Let the games begin!
One thing is certain for 2014…we are going to have to move out of our current apartment before the end of June. So that gives us six months to cast our net far and wide to find something. Should we rent or buy? How far away from Arles could we stray due to Remi’s work projects? Both of these questions remain undecided but we know from experience that the best thing to do in such circumstances is to dive in and start swimming…
Remi came across a property in the tiny village (and I do mean tiny) of St. Hilaire d’Ozilhan, not far from Uzès. We both were surprised by the gorgeous Renaissance architecture present in many of the homes. Would that be the case for the house we were to visit?
Well, as the garage (which we would make a fantastic atelier for Remi) dates to 1725, we knew that things were off to a good start.
The charm of the spiraling staircase in the entry was undeniable.
The house hadn’t been lived in for years, one of several properties that had been “collected” in the area by a foreign owner who was now selling off the lot. And so cobwebs drooped and the stone walls had sucked up a fair amount of humidity but nothing that a good airing out couldn’t cure. And speaking of walls, well, look at all of the unusual curves crying out one of my very favorite words: patina.
And the vaulted ceiling in the kitchen! Pitterpat, pitterpat. Oh my. It is far more beautiful than my flash-crammed photos portray (our visit was rapid fire and that shows in the “photography”–my apologies!). But I think that you can imagine what it would look like with a little love and care…
…the same can be said for the small, walled in courtyard. Yes, that glass covered archway spans two floors. Could it have been part to a church? Read on…
The upper level consists of two connected rooms. In the first is an impressive fireplace and the floor is covered by the most ancient stone dallage that I have ever seen in a home, anywhere…
…plus some truly interesting built in “shelves” that must have been either doorways or windows at another period.
The second room has similar fascinating architectural details, such as this alcove made out of what appears to be a former bassin.
But the pièce de résistance is another, even more impressive fireplace. Take a look at the carved stone supports beneath the mantel. They most certainly look like the portals of a Romanesque church entryway to me! Incroyable.
Opposite, a very large glass window overlooks the courtyard.
Now, this photo has been provided by the real estate agent. Do you see the white square on the floor on the left? That is a trapdoor that leads up to the uppermost level from below. This entire floor has yet to be renovated, as you can tell!
From the outside, the house has a very sober appearance, belying little of what lies within.
The verdict? Well, if you remember the title, this goes into the “almost” category. It is not for us. As crazy as we both were for many of the details, one does not buy a house for details! And it really reminded us strongly of our previous apartment in the 17th century hôtel particulier in Arles. It too had a walled-in garden that left us craning to search for the sun. As exceptional as it was, lack of light was the main reason why we left. The feeling here – a weighty boxed in one – is exactly the same. Plus, it just isn’t practical for us. If we converted the upper floor into a bedroom and bath, that would still mean only one bedroom, which, while fine for us (given that the garage could have been Remi’s office, a must), means that it would be impossible to resell.
So, voila! Now, I won’t show you every house that we visit (I won’t breathe a whisper about the two that we saw after this one) but this was too interesting, too original to resist. I can still never get over the layers of history that we live with in France. It is beautiful isn’t it?
Have a wonderful weekend everyone.
And I also would just like to say thank you for sticking with me these past few weeks while I have been away. I really thought that I would have lost readers and I didn’t. I most certainly appreciate your being here…un grand merci…
It is beautiful! And so interesting, all those details got my heart beating a little faster, too. But I totally agree that light is sooo important, so I can see why it wouldn't be right for you. How exciting (although stressful) to be on the hunt for a new home. Glad you have such a good sense of what you need in a house. Can't wait to see where you land! XOXO
No it isn't – still vagrants – just posted about it in fact!
Talk about fun! Thanks so much for taking us with you to explore these little treasures. I love your optimism and I imagine as you look through your photographs it will become clearer to you what you are looking for. I agree…it has so many charming details…with choices like this, you are bound to find the perfect spot. So glad you have six months to look. There is nothing worse than working on tight timing…you have room to breathe and explore. I am sure you and Remi will make the most of it.
Thank you for your lovely note and I am glad the card found you well. In regards to your questions…I am hoping for Paris in September…will keep you posted. Have a wonderful house hungint journey Heather…I am so looking forward to sharing it with you. xx
Mason is not that far a separation from Jackson where the Cascades is located and where Mrs. Abstract and I and our family lived. We were neighbors once and knew it only now.Or we could have seen each other before.
Carry on the way you are. I can't tell you how incredibly lucky you all are, to have the opportunity to look for such a thing as a home in France. I know that whatever you choose will be so beautiful. You have such an artist's eye for all the right ingredients. I am a firm believer that there is a right place for everyone, hold out for yours. All the best in your search. And, please share all you can. It's heaven looking at your fabulous pictures. Love to you and your lovely family 🙂
When we did our search for a house that ended in Sablet, one of the semi-finalist was a house in St. Hilaire d'Ozilhan. We like that area a lot. I recommend patience and don't jump till you find the perfect house. We checked out two hundred and visited more than 60, all in small villages.
There's nothing I love better than tours of old houses. So, please share with us. I love 'coming along'.
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Yes, PLEASE show us your "finds" – good and bad! I think that natural light is my number one need. Light lifts my spirits (especially in the winter months) and adds so much interest to rooms. We are currently renting a North-facing apartment (in London) – NEVER again. Minimum daylight :-((
It's true, isn't it? Well, I have had a LOT of responses both in the comments section and via email, so I got the hint!! 🙂 I even have one that I visited a few months back that I will pull out to share.