It was my birthday. I am superstitious about them, childishly so. If they aren’t slam-dunk amazing does that mean that I will be doomed to a year ahead of offness? So it was with a nearing whininess that I wandered through the crowded streets of high season Uzes, a town that I usually adore, after a late and frankly so-so lunch with my honey on the Place des Herbes. I held his hand tighter when I saw that the shop that we had come here to visit was closed for Monday. Things were not going according to plan.
But then Remi made a swift turn and entered into a boutique that I had never seen before. If I have learned anything after living nearly thirteen years with this handsome photographer, it is that the man has pif, he has instinct. Where he goes, I will follow or regret it later.
Those of you that have been reading for any length of time know that I am fascinated by patina. I don’t just find it “pretty” or “fashionable” I also find it…quite meaningful. So perhaps you can imagine my inner leap of joy upon discovering that I was in the Ali Baba Cavern of Yee Olde Beautiful Things. And it is run by a wonderful curator.
Bénédicte Leuwers-Mohr was previously a fashion editor for various European magazines before turning towards l’art de la décoration and we were in immediate agreement on the importance of both respecting creative rights and that of taking time to do things well. I saw first hand how her shaped eye had lead her to make such pieces as a giant suspension lamp built around a vintage industrial flour shifter or folding chairs recovered in fabric that bread had been baked in. Inventive, textural, grounded and quietly stunning. My heart went pit a pat.
She also showcases some of the bright lights of the region – literally in the case of the work of Vox Populi, a personal favorite – and beyond, including the most sumptuous cashmere and yak (yak!) blankets that I have ever seen, which were handmade by a pair of brothers in Nepal.
I believe that I have found a new favorite antiques store in Provence. That Bénédicte is such an interesting host only makes the visit all the more worthwhile. It was a birthday gift for the eyes, one to delight a certain aesthetic and longing for the past, all while opening the door to confidently looking towards the year ahead.
I will take everything, please.
Have a wonderful time, Lyn! There is another boutique that is not antiques but contemporary objects called Les Affaires Etrangeres that you might enjoy too.
If you get this, you might want to try Les filles des vignes or Le comptoir du 7 for lunch. 🙂
My girlfriends and I are in Uzes and going antiquing tomorrow. Thanks for the tip, we'll go there first thing!–Lynn at Southern Fried French
How wonderful that you are a leo! My friend Romy and her family lived in Uzes last year to have a break from Australia and loved it! x
Sister! You know as well as I that we need…nada! We don't have room for what we already have. But oh how I loved it. And thanks for the compliment but these photos were truly taken in two seconds…it was my bday after all. 🙂
I am so glad that you have it too Loree! And trust me, in Provence, a bread bowl that big would be a pricey collector's item.
Just read this now – OMG!!!! Whoa – is this place YOU or what??? I can see how you want (must have) everything in this store: the quilt, room-divider/screen, desk??? Patina everywhere? Bee-yoo-tee-ful!!!! Is everything tres expensive? Otherwise, methinks it's time to splurge there! Lovely stuff, and lovely photos (by my lovely sister).
That big, bowl-like structure in the third photo reminds me of something similar that my great-grandma used to use to make the dough for the daily bread. It's quite a huge piece and it is now on top of the well in my yard, filled with plants. It was too big to put anywhere else but I am so glad to have it. It looks like you've discovered a wonderful antiques store in Uzes,
You are absolutely right R and it is a comment that touches me more than you know…merci…I know what an amazing man I have in my life! 🙂
Ahhh, I didn't! Because I woke up with a cold this morning! I am fighting it with zinc and oops a little red wine. 😮
And I know that you have an amazing eye as I have seen it in your work – we could open a shop together!
Oh I am hoping so too, Teresa! 100 degrees at this time of year seems a bit…unfair. But soon you will be in the South of France and the weather will hopefully be perfect. It is the best time of year to come but you probably already know that. 🙂 I don't know where you will be but there is also a great depot-vente just outside of Eygalieres. If you type that in the search section on the right, it will give you the info!
