We see what we want to see; we tell ourselves the stories that comfort what we think we know.
I don’t take the beauty of Provence for granted. It can be wide and sweeping or minuscule and intimate. An endless variation of songs to light up the dance floor. And how I do love it when I am asked to dance.
But, but after ten years of living here, I can be a snob about certain things, as unattractive as that is to admit.
For example, I don’t like crowds and feel foolish when caught in the midst of them in full on “ooh” mode.
Fanning women who have “A Year in Provence” poking out of their bag and agressive baseball cappers extending a selfie stick towards the sky make me grumpy.
See? Right on time. Snobby.
And certainly no place tends to prickle my skin more than Les Baux-de-Provence.
While I have a healthy respect for its fame, I see its potential and shake my head in dismay at the endless line of identical tourist shops lining the cobblestone streets, those selling fake savon du Marseille and polyester napkins imprinted with bees.
And yet, here we go, the entry to the humbling part…
…of course I wanted my Mom and her husband Leonard to see it while they were visiting in September.
And they were enchanted.
So how could I not be? Wonder is delightfully contagious.
All of those veils of ideas, judgements and expectations fell away. The crowds pushed around me and yet it didn’t matter. Of course, they have the right to stop and point and rave.
By giving in, I found myself back in Les Baux, the one that I know to love in my heart, even when my head tells me otherwise. Stories silenced, vision cleared. In seeing it through the eyes of loved ones, I discovered it anew for myself, Provence plus one.
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Eh oui, I seem to have written quite a few times about this enigmatic village (and I am not done yet as there will be a post on the main church there in the future). It is fun to look back at them now…especially in seeing how certain places have changed or not over time.
If you would like to understand the history of the village, click here.
Another shift in perspective, this time via a camera trick. To read, click here.
I love everything about this post (save that the photos are so small!): here.
And for my friends in the other hemisphere, you must believe in spring, so please click here.
Oh! And thank you all for your lovely responses on my previous post. For those of you that have been wondering, yes, Ellie arrived safely and is already making her new house a home…
Lou Clavèu in Fontvielle. It has about 12 tables. The very funny husband serves and his wife cooks in the upstairs kitchen. It's a delight, and we make a trip there every year. We are always remembered and welcomed. We found it by mistake, which is how I find all my favorite things! bon appetit!
The real stuff is much heavier and much, much more dense than the cheapy stuff that is often sold at the markets, almost clay-like. Once you feel it, you know.
Jenny, the thing is that Les Baux was in ruins until it was renovated…so the local government could totally have prohibited this escalation of tackiness but they only promoted it! There are equally touristic towns like Honfleur in Normandy that are nothing but art galleries, which would be perfect in this environment! But yes, there is still good things to be had.
If you ever come back, you know what you would love? My idea at the end of one of the posts…to go in to the chateau towards the end of the admissions, sneak in wine and snacks and have an amazing apero!
Oh don't worry, we can go when you come over with La Contessa. 🙂 And you can speak Spanish!
Lorrie, I love that you rented a scooter to go swim at the Pont du Gard! That is something that locals do! 🙂 And that mix of authentic and touristic is a real part of what Provence is today…at least it sounds like you had a great day…
I know that you will find your own version of it if you do, Edgar.
Yes, yes, yes! There will be so much to see together! Please….
And I bet you are thinking of Gordes. They look fairly similar but Gordes is much closer to L'Isle sur la Sorgue.
xoxox
Judi, I love that image of the beauty being so strong that it can tire you out! That rings so true with me. And it sounds like you found your own experience of Les Baux, which means that it was the perfect one. 🙂
When/if you come back I will take you to a secret shrine that is right there and yet no one knows about it!
Oh my gosh Sister, you always take it to the next level! Wow, that is so interesting about the Imago Therapy and it is something that I am deeefiniiiitely going to think about for the future. I love you!