“You do me an honor.” I turn to face a young man advancing towards me with a smile. It takes a moment for me to realize that I am photographing what must be his home. And in fact, I am even photographing his painting, that of an odd creature that catches my attention every day as I pass on my walk with the dogs. It decorates a flower-box hanging above a cobble-stone passage, mere steps from the Arena.
“I have always wondered what this little guy means,” I stammer out. It is not often that conversations are started between strangers in Arles. “Ah, he is the God of the Bulls.” His French has a Spanish accent. I widen my eyes in surprise and so he continues. “You see, he glows like the sun. And here, ” he points to scraggly traces leading off on the right hand side,”these are the spirits of all of the bulls that were killed in the Arena.” We both turn to look to where the souls had come from, the stone arches rising to the sky. “They come to the God of the Bulls and make him strong.” I see the red behind the figure, the dark red of blood. “And so you have him here…on your house…” I try to find the words, “to protect you?”
There is a pause. That wasn’t quite what I meant to say but between his accent and my own, there is something lost in the air, hanging. But we look at each other and nod. I nod again, we wish each other “Good Evening” and I turn to go.
Camera in hand, I continue my path but my thoughts are elsewhere. I remember that le Feria de Pâques, the Easter Bullfights is fast approaching.
There will be more souls for the God of the Bulls soon.
Let me know, Jeanne. You know I would be happy to participate!
More than that, Janey.
Let's hope so, DA.
Good, that was the point! And why this is another in the "Contrasts" series. Last year, tauromachie was given National Heritage status…
Tracy, if you have time to click on the link in the text towards the end you will read that we went to one. As people who have travelled all over the world covering traditions and tribes we have seen some rather extreme stuff and so wanted to see it from that point of view and to understand. I won't go back. As much as I could have appreciation for the artistry of the toreador, the killing is senseless and brutal.
Those that are listed as "Courses Camarguaises" do not involve killing. Events during the Feria, including the Corrida, do.
the charm of chance encounters. To walk is human, to converse is divine.
I felt dizzy looking at the narrow almost-seemed infinte alley (beautiful photo) and the rare shdows of parallel lines.
The artist has a bull for adornment?
Gorgeous contrasts. I think you need an artist's plaque on your door. 😉
Hi Heather,
We will be arriving on Saturday afternoon. A week to chill before the Feria; in fact I prefer the quieter times in Arles, even the first week of Les Rencontres is too much. I recall you mentioning about leaving town when the hordes invade. But its easter break here and one of us teaches and is off for vacation. Next year my work partner wants the time off with her child, so we will alternate and I will miss the hordes in my front yard. Bullfighting is very controversial, but when you think about what the romans did in the Arena…. I have met many locals who just ignore it and many who are afficionados; also quite a few "Parisians" who come down. Did you stay and visit Bodegas when you first lived in Arles? Some of them have generations dancing classically together (Eglise Freres Precheurs) and the Ave Maria is beautiful. Some locals who avoid the bullfights still wish that Arles could afford to bring more well known matadors…its a matter of cost, and people appreciate the euros it potentially brings to town. Did you see the ecole taurine exhibition the weekend of march 1st, the kids, even a female, future matadors in the "ring" with a baby bull on Place du Forum? I saw Sunday's event as I was moving stuff around all day to make room for the work to be done in the kitchen and preparing to leave the next day. Also have visited Gimeaux where the kids were playing in a ring with the young bulls. All about the same hormonal levels. Tough beasts, naturally dangerous. I ramble. Have you told your readers about the course Camargaise (Bull Games above?)
Its has been wonderful to view your site regularly. Hope we can meet soon.
And Hello David Terry!
Mike
Love a good wander Heather and when you have wonderful encounters, all the better! As always, your eye for detail is perfection. It gave me an idea, wouldn't it be fun for those of us living around the world, who see another world in the detail, to connect through a series of posts, an artistic journey with photographs. I can think of a few already. Might be fun…the wheels are turning, I will come back to you on that one. See..you have done it again, always inspiring me! ? Thank you!!