Sweet Relief

If I have been posting less of late, it is for a very simple reason–it is too hot. My brain is in a state of suspended animation. For those of you from far away, please be patient with your French bloggers who are all in the midst of a canicule or heat-wave, one that has put several regions on high alert. I had already sweated my way through the last in 2003 when an estimated 15,000 people died. We now know to plan, to conserve our energy and to take special care of our furry friend, Ben. But there are still places to go and people to see, visitors to tend to. 
On our way home from a recent outing, we took a small country road that we had never travelled before–as we are wont to do–and came screeching to a halt at the sight of a gift from the heavens. A source or spring burbled in a shallow pool that had been created with old stones and lined with a paved gravel by some kind soul for the benefit of all. The water was icy cold, from deep within the earth.
“Do you think Ben can go in?” I asked. He had rolled in the dirt earlier in a desperate attempt to keep cool. A bath would do him good in more ways than one. “I don’t see why not,” Remi replied. Ben couldn’t seem to believe his good luck. He pranced about, lifting one paw then the next…

…and then sank down with a sigh. His eyes glazed over and he became very still.

I cast off my sneakers and sank in my toes. Remi joined me. 

We sat like that for some minutes, utterly content. The chill slowly worked its way up from our feet all the way to our brains until we felt completely restored.

Isn’t it lovely that such a small moment is one of my very favorites from this Summer?
Have a wonderful week everyone…

Terra Magazine

Hello everyone! I wanted to give a little heads up for my friends in Germany. Remi and I have a story in the current issue of Terra Magazine that will be on news stands through September. Covering a gorgeous twelve page spread, it concerns the  phoenix-like renovation former Imperial City of Huê in Vietnam. 

As I mentioned recently, we had a fantastic time covering our voyage up the Mekong River for Grands Reportages Magazine (I believe I need to make a “Past Adventures” post about it!). We stayed in the region after the cruise ended and with our own funds produced the story on Huê, which originally appeared in France for Figaro Magazine. Our time there was precious. For despite having been heavily bombed during the Tet Offensive in 1968, the monuments retained an innate grace even before UNESCO’s renovation had returned them to their former state of beauty. It was equally interesting to be in a former Imperial City at a time when the population was beginning to embrace the traditions of the past.


The ambiance was nothing short of magical. Here is the final paragraph of my article:

“A stream of images swirls past us as we zoom through the city’s streets on the back of a motorcycle. An elderly woman addicted to chewing betel nut flashes us a frightening black-toothed grin. A string of shops sell nylon wedding gowns as puffy as wearable marshmallows amidst internet cafés where every seat is fought over at lunchtime. Steam pours out of portable stands selling pho, the frothy noodle soup. A gentleman dressed in pyjamas proudly offers two perfect eggs for sale by candlelight at the night market. And always, there is a sense of time as moving both backwards and forwards with the flow of the traffic as it shifts for position. Perhaps it has taken over 30 years to arrive at this moment. For in Huê, the past is not a ‘Lost Time’ after all, but part of a present that is still evolving, zooming forward like the students on their bicycles into the future.”
©Heather Robinson

To see more of Remi’s lovely photographs on Huê: www.remibenali.com



L’Isle sur la Sorgue and birthday dreams

 
Expectations. Oh la, that word! It just keeps back and pinching me, hard. I feel like I am on a loop of learning that particular lesson over and over again.
Last year at this time, I wrote about how birthdays have always been a very big occasion in our family, as in blow-up balloon size. But at the time I had the deeply quieting realization that I was exactly where I needed to be and nothing could améliorer such a simply perfect day. And yet, two weeks ago the wheels started turning, “Where should we go? What should we do?” and most importantly “What should we eat?” I plotted and planned and all for naught. For on Saturday, everything went utterly awry and by accident, only when I had let everything go did I see an ad announcing that it was the first day of the Foire Internationale at L’Isle Sur La Sorgue, one of the largest antique fairs in the South of France! Interestingly enough, our last visit there was also a last minute decision, on Christmas Eve.
As Remi often says, “Life is always right.” We had an absolutely wonderful time.
Dreaming can be the best gift of all.

