“It was a good day, non?” Remi asked as we settled back into the car. “It was Coeur, it was a really good day,” I replied.
We both were sleepy from the excitement of discovery, kids post-aquarium style and squinting into the rose gold of the sunset as we headed for home.
It can be tricky nostalgia, looking back. Even in that word, if you roll it around on your tongue there is a whisper of a warning in it. And yet that is exactly what we have been doing as of late. Spending copious amounts of time on what once was.
As I mentioned previously, Remi has been doing an amazing storytelling on his instagram account this past month to raise awareness about the importance of protecting our wildlife after the shameful killing of Cecil the Lion.
He is a wonderful writer in his own right, although these days it is limited to instagram. It was because of his capabilities that we were able to convince the magazine Grands Reportages to give me a try just months after my having moved to France by his saying, “If you really don’t like what she does, then I will write something instead.” He didn’t need to rewrite that article and we set off on a series of adventures together that I could never have imagined possible.
One of the biggest surprises for me – who had still only recently been an “I can run in high heels to catch a taxi if need be” New Yorker – was my astonishingly deep love for being on safari. For me, there is no more direct route to feel one with the blinding bright beauty of our earth. It can be overwhelming and yet utterly reassuring at the same time. “Yes, this exists and somehow I am right here, a part of it. I am alive.”
Twice we were able to visit the Ngorongorgo Crater in Tanzania, the second of which in 2006 was for a story that was exclusively on this sunken caldera of twenty kilometers in diameter that is home to roughly 25,000 large animals, a true Cradle of Life. It was an exceptional experience, especially as the authorities had accorded us a few days of rare passes permitting us to leave the road to better explore, to get closer.
Remi’s photographs from that time are exquisite. Looking at them now while he puts the story together has brought out strong feelings for both of us, pride and wistfulness amongst them. Both of us peering back at our incredibly exciting past through the computer screen from the padded quiet of our house in a tiny, sleepy village in a forgotten corner of Provence.
Nostalgia. I said it could be a dangerous word.
And yet. And yet…
Last week Remi invited me to tag along with him as he made a repérage for another of his photography workshops, this time not in the Alpilles but in the Camargue. It is an area that I am not often fond of in its mix of rough terrain and touristy vibe. And yet, in visiting the Parc Ornithologique de Pont de Gau we were surrounded by both. But I have to say that the experience was…fantastic.
The paths and pass-rails covering the swamps allowed us to walk amidst the thousands of birds – pink flamingos or flamants roses, egrets and herons, just to name a few – and as they are habituated to the proximity of human presence – just like in the Ngorongoro Crater – they don’t flee but continue to eat and fish and chat amongst themselves.
After exclaiming with joyous disbelief, we fell silent with wonder. And then we began to take photographs, both of us aided by telephoto lenses. Mine was a 300mm, heavy enough to make my Olive Oyl arms wobble. Remi was using one of his Leica’s – even more monstrous – but after having shot five Olympic Games, well, he is used to it.
We moved and focused and focused again. Eyes searching wide and hearts leaping until we felt like we were flying on wonder – that same exhilaration we had known before – until we understood that we did not have to go to Africa to experience it. We were still capable of finding it all on our own.
Yes, it was a really good day.
This post was written as part of the series called By Invitation Only which unites a group of bloggers to express themselves on a specific theme. This month a question was asked, “What are you afraid of?” Now, that is a topic that is just across the border of what I am willing to discuss here literally. But there is one thing that I can tell you that I have always been afraid of: stagnation. Amongst the glorious birds of the Camargue, I found a way to keep growing, to keep moving forward, open.
To discover what the other bloggers have written on this very challenging theme, please find the links by clicking: Here.
To read Remi’s storytelling on instagram about the Ngorongoro Crater: @remibenali
To follow my feed: @lostinarles
As always, thank you for being here.
With my Best from Provence,
Heather
I think of you as someone who is always moving forward while retaining a healthy respect for your past. Am I right?
Even though it has been almost 45 years since I saw them in the Ngorongoro Crater, I will never forget the enthralling loveliness of the flamingos there. Thank you for these beautiful flamingo images, which I will save for to be enjoyed over and over.
Nostalgia is an odd emotion for me, as most of my world travels occurred in my young adulthood and most of my most moving interactions with human beings have occurred in the time since then. I am very nostalgic for what definitely will not be experienced again (such as time with my mother), but still optimistically focused on looking forward to more, or to the first time, about the rest.
Appreciating your visual and written poetry so much, Leslie in Oregon
So much about your response made me smile. I would think that being a finalist for the worst photographer in France might take some doing…along the lines of: forgetting to take the lens cap off, erasing all of the photos before downloading them and a constant presence of a thumb in each photo? 🙂 And I love that you flat out asked for the oldest, smalles horse instead of doing what most of us do which is silently praying for the best out of pride (certainly for me who grew up riding and so should know better).
Yes, I have read that too about the sea levels – that it could easily go back to what it was in ancient times when the sea reached nearly to Arles today.
I think because of the rental horses I have always avoided the Camargue – they break my heart. But this visit to see the birds was just revelatory. I can't wait to return.
Oh, and perhaps it goes without saying that the only time we visit the sea is between October and April?
I have always liked the Camargue for its wildness. Visit in October, when the tourists have left and it is very windswept and atmospheric. I have been through that park and like you was fascinated by the bird life, but I am probably a finalist for worst photographer in France, so now I look and enjoy, and leave the photos to someone else. A very interesting thing are the *huge* pumps that run constantly near the sea, to the east of the town, which are keeping it above water. I believe it is in line to return to the sea if the expected sea level changes materialize. I rode a horse for two hours (guided) at the national park site (I too feel sorry for the "regular" rental horses), I asked for the oldest, smallest horse being a terrible rider — I'm off as much as on — and it was quite wonderful going out on the marsh. There is a lot of beauty in the Camargue.
Hi Heather,
I had a Wonderful experience in the Camargue area . It was very hot and dump but exciting. I also took a lot of photos with
my telephoto lenses 300 mm (it was not easy to use it) . I felt so happy after my three days
there! Nice experience isn't it? Bisous
No – I went and checked out maps.google – it is south of Nimes – wow – a spot on the map to mark for the future!! Thx for sharing!!
Heather – just unreal – I had no idea there were flamingos in France – or have I miss-understood the story??
Remi's 'Zine' on Issuu is superb – he is a true master of his art!! Wow – I am in awe!!
OMGoodness Heather, these images are amazing! I can feel you energy behind the camera. Sorry, I'm a little late to visit, it's been a busy week with a client. Thank you for sharing they are the most incredible birds! xxx much love, hugs, xx Coty