Where to eat in the Alpilles, L’Oustaloun

Undoubtedly, one of the greatest joys of summer in Provence is spending several hours sous le soileil leisurely dining at an outdoor café. A little bit of delicious, a touch of rosé and wonderful people-watching are guaranteed. And one of the most gorgeous spots to do so is on the place or town square of the small village of Maussane in the heart of the Alpilles. I think that I have finally have found my favorite restaurant there, one with an excellent rapport qualité-prix.  I had mentioned L’Oustaloun in A taste of summer some while back. So long ago that we were still in our last apartment and we had just had a garden party. Le sigh. But back to the happy bits…

…such as this so simple but so good it hurts chevre croustillant or tart goat cheese wrapped in a light phyllo and drizzled with…honey. Ooh. This was the starter for the menu du jour at only 17€…
…one followed by a plat of tender beef filets and cumin-spiced potatoes served with a divine garlic cream sauce for dipping. As I only have beef only a few times per year (after nearly twenty years of being allergic to all the crazy business that has been added to so much American beef), I want it to be perfect and yes, voila. This is comfort food folks, done well and so what more do you need for a relaxed afternoon? But I will be back for their more complex autumn/winter menu most certainly…
My Sister was absolutely delighted with her more reasonable and seasonable Planche Fraicheur–consider it a summer Best Of including gazpacho, jambon sec, more goat cheese plus a salad and crostini–at 18€ with a glass of wine included. She appreciated the quality of all of that was served as well as the dose of freshness on a hot summer day.
I never like to feel closed in on a terrace and in Arles our Place du Forum can be a bit of a circus with so much bustle and push. Not so at L’Oustaloun with a wide open view of the church with its random ringing bell, the swish of the plane trees and the sweet mist from the neighbouring fountain. Now, if you don’t feel the Provençal charm in such an environment, I am not sure where you will…

The service was flawless, old-school style. Never intrusive yet friendly and on top of the game. Mr. Ben was brought a giant bowl of water and well, of course, he had many bits served under the table. As you can see, he was equally pleased by our visit.
This lunch was took place on the last day of my Sister’s visit and what a fine experience it was. As I mentioned in the previous post, L’Oustaloun also has charming rooms at very reasonable prices. For anyone looking to truly immerse themselves in the experience of an authentic, albeit elegant Provençal village, look no further than this lovely address. 

L’Oustaloun
place de L’Église
13520 Maussane-Les-Alpilles
Tel.: +33 (0)4 90 54 45 57
www.loustaloun.com
Bon appétit! 

37 comments

  1. No, it is different. It is simpler and you will see less fusion (which I like) than in Paris. But there are so many small restaurants that are really reasonable and use super fresh products. So at times a tomato based salad here will taste a million times better than one in Paris, see what I mean?

    And do come down! It is only 2 and a half hours on the TGV and if you book in advance it is cheap! If you do, best before November so you can still have lunch outside. 🙂

  2. Did you enjoy Sous les Micocouliers? That has long been one of my favorites!

  3. Debra, this would have been right up your alley–along with Dylan of course! And after doing a bit of research, I think it is the tenderizers that made me so ill. I was raised in the middle west and so had my fair share of meat and potatoes until at some point in the 80s I just couldn't tolerate it anymore. Yes, to have truly organic meat (and in France all of those additives and hormones are illegal) just makes all the difference. I am still not pro-beef for the toll that takes on our planet but if you are going to have it, it should at least be as healthy as possible!

  4. Looks absolutely amazing…so wish I was there enjoying it as well…put it on my list…did Mr. Ben get a treat…

  5. Oh David, I haven't thought about Velveeta in years — it used to be a staple when I was growing up. My mom used it when she was making something exotic, like "tacos." And I agree there is no substitute for buying cheese from a French fromagerie. When we were in Paris last summer, my younger son, who speaks not one word of French (but is becoming fluent in Arabic) walked in and told the guy behind the counter to give us the best. He not only gave us some great cheese but told Karsten he wanted him to call or email and let him know how it was. It was of course delicious.

    Somehow, though, I have a feeling both in price and in quality, Heather is doing even better in Arles than we did in Paris.

  6. At least half the time I don't post because I'm just sort of gaaaaaah in awe of all your travels and environment and how lovely to have your brain tickled by all that history. And then other half of the time I don't post because I'm drooling and don't want to moisten the keyboard. Today is a dangerous combo of jaw dropping awwwwwe and overactive salivary glands. Yumm on all accounts.

  7. This maybe comfort food, but par excellence. I'll keep this in mind if and when I'm at your corner of the world. Haven't been back to France in over a decade. Food like this will bring me back. Beautiful pictures, and as someone else said at another blog, you should be paid by the Provence Office of Tourism for your excellent recommendations for where to go, do and dine in Provence. My regards to Mr. Ben. I'm such a dog person, stop by and not say hi to Ben! xx

  8. This all looks so delectable – not only the food, but that impeccable sky and surroundings.

    (I'm dreadfully "homesick" for France… You've compounded the problem with this post!)

    I think I'll go make myself a sandwich. With French mustard. (And dream a little…)

  9. I still have yet to head down to Provence and I'd really like to at some point. Your descriptions and photos really paint a charming picture. We're thinking of taking an autumn trip down there. If we do, I'll comb through your blog for recommendations!

    I hear the food is way better than it is in Paris. Is this true?

  10. I shall have to add L'Oustaloun to my list of places to try in the Alpilles. There are no shortage of great restaurants in that region. We happened to pass by Domaine Valdition and stopped in as I recall reading about it on a blog (yours) on our way to eat at Sous les Micocouliers in Eygalières. Stocked up on rosé wine, need to return though as we are out.

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