“Yes, yes but where do the locals go to eat in Arles?” This is a question that I am asked a lot, often with an arched eyebrow as if to imply “you know, not where they go.” The ‘they’ in this case being…les touristes.
Ah, to be a tourist. It is a charged word that everyone avoids with a wince. No one wants to travel as a fool, at the whim of guidebooks or Tripadvisor’s subjective ratings. Putting together a journey these days can be the equivalent of following a Hansel and Gretel trail of crumbs while avoiding the mean ‘ol witch in the oven.
Arles is no exception. Can one have a bad meal here, in the heart of Provence where fresh produce and ingredients are in bounty? Absolutely. As in shockingly bad or worse, a re-heated frozen dinner.
So where do the locals go? On one of my walks recently, I introduced the Cuisine de Comptoir as “where you should go have lunch every day of your stay in Arles.”
We first met Alex and Vincent, the charming proprietors, long before living in Arles and it would be a staple of each visit before our move down from Paris. I remember Vincent telling me back in 2003 (ten years ago!), that they were determined to offer quality-only dishes at reasonable prices that would be just as good for the local businessman in February as for the flanning tourist in July. And that is what they have done.
So what is on the menu? Tartines! Delicious grilled open face sandwiches on Poilâne bread (they recently had to close for the evening due to a delay in bread delivery) that range from a healthy tomato and mozzarella to my favorites, the duck and cantal cheese or…wait for it…foie gras. Each are accompanied by a rather giant salad of fresh greens or a bowl of house-made soup (I am particularly fond of their mint-infused gazpacho at this time of year) with a glass of wine or a café–all for either 11.50 or 13.50 Euros depending on how decadent your tartine is.
It is the best deal in town and it is little surprise that the Cuisine de Comptoir is packed all year ’round.
Don’t believe me? Just ask the locals…
Cuisine De Comptoir
10 rue de la Liberté
13200 Arles
Tel.: 04 90 96 86 28
PS. The tiramisu is not to be missed…
The only way to be a tourist? Why to be a cool one of course! This post is the first in a series inspired by one of Arles’ most fantastic new resources–The Cool Tourist map. This is the second year that Alexandre and Sébastien have put together a map that, “features the best places in town owned by friendly people only who will make you love this city as much as we do.” Perfect! I agree 100% with their selections of not only where to eat but also where to sleep and shop as well. For my posh friends discovering the other side of the Alpilles, there is also a map for St. Remy as well.
I hope it goes without saying that this is not a sponsored post in anyway, I am just spreading the joy of some awesome people and places in my little town of Arles…
That restaurant sounds fabulous. Especially the tiramisu… guess you could say, when it comes to dessert, tiramisu takes the cake. (Thanks loads. Now I want some…)
Thanks for sharing. This sounds like a great place to eat.
Jeanne! You're here!! On my to do list this week has been to send you an email! Oooh, I better hurry up!! Actually, I am going to pour myself a glass of wine and sit back down to do just that. It could be a lovely evening to sit out for dinner at la place des cardeurs–starting off in Aix is perrrrrfect!
And please DO gain five pounds–trust me, it will be worth it. 🙂
Well then we really need to get you here to Provence, ma belle D…oooh and yes maybe to stay for good…because taking your time is what it is all about in this neck of the woods.
And un grand merci for the encouragement to continue with this type of post. If you speak, I listen!
A belated welcome back to France, Michel!! And yes, do add this to your list–there are so many, many places here in Arles that just don't work for me but the CDC or 'La Tartine' as everyone in town calls it, is perfect.
Looks delicious, Heather. Can't wait to experience the flavors of Provence firsthand! We finalized the first leg of the trip – we'll spend a night in Aix so Mr. H doesn't have to drive until he's got a good night sleep, and then on to Moustiers Sainte-Marie for two nights before we meet up with our friends. I expect to gain at least 5 lbs on the trip! 😉 XOXO
Thrilled you're doing this sort of series, Heather. (I'm making a mental note. Oh, j'ai besoin de rentrer en France – eh oui – rentrer pas retourner…)
I can only imagine that being a tourist at your side would be illuminating – and fun. (I like being a tourist only when not prodded or rushes, and able to stay for long enough to get the feel of a place.)
My kind of place Heather. Unfortunately, we didn't make it to Arles despite all of our great intentions. There are two places near Sablet that serve Tartines, one in Gigondas and the other in Villedieu. I will keep this post in my file for places to try.
I do Jackie…I know that you are all foodies like I am! And you do the same thing too…
What a delightful post, Heather! You've added another reason (to my ever-growing list) to visit your wonderful town. . . you seem to know the way to these travelers' hearts is through our stomachs!