While trying to describe my blog yesterday evening, I found myself at a loss for words and juggling the air with empty hands as if digging for an answer. “Is it about…Provence?” my interlocutor inquired helpfully but still I hesitated and finally coughed out, “Well, not really in a touristy kind of way.” And then there is today’s post. Pretentious goose.
But there is a reason. For while most of you know that I avoid covering our markets here in fear of the cliché plague, when my Mom was asked recently if she there was any particular subject that I should write on, she didn’t hesitate in requesting, “Food.” Who can blame her? She will take the plane just to see my smiling face and to sit at our table. And she is always, always right.
So, this morning, as the sun was shining brightly and I was feeling sprightly 😉 I decided to set aside what I had prepared to publish. Instead, I grabbed my wee Canon G12, hung it around my neck Cartier-Bresson style and blended into the crowds of Arles’ Saturday market, purportedly the largest in all of Provence.
For as long as anyone can remember, this particular experience has been about equal parts flanerie and the products one purchases to pile into le panier.
Of course, all of the usual suspects can be found, such as mountains of glistening olives…
…cheeses of every size shape and date…
…the freshest fruits of the season…
…and treats to make one’s teeth ache…
…such as tarte tatin…
…or a rainbow variety of spongy macarons.
The eggs, whose centers glow warmer than the sun, are bijous unto themselves.
It can be a lot to take in.
But I am always drawn to the surprises, such as this organic stand tended by Raitetsu Jinno who came to Provence a year and a half ago from Japan.
His greens are all edible emeralds but my favorite is the Wasabina, which is indeed the leafy equivalent to its sushi condiment counterpart.
I sail past the pricey fish stands to head directly to the producer from nearby Sete. I love that he has razor-clams, bulots, palourdes, spiky sea-urchins and shrimp fresh off the boat from Madagascar…
…but most that his small oysters from Bouzigues are only 3.80€ the dozen! They are Remi’s weekend treat.
I tend to sample the ginger flavored felafel as I walk but today the line was simply too long. Most were waiting to snatch up freshly fried accras, balls of pureed salt cod and pinky-sized crisps of phyllo-wrapped goat cheese.
There are also puffs or oriental pastries…
…delights created by the North African community present in Arles…
…as well as spices from all around the world such as the mélange du Sorcier or “witches mix.” No, I didn’t buy it. Wait, what do you mean by asking such a question?
I admit that there are days when I am simply not up to face the crowds…
…the jostling and old ladies cutting in front of me in line, their caddies rolling over my toes.
No wonder so many stop to have a coffee with a furry friend…
…or taste a sample of local wines…
…ending up at the Bar du Marché, where if you order a bottle of the house wine for 10€, they will choose to look away if you pull out your market goodies to nibble on.
Once restored, the hunt continues.
I have learned the hard way that whatever amount of money I have on me, that is exactly what I will spend.
Best to get the necessities first…
…or they might not make it home at all.
But there are always plenty of options for when I don’t feel like cooking. My favorite stop (and what we will be eating tonight) is the Vietnamese stand for nems to wrap in lettuce and mint. I skip the pizza and the paella sellers but was tempted by this riz forestier, rice topped with peas, mushrooms and smoked porc.
And of course, there is always roast chicken. It is easy to know whose is the best – just look for the longest line!
But what makes the Arles market so especially interesting is that less than half the vendors are dedicated to food.
The rest sell items that are either traditional to the region…
…steeped in Arles’ own unique heritage…
…or not.
Without fail, I am drawn to two items – the mini-oliviers in their own clay pots…
…and lavender to transform any home into the essence of Provence.
I know how very lucky I have been to have so much of muchness, another spring signifier (although Remi keeps reminding me that officially spring is a week away) well within reach. I know that I will miss being able to stroll there and back with such ease – even if I do draggle home under the weight of having bought far too much!
And so, while I really enjoyed myself, it was also an unusual feeling today, taking in this market, my market, like a tourist. I could see that some of my go-to vendors were looking at my snapping with raised eyebrows. “I have a blog, ” I would explain, with some slight embarrassment. “Oh, really,” they would enquire, “what is it about?”
Have a lovely rest of your weekend everyone.
A furry creature and you know which one! 😮
We know how lucky we are Jackie. And I love how you "pretend"!!
Merci, Merci et Merci! Your post took me right back to the first time we "discovered" the Arles market. It was an overcast October day and we were driving from Aix to Montpelier. When I saw the road sign for the Arles exit, I told my husband we Must stop and visit Arles. I had Van Gogh on my mind, but little did I know there was something more beautiful awaiting us. We parked on the street and wandered into the Saturday market. I have been to any number of markets in the South of France (Aix-en-Provence comes to mind), but none is as wonderful as the one in Arles! It had EVERYTHING(the flowers, the animals–LIVE chickens & rabbits, the FOOD–oh my!) and it was all beautiful. Then we wandered to the Merry-Go-Round. It was like a dream. Your photos take me right back there! Thanks for the Memories!
Wonderful! It is always exciting to read about food in any capacity – the markets are one thing I know I will miss if/when we leave France. How will I cope? Glad you posted this! 🙂
Thank you, Heather, for this wonderful treat. I am so glad you took us along to your market! So much muchness, indeed. You know that one of the things that charmed me about Provence was the abundance and freshness of food at the markets, something I wish we had more of here at home (even though all things considered, Seattle has a strong market community). I am imagining what your next market will be like… who you will meet. Maybe it will be a bit more relaxed, a little less crowded. I'm sure it will be wonderful!
XOXO
Who is that Strawberry Thief? A furry creature or a gifted Photogapher?
Oh I remember all that as if it was just yesterday. In fact it is now two weeks ago that I was there myself but it seems already very far away.
And yes I remember the crowds strolling over that market. Merchands in bustling activity. You better be quick, determined and express yourself precisely if you want to buy your products sans être piègé comme une "touriste".
And one really has to concentrate on what you really want to buy in the first place because one really is much too distracted by all those delicious offers.
After buying our food for the week, I had to lay down for one hour! J'étais é-p-u-i-s-é-e. (comme disent les Française)
And I am always a bit sad, not to have the possibility to buy food like on those french markets. Though I must admit this market is different from the ones I saw In France. I had the impression the saturday was a "major national festivity". (; It may be due to that market that some of the food and wine stores were closed on monday!
Thank you for that beautiful souvenir!
By the way, talking about a book, I need to tell you sonething (: Last year in December, I ordered a book, just because the description sounded very promising: Photographs of Interiors of Artists and Art Dealers houses, taken by a "celebrated Vogue Photorgrapher". (I am ignorant enough not to have known the latter)
The book never came. When I was in Arles, I got the message that the book finally arrived. Back at home I was very enthusiastic about that fine book. The finest paper, perfect reproductions, the generous size…
I found out the book was released in 2013 by Rizzoli, the Photographer is Francois Halard, who was born in Arles and still has a house there, which`s interiors were also part of the book. It is really very much worth looking at!
Hope you are well and have a lot of sunshine!
A delightful excursion and market adventure. I would have no need to cook if I had access to your market. How lovely that would be …for a while 😉 . I paid the equivalent of 15 Euros for a dozen New Zealand oysters last week. They were divine but ……
Oh yum! I'm drooling over those cheeses!
Clare x
What a market! It looks like you can buy about anything your tummy could wish for. I too am in agreement with the others about the strawberries. There is something so tempting about them. I always find them the hardest to resist.