Merci Belle Catherine! And I only took…photos! heehee
That is for sure, Edgar. But it was fun to not even be looking this time, just enjoying. 🙂
Isn't that the coolest part? 🙂
oh, Heather my heart made also pit a pat (b.t.w. I learn so many new vocabularies by reading especially your blog)
and I would take nearly the most of these beautiful antiques. Even it was a birthday gift just for your eyes, you know
that the happiest people do not have everything, they just make the best of everything and you both are really
good in that. On that day when everything would have gone according your plans, Remi never would do a swift turn and luckily landing in Mdm. Leuwers shop. That's the instinct of an artist.
En effet, il doit avoir le pif pour trouver un tel trésor, ton Remi!
And Madame Leuwers-Mohr seems to have it too, if I look at the colour combinations. Very nice, especially the darkpurple matching the rough wooden surfaces.
I am still hoping to end up with a similar carreer or trade in the area. (;
And of course in autumn it is still warm enough but not as hot as in summer when you catch a cold in stepping out of the car soaked wet to walk into a fridge-like supermarket. o: How do you deal with this?
I generally don't every comment, though I have followed you so long. I am so excited that I will be shopping south France in a few weeks myself and this post reminded me why I love the wonderful shops there. I must choose what I really love the most, in order to have room for it in my return. And that is not an easy task. I am hoping fall weather will come soon to our 100 degree days in Oklahoma.
A belated happy birthday Heather…what a delight and find…did you take everything? 😉 xx
Buy one and return another time. Oscillation of choices between the many desirables objects may give one headache or pleasure. Returning back will always remain a pleasure.
Sans doute it très jolie! I love how they have blended and repurposed all of these exquisite finds.
Such a trouvaille! If I could have taken home anything, it would have been the giant yak blanket…the softest thing ever…like being wrapped in a womb!
Hi Rebecca! *waving* So very happy to have you here too. 🙂 And yep, I have to say that I was pretty freaked out by the crowds in Uzes and I LIVE in Provence. But Uzes was never that crowded except on market day…it was craaaazy crowded. Like "Let's go to Disneyland" crowded. And yep, it is dead in winter save at Christmas when it is super lovely and as an ex-NYer I prefer it that way too!
Hooray!!!!!
Isn't she amazing?!? Plus, that would mean some scary member of the FN won't buy her! Bwhaha!
I agree with you whole- heartedly about that. They are the best seeds to plant…
You are a blazing Joan of Arc if ever there was one! And ps. I played her too…onstage…
Thanks Rebecca for that! And Gretel, Bénédicte makes those bags so if you like them, contact her… 🙂
Especially as we are decorating the house, it was great to see some inspiration!
I am so excited to see the light change – September is usually – I said usually! – the most beautiful month here. I can't wait. 🙂
Don't tell anyone…shhh…but I am happy that summer is on its way out. I love autumn! And want away…it is ok to dream!
Oh, fabulous! I would be hard pressed to depart without something in hand. And "depuis toujours" is indeed the ideal name for this lovely "trouvaille."
St Quetin la Poterie is the town you are thinking of….just a lovely place!
I love Uzes, it really is my favorite place on the planet. But over the years it has been sad to see it get more and more and more crowded. (on a Monday? yikes) I am only there in May and June, so I miss the worst of it, and my friends tell me that it is dead in the winter, which as a New Yorker, appeals to me. So glad you found this lovely shop, it is one of many where you can lose yourself in the past. and before I forget…HAPPY BIRTHDAY! ( aka backstageopera )
Must have the monumental Jean d'Arc painting and I'm coming back to get it! XXXXX
And I wish you all that you can take of it, even if the 'all' is only delight and memories. That's good enough to start with.
This was all a plot so I could say Happy Birthday to you ! Did you see me wink in the big painting in the first photo? Joan, of Florida …..and Arc.
Could you please wrap up and send over one of those lovely artist-paint-splattered bags for me please?!!
We went to Uzes a long time ago and loved it! I remember a wonderful little nearby town full of pottery…even the road gutters and street sign were made of pottery and the peeling colour-sated walls that lined the laneways were just lovely!
Beautiful patina. Bénédicte certainly has an eye. What a lovely bit of serendipity on your birthday.
I can see WHY!!!
A new haunt……….perfect for the BIRTHDAY GIRL!
Fall is in the air here in Northern California………….I'm not ready but hey as you said, FALL is good too!
Oh, my, oh my! I will take it all, too, please. Doesn't she have a good eye? This is a pure example of why objets are so important to people. I was taught never to say it, but…I want, I want! Beautiful, Heather. How did the end of summer come so quickly, again?