One of the aspects of this blog that I take quite seriously is not only to point you in the direction of “must sees” in Provence both known and less-so but also to give you a heads up about places that left me disappointed. While that is perhaps a stronger word than necessary concerning my visit to the Chateau d’Uzès, well, it isn’t far-fetched either…even if, admittedly, I had high expectations beforehand.
I adore Uzès and have been – and written about the town – many times and yet had never toured its most well-known attraction after the Place aux Herbes. My main hesitation had always been over the price of the ticket – a whopping 18 Euros per person. My Mom was kind enough to invite me to discover the duché or ducal chateau along with her charming husband Leonard during their visit in September. It is home to the House of Crussol, France’s oldest ducal peerage.
After passing through a Louis XIII style portico, we arrived in the main courtyard. Happily, there is a cordoned off area at the entry that is free and open to the public. From here, one can take in the various elements composing the domaine as it was constructed over time starting with three ancient towers to a Gothic chapel and a splendid Renaissance period facade created in 1550 – unusual in that it is lined with Ionic, Doric and Corinthian columns, rarely seen all together – which joins them. There are some fine Romanesque touches as well, including sitting bull carvings on a frieze and the eye-catching family crest that was set into the chapel’s roof tiles à la Bourguignonne in the 19th century. The duché was meant to be impressive from a great distance and it is.
Several clusters of couples, many fanning themselves with brochures, were dotted across the courtyard as we approached the ticket booth. A group was just about to set off for the 45 minute long presentation. If we wished to join them, we would have to hurry as no, the castle does not take credit cards. We were directed to an ATM close by and joined up with the others just as they were leaving the extensive wine cellar, leaving me feeling like a scuttled tourist, something that I try to avoid at all costs.
After touring the castle, we were asked if we wished to ascend to the top of the donjon, which had been built over Roman ruins in the 11th century. Known as the Tour Bermonde, it is the tallest of the towers at the duché. There is a sign at its base saying that it is 135 steps high and that children are not allowed to mount unattended by a parent. We looked at each other. “Is 135 steps too much?” we wondered. It didn’t seem like it. Up we started. Well, perhaps that number isn’t enormous in itself but when the steps are on a vertical corkscrew, it is another matter entirely. All three of us had to stop and catch our breath en route, hoping that we wouldn’t block other visitors on their way down as there is no room to pass. This is definitely not un endroit that I would suggest to anyone who has either claustrophobia or vertigo (as I would realize in the descent, which I had to do turned sideways). However, when we finally reached the summit, our legs were wobbly from the effort but the views were truly spectacular. The clouds that had been hovering all afternoon magically disappeared and I felt like a bird hovering over the roofs of the town and the rolling countryside beyond. It was worth the price of admission alone (and one can visit it without the tour for 13 Euros)…alas, just not such an expensive one.
I will tell you about the chateau’s history and its interiors in my next post…
The Duché d’Uzès
Place du Duché
30700 – Uzès
Exteriors versus interiors, facades versus…loyalty? I have been bandying these words about since having read an op-ed piece in Le Monde this morning that asked how the people in France could have been so unified after the terrorist attacks on November 13th only for so many to vote for the extreme-right and extremely divisive Front National party in this weekends regional elections only a few weeks later. It is a question that has left me feeling ill and angry. And then afterwards to read in the NY Times of Donald Trump’s intentions to block any Muslim from being permitted access to – let’s remember the full name now – the UNITED States of America? I am horrified and left feeling shaky ground beneath my feet in both of “my” countries. So instead, today I made a determined choice to focus on a beautiful past (these old stones, this living history) while at the same time being watchful and vigilant as our future unfolds…to be continued…
Spot on about everything, Heather. You know we love Uzès, and while we "liked" our visit to the Chateau, we were not "wowed". We thought at the time that perhaps we had just become too jaded. I still love the thought that a real Duke lives there, and that the last Duchess (or maybe the one before the most recent one) is/was an American. A girl can dream…right?
I was not surprised about the outcome of the recent election in France…just like here in the States, people are being influenced by the hate and fear mongers, and they are sure that the source of all our problems lie in the existence of one group. I am frightened, truly frightened.
Shortly after leaving here I was looking at a post from one of our lush Florida botanical gardens with this quote "How fair is a garden amid the trials and passions of existence."
– Benjamin Disraeli
Great beauty on both sides of the Atlantic and like many of us, this beauty, plus wrapping gifts while listening to wonderful music and amusing my 17 years, 3 continents cat, sending Christmas and Chanukah gifts and cards around the country and the world, brings joy and sanity to me. But I feel we can't just hope and pray that Trump, ISIS, et al will pass; we need to actively work and speak out for peace and justice.
Thanks for braving those stairs for the view – it's spectacular. The world is in a mess, there's no doubt about it. Yet there is beauty, as you've shown so well. Focusing on the good and beautiful is healing and restorative – if only more people would take your philosophy to heart.
I have not yet visited Uzès, but someday will get there. From my vantage point on this side of the Atlantic: The rhetoric from politicians here is horrifying, and scary. Trump is the worst, but others of his party are right behind him. And I follow the French regional elections from here, election results which are also …..
Trump and his ilk too will pass. You are right to concentrate on the beauty that surrounds you.
Oui, Heather. It's all we can do for now. See and appreciate the beautiful and good, and think positively. Lovely post.
Fabulous and like Bonnie I also loved Orvieto! It is a very shaky time indeed in our countries Heather, I pray for peace and sensible governments all of the time.
xoxo
Karena
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I've not been there, looks quite beautiful. Makes me think of a few years back, in Orvieto, I climbed the tower which has 236 steps. Its a better staircase, but open so you can look down (if you want to). I was glad to get to the top! It was a gorgeous view and worth it, it is a bell tower, and the bell rang when I was standing next to it and I about jumped off! If you ever have the opportunity, visit Orvieto.
Beautiful photos!