they could no longer visit the States because there were far too many Latinos? You would think them insane. I had to take the dogs for a brisk walk in order to calm down enough to respond properly. For while I am a foreigner, after ten years of living in Provence I have come to love it dearly and if there is one thing that I am fairly certain of: Provence is nobody’s bitch.
Let’s back up quite a bit, historically speaking. As the territory of Provence is stretched across the northern shores of the Mediterranean Basin, it has been a melting pot pretty much since civilization arrived in the form of the Greeks establishing trading posts in the 500s BC (earlier in more eastern areas such as Marseille). Then came the Romans (Italian), the Visigoths (German), the Franks (French-Roman-German), the Moors or Saracens (African via Spain)…this is all in pretty rapid succession. And with these conquerors, also came explorers from near and far. Remi has even floated an idea by that the Phoenicians were the first to start trade on the Rhone River. The Phoenicians! As what was then known as Gaul turned into France, the flow of immigration continued.
Now, let’s fast-forward to after World War II and Les Trente Glorieuses, the thirty years of rapid economic and industrial expansion, when recruiters from powerhouses such as Renault and Peugeot went deep into the North African countries on the other side of the Mediterranean Basin to find inexpensive labor to work in France. The consequences of both that action and what followed merits a very long discussion* – so I will just stick to my main point and say that the “Arabic” population – who are of mainly, as I mentioned, North African descent and so there is nothing Middle-Eastern about them – living in France have been here for quite some time (often three to four generations or as long as my paternal ancestors have been in the United States). Born and raised in the hexagone, this is “their” France as much as it is anybody’s and “their” culture is part of France’s as well. Of course, they aren’t always treated that way, nor were the Italian and Spanish immigrants who arrived in that same wave either. But they are here, this is their home. It is why when someone from the area speaks of being of pur race or pure blood, not only does it infuriate me but perplexes me as to their limited knowledge of their own region as there has always been a mixité sociale. Let alone “a perfect vision” of any culture reminds me of the Nazis that patrolled the streets outside my door not so long ago at all.
Can we return to the comment that started this discussion? I am wondering…which Provence do we think that this woman was referring to? Olive groves under blue skies certainly but what else? It is wonderful that so many people want to come and visit this amazing region from all over the world but…Provence does not belong to those tourists any more than it does to those of us who live here, really. We are just tiny pieces of the puzzle, quick blips in time that is always evolving, moving swiftly on. It is amazing that we have things of great beauty that stay – such incredible remnants of the past in our Roman masterpieces and Romanesque churches as well as such proud landscapes and traditions. But Provence is alive far beyond what one reads in guidebooks or in the tales of Peter Mayle. Even “his” Luberon doesn’t really exist in the same way as when he started writing the series in the 80s…already…Do you see what I mean? Are visitors coming with the hopes of seeing his Provence? Or Patricia Wells’ or Rick Steeve’s’ or Lawrence Durrell’s or Pagnol’s? Or are you coming with open eyes to find your own…to enjoy what is here…now?**
Remi and I had a good conversation with someone who was in the region for a week on business concerning the end of an excellent art exhibition in Arles. He had gone to Avignon on a day off and yet did not make it to the Centre Historique because he had become so fascinated by the North African community by the train station that he had explored that instead – the tea shops, the hair salons, the interactions of Mom’s picking their kids up from school. Granted, he is an artist himself but it was wonderful to see his finding the richness of diversity as worthy of being appreciated in its own right.
All of this doesn’t mean that certain happy clichés about Provence have disappeared or aren’t worth enjoying…on the contrary, the quality of living here remains as important as ever. On a gorgeous sunny day like today – even in winter – you can while away the hours at a terrace café with your face upturned while snacking on briny olives and sipping on a too sweet wine…there just might be someone whose skin isn’t white sitting next to you…and unless it is sported with irony, I highly doubt that they will be wearing a beret. I know that we all love Provence for its dreams – I write about them all the time – but let’s not forget that the realities can be, can be, just as promising too.
*Ok, so yes, we will need to have a long talk about the North African immigration, being Muslim (or not) in France, integration and racism as well as how much this is an issue in current French society. It is a big discussion and one that is hard to reduce down to a post size form. I also wanted to ask permission from Remi to tell his part of the story. He granted me that today over lunch so it will be a subject that I will need to work upon. But in the mean time, if you have not already seen Indigènes or Days of Glory in English, I would highly recommend it. You can find more information here.
**I do think that this post applies to more subjects than what is local to Provence. I have written a good bit here about expectations and certainly they pay a great part of our experience when we travel. It is worth thinking about what they are based upon. I will admit my part in ignorance – my Mom and I went alone to Egypt in 1992 and for my part I was looking for the glamour of “Murder on the Nile”! The truth of it is that we live in a global world now and that cultures are not frozen. So unless you are going to a very curated Club Med type beach vacation (for which I do not judge you in the least, please pass the umbrella drinks) or are taking a tour through Walt Disney World’s “It’s a Small World after All” be warned for chasing after a land that no longer exists or you very well may be disappointed. Nostalgia can do that to a person.
The other posts in the Contrasts in Provence series can be found: here, here, here and here.
Thank you for reading.
