How I am entranced by the swish of silk and shine of satins at the Fête des Gardians, held each year on the First of May in Arles. The women sway like tender reeds under the weight of their finery while the men clench their jaws as they guide their horses through the maddening crowds. We all gather and pull to catch glimpses of a past and present mingling, sighing wishes just for a little bit of better, a mist of more mystery. Our everyday garb says much of the times we are in–of uncertainty, of fatigue. So how wonderful to get lost in this particular dream.
While in years past (here and here), I have been swept up by the spectacle, I shifted focus, letting myself indulge happily in the beauty of the details, both masculine and feminine.
Can you hear the rustle and the horses neigh?
The drums beat out a Provençal tune of old.
Curious as to the what and the why’s?
From my first post on this splendid fête:
“While throughout France it is often when labourers hold protest marches to demand better conditions, here in Arles it is the Fête des Gardians. Extending south of town down to the sea, the Camargue is a large marsh land where bulls and horses roam free. They are watched over and cared for by les gardians, our answer to cowboys. Or actually, maybe the cowboys copied their French counter parts, for their Confrérie or Brotherhood, was formed in 1512 (and is the oldest of its kind) and has gathered every May Day for nearly the past five hundred years. A mass is held in the Major Church just behind the Roman Arena, at the end of which horses and riders are blessed in the name of St. George, their patron saint. For the occasion, everyone is decked out in their finest traditional Provençal costume, which was strictly codified by the Marquis de Baroncelli in 1817 and has been proudly adhered to ever since. Everything has its place–the way a woman’s hair is rolled, the pinned folds of the scarf on her shoulders, the placement of her jewellery, her shoes.”
Mille mercis for this beautiful post! Oh to be an Arlesienne on the 1st of May!
What exquisite details. It makes me feel like I was there. I tagged you in the Liebster award. Participation is, of course, optional.
What an interesting post and I love all the details. I'd like to quote a paragraph in my Wednesday's blogger round-up if I may.
I love the detail shots, and can almost feel the fabrics. Seeing the ladies ride side-saddle must have been splendid. Close-up and personal, this is way one should experience these things. Beautiful beautiful post, Heather. See you in Camelot.
Good post: it's nice sometimes to delve deeply in the details, to get lost in the trees and stop looking for the forest.
How utterly luminescent & tactile….how did you resist touching the folds if those glorious dresses? We have been five days in Uzes and are being slowly seduced by your part of the world….hopefully we can get a handle on what's on & where so we can smother ourselves in the history & culture & day to day life in another southern place! Rx
It is going to take us a long time I fear to be able to be in Provence at least once when each of the different festivals take place like the Fête des Gardians in Arles and the upcoming Transhumance in St. Remy and on and on. We return at the end of the month and we will be looking for festivals to attend. Thanks for sharing your beautiful pictures.
I don't think I've ever actually seen electric blue until this moment. That first blue dress will be burned on my brain for the rest of the day. Heather, you have an extraordinary gift for transmitting energy through images. Singular, friend.
The fabrices, the laces, the leather, the smallest details, all so beautifully photographed. What a treat! Thank you. ox, Gina
Thank you for posting your beautiful photographs.
They bring the brain to a good thought place. I hope one day you and yours dress in costume.