While trying to describe my blog yesterday evening, I found myself at a loss for words and juggling the air with empty hands as if digging for an answer. “Is it about…Provence?” my interlocutor inquired helpfully but still I hesitated and finally coughed out, “Well, not really in a touristy kind of way.” And then there is today’s post. Pretentious goose.
But there is a reason. For while most of you know that I avoid covering our markets here in fear of the cliché plague, when my Mom was asked recently if she there was any particular subject that I should write on, she didn’t hesitate in requesting, “Food.” Who can blame her? She will take the plane just to see my smiling face and to sit at our table. And she is always, always right.
So, this morning, as the sun was shining brightly and I was feeling sprightly 😉 I decided to set aside what I had prepared to publish. Instead, I grabbed my wee Canon G12, hung it around my neck Cartier-Bresson style and blended into the crowds of Arles’ Saturday market, purportedly the largest in all of Provence.
For as long as anyone can remember, this particular experience has been about equal parts flanerie and the products one purchases to pile into le panier.
Of course, all of the usual suspects can be found, such as mountains of glistening olives…
…cheeses of every size shape and date…
…the freshest fruits of the season…
…and treats to make one’s teeth ache…
…such as tarte tatin…
…or a rainbow variety of spongy macarons.
The eggs, whose centers glow warmer than the sun, are bijous unto themselves.
It can be a lot to take in.
But I am always drawn to the surprises, such as this organic stand tended by Raitetsu Jinno who came to Provence a year and a half ago from Japan.
His greens are all edible emeralds but my favorite is the Wasabina, which is indeed the leafy equivalent to its sushi condiment counterpart.
I sail past the pricey fish stands to head directly to the producer from nearby Sete. I love that he has razor-clams, bulots, palourdes, spiky sea-urchins and shrimp fresh off the boat from Madagascar…
…but most that his small oysters from Bouzigues are only 3.80€ the dozen! They are Remi’s weekend treat.
I tend to sample the ginger flavored felafel as I walk but today the line was simply too long. Most were waiting to snatch up freshly fried accras, balls of pureed salt cod and pinky-sized crisps of phyllo-wrapped goat cheese.
There are also puffs or oriental pastries…
…delights created by the North African community present in Arles…
…as well as spices from all around the world such as the mélange du Sorcier or “witches mix.” No, I didn’t buy it. Wait, what do you mean by asking such a question?
I admit that there are days when I am simply not up to face the crowds…
…the jostling and old ladies cutting in front of me in line, their caddies rolling over my toes.
No wonder so many stop to have a coffee with a furry friend…
…or taste a sample of local wines…
…ending up at the Bar du Marché, where if you order a bottle of the house wine for 10€, they will choose to look away if you pull out your market goodies to nibble on.
Once restored, the hunt continues.
I have learned the hard way that whatever amount of money I have on me, that is exactly what I will spend.
Best to get the necessities first…
…or they might not make it home at all.
But there are always plenty of options for when I don’t feel like cooking. My favorite stop (and what we will be eating tonight) is the Vietnamese stand for nems to wrap in lettuce and mint. I skip the pizza and the paella sellers but was tempted by this riz forestier, rice topped with peas, mushrooms and smoked porc.
And of course, there is always roast chicken. It is easy to know whose is the best – just look for the longest line!
But what makes the Arles market so especially interesting is that less than half the vendors are dedicated to food.
The rest sell items that are either traditional to the region…
…steeped in Arles’ own unique heritage…
…or not.
Without fail, I am drawn to two items – the mini-oliviers in their own clay pots…
…and lavender to transform any home into the essence of Provence.
I know how very lucky I have been to have so much of muchness, another spring signifier (although Remi keeps reminding me that officially spring is a week away) well within reach. I know that I will miss being able to stroll there and back with such ease – even if I do draggle home under the weight of having bought far too much!
And so, while I really enjoyed myself, it was also an unusual feeling today, taking in this market, my market, like a tourist. I could see that some of my go-to vendors were looking at my snapping with raised eyebrows. “I have a blog, ” I would explain, with some slight embarrassment. “Oh, really,” they would enquire, “what is it about?”
Have a lovely rest of your weekend everyone.
How will you cope?!? It is called "Trader Joes" dear girl!
One thing is certain: it will be a lot smaller…if there even is a local market at all! And another: that they will have to learn that I am a local so as to stop charging me double! 😮
Yes! I remember seeing the photographs from his book in some magazines when it first came out. Thank you for the reminder because it was all amazing. Hmmm…maybe I need to buy it? 🙂 He is an incredible photographer. For Vogue, he covers a lot of amazing homes but always really celebrates the people that live there too – within their context. But we have also seen some of his more "artistic" work shown here at the Rencontres. I have never met him but have seen him here sometimes – you know me, too shy to say hello!
His house looks amazing from what I have seen of it and I love that it is on a really unassuming place – you would never know what mysteries lie behind the facade!
And really? It was only two weeks ago that you were here? It seems like much has happened since then for me too. How I loved meeting you both, I'll say it again…
Bisous,
H
PS. Yes, tons of sunshine here…
I know! In NYC I would pay the same price for ONE as I do for a dozen here…I have also heard that NZ oysters are mighty tasty though…
Me too! hehehehe
When they first arrive, everyone goes crazy and buys too many because they forget that we will have them for months! 🙂
Now that is very, very kind of you, wonderful DA. Made my day. Thank you.
Unfortunately, we didn't get down to Arles or the Camargue on this trip, although I had the best intentions to do so. The weather was fantastic and we took full advantage of the sunny weather. The markets are one of our favorite things about Provence and we have heard great things about the Arles market. We got to the Vaison market twice, Saint Remy and Richerenches markets once each. Lots of fun. Hope you are doing well. How's the house hunting coming along?
Oooh, I wish that I could make that happen too!
Really Gillian? I always fear they are cheesy…and yet I gobble up your ig market photos so happily so I am being silly…