I am going to send you an email in a bit but I just wanted to say that I completely agree with you about everything that you have said here.
In travelling, I have seen that insularity and distrust in peoples of all religions, just as I have seen the beauty of faith in all religions as well.
While ignorance and distrust often seem to be winning the day in our current Western societies, let's not underestimate the simple power of even things like repsonses to a blog can bring…
My Best to you, Patricia…
Thank you Heather! I hope that some day you will write about your husband's experiences. You have a nice way of telling stories that encourages the reader to reflect. I'd be eager to see your choices of photos too.
I've lived in the Paris area for 13 years, my husband is French and we've been together for 12 of those years. Most of the comments I've had in Paris have been more what I'd consider ignorant than racist. For example, people have assumed that my husband is North African (who are all Muslim because "it's their culture and they have no other choice") and that he forced me to convert. In reality, he is what I call a 'seasonal Catholic' visiting church for the occasional wedding or funeral, but otherwise non-practicing.
To be fair, I have met Muslims whose views are insular as well. If there is a wall of distrust between people, the responsibility of all good people is to dismantle the wall rather than add bricks to heighten it.
When I think of what defines "racism" one of the first attributes that comes to mind is ignorance. It can be a simple lack of awareness or exposure to the unfamiliar. People like this may be open to listening and learning. Or ignorance can be a deliberate intent to filter out anything that doesn't fit the person's view of the world and becomes an entrenched habit. I find it very difficult to create a dialogue with these kind of people and just leave them to simmer in their own poisonous juices. lol I'm sure I will soon discover those "polemic tensions" in Arles that you describe, wish me luck!
We had a look at LUMA, it's indeed impressive! I will send an email but will not impose on your kindness with a million questions about Arles. Your blog is a marvel of info already.
Friendly greetings,
Patricia
Oh this is such a beautiful response, Patricia and I am so grateful for your honesty. Shukraan.
I did not end up doing the piece on Remi's story (yet, at least) but I can tell you that I have been standing next to him while he has had the exact same experience many times. While not Muslim, he comes from a métis background – his mom is White, his dad from Algeria and Morocco. Because of his big blue eyes and not "typical" North African features, he has heard so many anti-Arabic comments. Depending on the person and the circumstance, he would respond or no. Often he did. But it is a tricky situation.
I am so curious if you have lived elsewhere in France before and what your experience was there. In general, there is a lot of tolerance in Arles. But there is also a lot of racism too – or just in general extreme distust from anyone that is "new" – and by new I mean that hasn't been there since five generations – literally. Actually, it is so very Arles to say that as it is a town of polemical tensions in some ways, not all bad. You will quickly see that for yourself I believe.
Regardless, welcome to Arles, it is an amazing place to live, truly. And you have arrived at such an incredible time – you will see the wave rise with the Gehry tower completion.
My email is robinsonheather (at) yahoo dot com. Please, please feel free to email me! If I can be of help with suggestions, I would love that. And there is a lot of info here too if you use the search area on the right hand side. But I have so much to say about Arles. Wishing you the Best as you get settled,
Namaste,
Heather
Thank you Heather, your thoughts reflect both truth and eloquence. I am a new resident in Arles and I've already received a lecture on the 'Arab-ization' of the open market by a well-meaning resident. Unlike you, I remained silent and I have mixed feelings that I did so. I'm a blonde, blue-eyed Muslim and do not wear obvious Islamic clothing. I wear a mix of fashionable tuniques or dresses with leggings or a layered look with pants and a long shirt and short jean jacket. Most people have no clue as to what I believe. I like it that way because I want to feel the same acceptance from others that I have for their choices. If I do self-disclose, unfortunately it can be a jaw-dropping moment for the other person and their reaction is not always positive. So I said nothing to the woman who advised me about the open market. But I'll be there on Saturday mornings (inshallah), feeling tempted to buy a tarte tropézienne, carrying a bag of veggies like everyone else, and with a friendly smile on my face – my heart as open as the blue sky above me.
I could not agree with you more. I am so deeply upset by so much of the news that is happening – so much hatred, so much divisiveness – when history has already shown us that immigration (and before that migration) is a natural part of the evolution of our culture and a positive one too.
A great piece! Thank you again, Heather! You can imagine the populistic and racist tones public 'discussion' about the present storm of refugees has reached in our country with a population of some 5.5 million and a minimal share of foreigners, these days that is. Immigrants brought us industrialization and the capital to start companies in the first place, 350,000 people emigrated to the USA to find a better life not to mention that we needed and were given international aid after the war but now some people have the nerve to riot that we can't afford to keep the borders open for the asylum seekers. A few lessons in history would be badly needed here, too, to give a bit of perspective.
This means so much, coming from such a fantastic photographer as yourself Meredith, thank you!!!
Merci.
I have to admit, I noticed the striking photos in this post first. (Blame it on my day job!) Each one made me pause. And reminded me of how much I enjoy seeing Provence through your eyes. Of course, then I scrolled back to the top to begin reading the words you chose to accompany these beautiful images, and this sentiment of mine only grew stronger. We're all lucky to experience Provence through your eyes, your words, and most importantly, your heart. Thanks for sharing this!