Politicians tend to run with the money when they have it, to make the most of an already good thing. So it was in Arles (or Arelate as it was then known) when it became the first Roman colony in Gaul – up went the Antique Theatre, the Forum, the Arena, the Circus lickety-split to make use of new found money from Rome so that the town would be as attractive as possible to those considering moving westwards past a new frontier.
One could also say that when Georges Frêche was elected as mayor of Montpellier in 1977, he saw a similar opportunity for his rapidly expanding city.
During his 27 year term, he pushed Montpellier into ever-extending growth, one that would move the city from the 25th largest in France to the 8th in less than 30 years.
And while he certainly is still considered a controversial figure in the region, even after his death in 2010, he undeniably solidified Montpellier’s status as both a center for universities and the telecommunications industry (IBM has had an office here since 1965).
Entire neighborhoods have been created from scratch, radiating out from the historic center in concentric circles. To skip the infamous snarls of the city’s traffic, we always park on the Lez River and walk through the Antigone neighborhood, which was designed in the neoclassical manner (one of Montpellier’s slogans was “the Rome of Tomorrow”) by Barcelona architect Ricardo Bofill in 1979.
But our ambling nearly always takes us to the Place de la Comédie, whether it is our destination or not. This gorgeous square was called L’Ouef or the Egg due to its shape in the 18th century and is now framed with gorgeous 19th century cream-puff Haussmanian style buildings as well as a miniature version of the Garnier Opera House in Paris. The Place is the heart of this vibrant city.
At least The Three Graces think so and they have been swanning in their glory on top of this fountain since 1796.
Cafés line the Place and even on a mid-February day, every table is taken. The people-watching, as you might imagine, is fantastic.
After having spent so much of my adult life in big cities, I loved seeing the cosmopolitan mix of the population out enjoying the day…
…and the architecture isn’t too shabby either…
On such a glorious day…it all made my heart take flight…
…most certainly while watching the children run around me in circles (literally) on the Esplanade Charles de Gaulle.
While this promenade was first constructed after the siege of 1622 when the city’s fortified walls were beaten down by Louis XIII, it became a favorite spot for strolling in the 18th century when plantain trees were planted all along its length to give shade during this Mediterranean towns stifling summer days.
I don’t know Montpellier as well as I do say, Aix-en-Provence or Avignon so happily there are still many hidden paths to explore…
…but each time that I visit, I can’t help but admire its myriad textures…
and various perspectives…
…which, while often striking on the monumental…
…are finally geared towards making city life here livable and enjoyable. As we walked we came across so many open areas that were filled with families and adolescents laughing and at ease as there was space enough for everyone…
…Eh oui, except for the les étudiants, who were packed like sardines into the main library. Yes, even on a Sunday. You see, the first school of medicine here was formed in 1220 and certain traditions demand respect…
…well, except from the young lovers who were sprawled out on the lawn in an embrace. They had other priorities and were right to make the most of a tempting pre-spring day, one so bright that I couldn’t quite capture its blue blending against the golden stones (both new and old) correctly. But I had to try even if the exposure on my camera wasn’t set properly! And so when these particular two, full of joy and bravado, caught me focusing my lens in their direction, they yelled out “Coucou” or “Hi there!” with a wave and then fell onto each other laughing. I gave a little curtsy of Merci and walked away smiling, zinging with the vibrant energy from the old and new cocktail that is and hopefully will continue to be the wonderful city of Montpellier.
I have to say that for such a big city, it is something that really surprises me. And the local folks clearly love it and USE that space a lot…
Yep, basically those blue skies were the entire excuse for making this post as I know that there are a lot of people – most certainly my family in Michigan – that are getting miiiiighty tired of winter right about now. So, I put my effort into preparing them and gave myself a "go free" pass for the writing. That feels good sometimes because not all of us can hit the ball out of the park every single time like you do!! 😉
Thank you, Edgar. But it isn't surprising to me as A) French towns love a good slogan 😉 and B) the Roman Empire extended to Narbonne, far past Montpellier!
Oh my! I have been living here for nearly 14 years and I feel like I have only seen the tip of the iceberg! So much to see…It is really something that I love about this country is that if you drive for two hours you will see a different landscape. 🙂
Bon Weekend!
Lovely Heather! I enjoyed your beautiful description and narration and watching your photos I understand why they call Montpellier the Rome of the future. I really felt a familiar atmosphere! I have never visited this beautiful town so I will add Montpellier in my wish list! Hsve a nice weekend my dear!
Wow!! This is a different city than we've seen here – I really love the big open square (egg) and the mix of styles! Can we go on our next visit, please? And you were apologizing for the colors, but I thought they came out wonderfully – beautiful blues – made it look like a lovely day to be there! And sitting outside?? Methinks your winters are not nearly as bad as ours, so keep that in mind, Missy!! But lovely post – merci, belle soeur!
Love the openness that gives room to breathe.
Just had a catch up on posts here- I've missed loads! Am very happy that your Japanese maple is alive- we have similar here with our lime tree. The visuals are rather refreshing- especially that blue sky- for my obsessive writer tired eye syndrome 🙂 xx
It’s interesting that Montpellier wants to be Roman rather than French. But the architecture looks like a good mix of modern and classic.
I like the huge plaza.Mrs. Abstract and I would indeed love to promenade there.
Very nice photos.
What a beautiful city. I don't know much about Montpellier, so am so grateful for the tour, Heather. The architecture is truly gorgeous and interesting, isn't it? Love the mix. Your photos capture it perfectly. Thanks for taking me there… will there ever be time enough to visit all the places I'm curious about in France? Probably not – so thank goodness for you, my friend! XOXO