Politicians tend to run with the money when they have it, to make the most of an already good thing. So it was in Arles (or Arelate as it was then known) when it became the first Roman colony in Gaul – up went the Antique Theatre, the Forum, the Arena, the Circus lickety-split to make use of new found money from Rome so that the town would be as attractive as possible to those considering moving westwards past a new frontier.
One could also say that when Georges Frêche was elected as mayor of Montpellier in 1977, he saw a similar opportunity for his rapidly expanding city.
During his 27 year term, he pushed Montpellier into ever-extending growth, one that would move the city from the 25th largest in France to the 8th in less than 30 years.
And while he certainly is still considered a controversial figure in the region, even after his death in 2010, he undeniably solidified Montpellier’s status as both a center for universities and the telecommunications industry (IBM has had an office here since 1965).
Entire neighborhoods have been created from scratch, radiating out from the historic center in concentric circles. To skip the infamous snarls of the city’s traffic, we always park on the Lez River and walk through the Antigone neighborhood, which was designed in the neoclassical manner (one of Montpellier’s slogans was “the Rome of Tomorrow”) by Barcelona architect Ricardo Bofill in 1979.
But our ambling nearly always takes us to the Place de la Comédie, whether it is our destination or not. This gorgeous square was called L’Ouef or the Egg due to its shape in the 18th century and is now framed with gorgeous 19th century cream-puff Haussmanian style buildings as well as a miniature version of the Garnier Opera House in Paris. The Place is the heart of this vibrant city.
At least The Three Graces think so and they have been swanning in their glory on top of this fountain since 1796.
Cafés line the Place and even on a mid-February day, every table is taken. The people-watching, as you might imagine, is fantastic.
After having spent so much of my adult life in big cities, I loved seeing the cosmopolitan mix of the population out enjoying the day…
…and the architecture isn’t too shabby either…
On such a glorious day…it all made my heart take flight…
…most certainly while watching the children run around me in circles (literally) on the Esplanade Charles de Gaulle.
While this promenade was first constructed after the siege of 1622 when the city’s fortified walls were beaten down by Louis XIII, it became a favorite spot for strolling in the 18th century when plantain trees were planted all along its length to give shade during this Mediterranean towns stifling summer days.
I don’t know Montpellier as well as I do say, Aix-en-Provence or Avignon so happily there are still many hidden paths to explore…
…but each time that I visit, I can’t help but admire its myriad textures…
and various perspectives…
…which, while often striking on the monumental…
…are finally geared towards making city life here livable and enjoyable. As we walked we came across so many open areas that were filled with families and adolescents laughing and at ease as there was space enough for everyone…
…Eh oui, except for the les étudiants, who were packed like sardines into the main library. Yes, even on a Sunday. You see, the first school of medicine here was formed in 1220 and certain traditions demand respect…
…well, except from the young lovers who were sprawled out on the lawn in an embrace. They had other priorities and were right to make the most of a tempting pre-spring day, one so bright that I couldn’t quite capture its blue blending against the golden stones (both new and old) correctly. But I had to try even if the exposure on my camera wasn’t set properly! And so when these particular two, full of joy and bravado, caught me focusing my lens in their direction, they yelled out “Coucou” or “Hi there!” with a wave and then fell onto each other laughing. I gave a little curtsy of Merci and walked away smiling, zinging with the vibrant energy from the old and new cocktail that is and hopefully will continue to be the wonderful city of Montpellier.
Oh you are welcome Bill. And you really hit upon something that I forget to write about that is important – a lot of downtown is entirely blocked off to traffic save for the super efficient tramways. Remi in particular hates walking around where there are cars and it is true it makes such a difference as you are free to roam and regard with worry of being run over!
Yes, I need to go back to keep exploring! And knowing you, you must have good restaurant addresses – please do tell… 🙂
Merci Lorrie. We really had a great day – we went to see an exhibition that was fantastic that I hope to be writing about soon. 🙂
I love that you Googled it and how interesting that the photos are up to date. Kind of freaky too in a Big Brother sort of way. 😉 And this was indeed a "mini" tour showing just a tiny part of this big city!
Hooray! Hang on. It is why I chose to publish this with the photos not quite properly exposed (I am still learning to shoot in manual) because they really gave a sense of warmth and I figured that quite a few folks out there could use it.
PS. Those are vélibes in the photo and are freeeee!
What are you talking about? You need to come visit ME the next time you are nearby! *exasperated dramatic sigh*
As I enjoyed discovering your blog, Susan and will sign up to follow you on bloglovin'. 🙂 What a beautiful corner of France you live in and it is so clear that you and your family all really appreciate it as well…
Ah, you are thinking of the Mont St. Michel which is, literally, on the other side of France! teehee And it is quite amazing too, especially if you go way off season when it isn't so crowded.
It ususally is far more bustling with people! It was better for the photos that it was empty but I think you would enjoy it, Loree.
Karena, you would love the Musee Fabre there – one of my favorite museums in Provence. There is a LOT of art and culture in Montpellier.