Contrasts in Provence, part two

“You do me an honor.” I turn to face a young man advancing towards me with a smile. It takes a moment for me to realize that I am photographing what must be his home. And in fact, I am even photographing his painting, that of an odd creature that catches my attention every day as I pass  on my walk with the dogs. It decorates a flower-box hanging above a cobble-stone passage, mere steps from the Arena.
“I have always wondered what this little guy means,” I stammer out. It is not often that conversations are started between strangers in Arles. “Ah, he is the God of the Bulls.” His French has a Spanish accent. I widen my eyes in surprise and so he continues. “You see, he glows like the sun. And here, ” he points to scraggly traces leading off on the right hand side,”these are the spirits of all of the bulls that were killed in the Arena.” We both turn to look to where the souls had come from, the stone arches rising to the sky. “They come to the God of the Bulls and make him strong.” I see the red behind the figure, the dark red of blood. “And so you have him here…on your house…” I try to find the words, “to protect you?” 

There is a pause. That wasn’t quite what I meant to say but between his accent and my own, there is something lost in the air, hanging. But we look at each other and nod. I nod again, we wish each other “Good Evening” and I turn to go.

Camera in hand, I continue my path but my thoughts are elsewhere. I remember that le Feria de Pâques, the Easter Bullfights is fast approaching.
There will be more souls for the God of the Bulls soon.

36 comments

  1. Nope, same ol' camera…just better light! And shhh…most of these were taken on "program" not manual! 😮

  2. Oh as you can imagine, I am with you two here! National Heritage Status!?? Yeah that is definitely crazy.
    Though I slightly remember that during the last years some political party in Spain (or France too? I can't remember ) was close to forbid bullfights. But the money aspects must have won as usual! And since then nobody questions it anymore.

  3. Oh Heather, I am so sorry not to have found the time to write something to your wonderful previous posts. And I always wanted to answer to some of your answers but was still too busy.

    But that does not stop me from daydreaming: What would you say if you had four walls in a tiny photo gallery to show in Cologne? And a tiny little publication, low budget production?

    I can't promise anything but I love the idea and am stretching my tentacles… It would just be so interesting to fill up a room with your work and how to bring the story and image together.

    (Funny, I just saw that Jeanne already asked you for another collaboration (: Thats cool!)

    Like the reflection of the coloured window in the dark window a lot and as always the story.

    Je n'aime pas la foule non plus… Et j' espère que tu peut t'en fuir!

  4. I'm trying to remember if I knew that you went to one of the bullfights??? Yowza – that's intense! Trying to understand is very admirable; glad now you skidaddle out of town! The spirits of the bulls… : (. Beautiful photos as always; I would pay good money for a print of the flower carving on the door! Talented sister!

  5. Love the conversation and focusing on the details through your lens. I've never seen a bullfight (and don't want to), but I also feel dread at what I know is coming your way.

  6. Well spotted, Edgar (no surprise there)…that contrast too was intentional…

  7. Hello Dr. Mike (I love Janey's nickname for you). Well, you will be here soon! You will see that the weather is divine. Le tauromachie is not…something that I can believe in…although if you see above, I did go to decide for myself. And yes, when we were younger, we used to go to the bodegs, especially Les Andalouses on Thursday night with the locals. Alas, since the manade that sponsors that particular bodega were also the host to the giant regional FN meeting a few months back, I will no longer attend. And I saw the setup for the March 1st gig – I find it very odd. Kids and bulls. And I have mentioned the Courses Camarguaises but still…not my thing. I am rooting for the cultural development of Arles to help bring in money (and yes, I know that some restaurant owners say that they do 1/4 of their business between the Ferias) that is not so reliant on killing animals. That said, I hope to have my post up about the Fondation Van Gogh tomorrow. It is exceptional, really beautiful and very, very positive.
    Travel safely! Arles awaits…
    H

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