It has been quite a week, hasn’t it? I just finished a long, restorative yoga class on My Yoga Online (a phenomenal resource for expats or anyone that doesn’t have easy access to classes) and at the very end, my stomach finally released like a sigh. It had been clenched tightly for days and days. Now that it is nice and relaxed, all the better to tempt it with tasty things, don’t you agree? And so here is a lighter, off the cuff post to soothe the nerves. I’ll wait while you pour yourself a glass of something good, no rush.
In France, we call someone who loves fine food and wine gourmet. Think of that as being a foodie without the snobby connotations, Slow Food without the politics. Save that I think I have somehow gingerly tiptoed over that fine line into becoming…une gloutonne. Oops.
I will travel far and wide anywhere in the world to taste and savour, the Luberon being no exception. And I will flat out admit it, one of the most important reasons why I so enjoy our cabanon rental is that it is located on a point that is equidistant to all of the edible treasures that the region can offer. Crucially, it is less than a ten minute drive to Banon, namesake of the fragrant goat cheese that is wrapped in the autumn leaves of a chestnut tree and aged just long enough (only around twenty days) until it melts on your plate into pungent perfection. And as the French Wikipedia graciously suggests, it is quite fine with a slice of country bread and a touch of fig jam.
Stepping out of la fromagerie and across a square that is mignon comme tout, is La Brindille Melchio, which while also offering some nice cheeses (including a very good fermier sec that I would recommend), is far more heralded for its yard long saucisson, la brindille. Of course, I was obligated to try several–the sacrifices that I make for you all–and was especially taken with the one that was stuffed with? Yes, you guessed correctly, goat cheese.
So much hunger mongering was enough to work up a thirst. Fortunately, there are several charming cafés in Banon to offer a little haven of peace, just unfortunately not the one that I chose, as I was surrounded by several young men sporting mirrored sunglasses and fauxhawks crying out over last nights game of le foot as if it were la fin du monde.
Better then to hop in the Range Rover and toodle up to Sault, for one reason above all–to partake of the magnificent deliciousness on offer at the pricey but worth it boutique of Yves and Virginie.
Not only did Ben make a friend, I do believe that he would have been willing to hang out in front of the shop all day long (I am sorry but not even in France do they let dogs inside of epiceries)! Are you trying to decide which of the tasty items on the sign board appeals to you most? I know I was and was disappointed not to have tried the fascinating ginger and olive confit. Two flavours that I adore but do they go together? I have no idea. Will I find out next time? Hopefully. Not to mention that we were a little too early for truffle season…
I will say that we were not disappointed in their products and Remi, who was over the moon to find andouillettes that were made the old-fashioned way, even brought several kilos worth back to Arles. Ah, lucky me. And as I have said before, if you don’t know that word, by all means, do not look it up…
While beef is hardly the speciality of the region, we were so surprised by the low prices at the butcher’s that we decided to launch into one of our rare–as in a few times a year–tastings. So, um, since we have already declared that yes, I like to eat, we splurged on a ginormous côte de boeuf worthy of Manhattan’s finest chop houses.
And even less attached to the region but lest you think we are meat-chomping hooligans, Remi also served up a teriyaki Norwegian salmon (this is Europe after all) grilled à la plancha that was out of this world. Trying to assuage our guilt? Our bellies? Perhaps.
And for dessert? Well, thankfully we are not terribly sucré because really, after all of that cheese, what room remains? But even I couldn’t resist this gateau aux pommes that was fresh out of the wood-fired oven at the bakery attached to Le Chapeau Rouge. We also ordered Saturday night pizzas there and thoroughly enjoyed listening to the happy banter of the locals gathered around tables in the middle of the store while we waited for our order to come out of the oven. My choice? La Simiane with Banon goat cheese and insanely good local lavender honey. You see? Glutton!
Well, as they say here “tel chien, tel maître”–yes, the dog resembles his owner. So I will leave you with this image of Ben, intent on Remi’s plate and drooling so much that he has created a little hammock for the leaves below his chin.
Bon appétit et Bon Weekend!
Interesting pics Heather, especially of la fromagerie avec les saucissons and the plate of oozy runny cheese begging to be eaten! Always love it when you include a photo of Ben, he has such a handsome smiley face, even when he has leaves attached, which ain't important when the smell of food so close, demands absolute attention! Nice post! Cheers, Deborah – Melbourne.
Sister, all of that food looks and sounds delicious (YUM), but nothing beats the picture of Ben with a leaf in his drool!! I am SO glad that you caught that on camera!! Can't wait until you are here, eating yummy stuff with ME! : )
I read this in late afternoon after a swim. Swimming makes me inordinately hungry. Fortunately, there was no one around with a camera at the ready. Otherwise, they would have caught me in the act of drooling with envy. I went to the refrigerator and got a slice of the Manchego we buy at Costco. Doesn't come close the the wonderful cheeses one eats in France.
My consolation is that we are making homemade pizza for dinner tonight, complete with sauce made from tomatoes from our local organic farm that Paul cooked and then froze.
Yum!
I had just vowed to cut back on the eating and then read this. Perhaps that infamous 'tomorrow' would be a better time to start cutting back. Must go find something on which to nibble. . .
As always, Heather, you make me hungry… to be right there!!!
I hope it is a relaxing and delicious weekend.
I don't think I know anyone who doesn't like cheese. Some people are less adventurous than others & stick to the same old cheese without trying a new one. Must look out for the Banon wrapped in chestnut leaves, or is it just in your area ? Love the photo of Ben with the leaf hanging in his 'slobber' as we used to say about our Golden Labrador who sadly is no longer with us I miss her.
Have a lovely weekend…. Barbara
Oh my gosh. Heather, you are KILLING me. I just got back from the cheese monger in Pike Place Market, where I bought cheeses for a party this weekend. They are innocently sitting in the fridge… and must stay there until tomorrow night. Except after reading your post, I want to eat them now! It's going to take a heck of a lot of willpower to stay away.
Your photos are gorgeous! Glad you're feeling relaxed going into the weekend! And I wil definitely keep you posted on travel plans next summer. If I'm successful in channeling Ben's powers of persuasion, I would love to hear your suggestions, thank you!!! XOXO
Salivating!! Sumptuous pics. While you're in a foodie mood may I tempt you with an interview with Marcella Hazan? I don't normally do this (as in hijack my way into comments) but Marcella is 88 now and kindly agreed to do a piece with me via email. Forgive me if I've overstepped the mark. It's meant in the spirit of sharing and she is a cracker. x One day I'm going to head to your part of the world and indulge my way around the region too. That first cheese shot! ahhh more please …
Oh Ben, how sweet. Your writing made me hungry. I am a glutton for cheese too 🙂 Have a wonderful weekend.
Well, clearly, you, my friend, are not starving in la Belle France 🙂 I spotted some favorites of mine in this scrumptious post. By the way, who had le Vittel Menthe at the cafe in Banon? It has always been my go-to summer drink (I even bought some sirop de menthe online, Tesseire, bien sur, so I can make it here in Seattle…) As for les Andouillettes, what can I say? Guilty as charged! 🙂 Veronique (French Girl in Seattle)