And while we were tempted by much, certainly both the starburst mirror and the elegantly drawn sanguine, again the unexpected won the day. We came across a stand run by a charming woman selling vintage sunglasses. A true collectioneuse, she knew the origins of everything that she had, all while taking the steps to replace worn lenses and dig out lots of glasses that had never been worn such as my sparklers below. Remi bought me two pairs, a wonderful gift that will be put to good use in my daily strolls here in sunny Provence. A silly goose I may be from time to time but that doesn’t prevent me from being a stylish one…
Thank you again to all of you that left wonderful Birthday wishes and emails! And so I step in to another year with hopes of learning more, appreciating all that I have and loving with an open heart…

Music for Mango House

 ®Jeanne Henriques – Collage of Life


Hello everyone! For today, something a little different and a post that has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with Provence. But music is the stuff of life, a subject very dear to my heart. When my friend Jeanne, whose incredibly inspiring blogs Collage of Life and Expat Diary: Vietnam–both of which are documenting her very recent move to Saigon–expressed interest in finding new music for her time there, I knew it was time to get out the DJ headphones! 

Remi and I had an exceptional experience in Vietnam. Saigon was the starting point for a cruise up the Mekong River to Cambodia. The feeling that stayed with me is that Vietnam is a land of incredible lushness with a vibrancy and kindness that cuts through the shadows of the past. Her new home has been painted a bright shade of mango (a surprise from her husband) and I tried to pick tunes that would waft well through the wide open verandas, both current and from long ago. Jeanne being the incredibly generous person that she is immediately suggested that I share the list with you. 

I hope that you enjoy! 

The song that I am currently obsessed with:
“Tease Me” by Lianne La Havas. I don’t love all of the rest of the album but there are some other bijous as well such as “No Room for Doubt”.
As well as:
Feist in a gorgeous video. Haunting is right!
For discovering new music:
Stereomood. I love that you can pick a mood! Isn’t that what listening to music is all about? I have found so many artists that I love including…
Colman Brothers. I love this album, especially “Some Other Wonder”.
As well as the last song that I was obsessed with (and still listen to when I am having trouble writing):
“1901” cover by Birdy.
Also found on Stereomood:
The Berlinist. I like all of the album but especially “Ollie Falls Asleep”. Soundcloud is another site that is wonderful for discovering.
Vincent Segal and Ballaké Sissoko. Chamber Music. If you don’t have this already, you will love it, I believe. Cello and kora played by two amazing artists.
Ali Farka Touré & Toumani Diabete. “Ali and Toumani”. This album has been out for a few years but is still a go to when I am in a bad mood.
This is a group that Remi and I have listened to a lot over the years. “Jazz” is a favorite tune but they have a new album out as well that I haven’t listened to yet.
This Japanese DJ/musician is another favorite. Amazing. Actually, here: http://youtu.be/HF5Eqvr7Qgk “Blue sky and yellow sunflower” a mashup with Claire de Lune…

Jean Sablon. Remi has been listening to some lesser known French singers from the 30s-50s and I am crazy for Jean Sablon.

“Stay the Same” by Bonobo featuring Andreya Triana. Actually the entire ‘Black Sands’ album could be wonderful.
“Do it again” by Shirley Horn because we all could use a dose of her fine voice now and again. One of my all time favorite chanteuse de jazz
And finally:
Don’t be held back by this being a French radio station as it has the most eclectic playlist on the planet! Within an hour, you can hear everything from Jeanne Moreau to the Black Keys to Wagner.

®Jeanne Henriques – Collage of Life

So there you have it! Wishing you all a wonderful weekend ahead. Tomorrow is my birthday, 43 here I come…Hooray!



Bluer than

…And I am not referring to any sort of Joanie Mitchell type of “Blue” but rather a sky that is bluer than blue. So much so that it is best not to scratch for the words but rather sigh out a hip then a hooray in sun-soaked daze. For time is turning; the blinding white has been squeezed out of summer’s fist, one that is opening and sprinkling gold suspended way up high. A promise of the light to come.

To follow photos on a single evening while roaming with camera in hand, looking up, up, up…

 

 

This is the sky to dream of when you hope for Provence. 

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