“Yes, yes but where do the locals go to eat in Arles?” This is a question that I am asked a lot, often with an arched eyebrow as if to imply “you know, not where they go.” The ‘they’ in this case being…les touristes.
Ah, to be a tourist. It is a charged word that everyone avoids with a wince. No one wants to travel as a fool, at the whim of guidebooks or Tripadvisor’s subjective ratings. Putting together a journey these days can be the equivalent of following a Hansel and Gretel trail of crumbs while avoiding the mean ‘ol witch in the oven.
Arles is no exception. Can one have a bad meal here, in the heart of Provence where fresh produce and ingredients are in bounty? Absolutely. As in shockingly bad or worse, a re-heated frozen dinner.
So where do the locals go? On one of my walks recently, I introduced the Cuisine de Comptoir as “where you should go have lunch every day of your stay in Arles.”
We first met Alex and Vincent, the charming proprietors, long before living in Arles and it would be a staple of each visit before our move down from Paris. I remember Vincent telling me back in 2003 (ten years ago!), that they were determined to offer quality-only dishes at reasonable prices that would be just as good for the local businessman in February as for the flanning tourist in July. And that is what they have done.
So what is on the menu? Tartines! Delicious grilled open face sandwiches on Poilâne bread (they recently had to close for the evening due to a delay in bread delivery) that range from a healthy tomato and mozzarella to my favorites, the duck and cantal cheese or…wait for it…foie gras. Each are accompanied by a rather giant salad of fresh greens or a bowl of house-made soup (I am particularly fond of their mint-infused gazpacho at this time of year) with a glass of wine or a café–all for either 11.50 or 13.50 Euros depending on how decadent your tartine is.
It is the best deal in town and it is little surprise that the Cuisine de Comptoir is packed all year ’round.
Don’t believe me? Just ask the locals…
Cuisine De Comptoir
10 rue de la Liberté
13200 Arles
Tel.: 04 90 96 86 28
PS. The tiramisu is not to be missed…
The only way to be a tourist? Why to be a cool one of course! This post is the first in a series inspired by one of Arles’ most fantastic new resources–The Cool Tourist map. This is the second year that Alexandre and Sébastien have put together a map that, “features the best places in town owned by friendly people only who will make you love this city as much as we do.” Perfect! I agree 100% with their selections of not only where to eat but also where to sleep and shop as well. For my posh friends discovering the other side of the Alpilles, there is also a map for St. Remy as well.
I hope it goes without saying that this is not a sponsored post in anyway, I am just spreading the joy of some awesome people and places in my little town of Arles…
Ahhhh, now I am going to bother you to come down until you do! Only 2 1/2 hours from Pareee on the TGVeee…
Hoping all is well with you too, married lady!
Bisous!!!
It is crazy in France of all places that it is getting to be a problem of restaurants serving frozen dinners! I can't believe it but it is true…so how awesome that there are great places like this that have stayed true to what they want to do and their customers.
Oh please, Mr. Laoch! You eat better than anyone I know!
He he he..I love the italicized final note. I find myself having to clarify that I find a place or product just super awesome, and it's not the establishment sending me a HUGE 50euros check to plug it on the blog!
I do hope one day to visit your dear Arles, in the meantime I will visit how I have been this past year — through you. : )
I hope all is well!
That sounds absolutely delicious!!! I LOVE being a tourist but agree that it is pretty annoying when you end up in a restaurant surrounding by the best food in the world and get, as you say, "frozen dinners". It has happened to me before and it sets a bad tone for the trip, which is why I always ask "where do the locals eat"!!! 🙂
I don't have any plans to be in Provence any time soon (very sadly) but I am happy for the recommendation of the restaurant AND the Cool Tourist!
Tartines! (makes jealous face)
Sister. That wasn't exactly subtle now, was it? 😉
First of all, that Cool Tourist is very, very muscular! What's up with that? Don't know, but I like it! Second of all, could the Cool Tourist recommend a good tour guide for Arles???? One who is charming, beautiful and super knowledgeable about Arles?? And could the Cool Tourist put a link to this blog post on their facebook page? And maybe mention the aforementioned amazing Arles tour guide?? Just wondering! Love, a big big big big big big fan. : )
N, don't be so controversial! 😉 Especially as I think of you as more of a traveller or an adventuress than anything!
I love being a tourist. Only reason I don't like guidebooks is bc I don't want to get mugged! But I like a parallel life not knowing what will happen and reconditioning ones eyes to see the world. This is making me want to visit Arles now Heather 🙂