Undoubtedly, one of the greatest joys of summer in Provence is spending several hours sous le soileil leisurely dining at an outdoor café. A little bit of delicious, a touch of rosé and wonderful people-watching are guaranteed. And one of the most gorgeous spots to do so is on the place or town square of the small village of Maussane in the heart of the Alpilles. I think that I have finally have found my favorite restaurant there, one with an excellent rapport qualité-prix. I had mentioned L’Oustaloun in A taste of summer some while back. So long ago that we were still in our last apartment and we had just had a garden party. Le sigh. But back to the happy bits…
…such as this so simple but so good it hurts chevre croustillant or tart goat cheese wrapped in a light phyllo and drizzled with…honey. Ooh. This was the starter for the menu du jour at only 17€…
…one followed by a plat of tender beef filets and cumin-spiced potatoes served with a divine garlic cream sauce for dipping. As I only have beef only a few times per year (after nearly twenty years of being allergic to all the crazy business that has been added to so much American beef), I want it to be perfect and yes, voila. This is comfort food folks, done well and so what more do you need for a relaxed afternoon? But I will be back for their more complex autumn/winter menu most certainly…
My Sister was absolutely delighted with her more reasonable and seasonable Planche Fraicheur–consider it a summer Best Of including gazpacho, jambon sec, more goat cheese plus a salad and crostini–at 18€ with a glass of wine included. She appreciated the quality of all of that was served as well as the dose of freshness on a hot summer day.
I never like to feel closed in on a terrace and in Arles our Place du Forum can be a bit of a circus with so much bustle and push. Not so at L’Oustaloun with a wide open view of the church with its random ringing bell, the swish of the plane trees and the sweet mist from the neighbouring fountain. Now, if you don’t feel the Provençal charm in such an environment, I am not sure where you will…
The service was flawless, old-school style. Never intrusive yet friendly and on top of the game. Mr. Ben was brought a giant bowl of water and well, of course, he had many bits served under the table. As you can see, he was equally pleased by our visit.
This lunch was took place on the last day of my Sister’s visit and what a fine experience it was. As I mentioned in the previous post, L’Oustaloun also has charming rooms at very reasonable prices. For anyone looking to truly immerse themselves in the experience of an authentic, albeit elegant Provençal village, look no further than this lovely address.
L’Oustaloun
place de L’Église
13520 Maussane-Les-Alpilles
Tel.: +33 (0)4 90 54 45 57
www.loustaloun.com
Bon appétit!
Dear Robin,
Now, I gather you live in America and presumably are back here again (as I am)?
Well, then, you'll know that somewhat disorienting feeling of thinking "Oh, I'll make that wonderful goat-cheese thing we had in ____"…..and then going to, at best (and at least around these parts), Whole Foods, where you find some wildly overpriced and not particularly remarkable goat cheese….and you make your goat-cheese thing, but it just ISN'T what you're recalling so fondly from only a week ago and three thousand miles away? I've grown used to this over the years (a lot of which I've spent in France).
Amusingly enough, I recently ran into Frances (she of "Under the Tuscan Sun" fame) and Ed Mayes in Durham's Whole foos… of all desperate resorts for those attempting to re-create a simple (but only if you happen to be THERE)European meal. We chatted a bit (they're neighbors, when they happen to be in America), and at one very funny point Frances (who was pushing their cart) made a "Oh…nyahhhhh" sound as she reached into the basket and waved a rather despondent bunch of "fresh" basil around, above her head. She just rolled her eyes resignedly and murmured "Five DOLLARS!?…ohhhh….." and trailed off into a resigned, "What can you do?" sigh.
In any case, your and Heather's lunch looks and sounds wonderful. You'll just have to savor the memory until you trot back to Arles sometime soon….
P.S. If you were at my house for lunch today, I'd tell you the very funny tale of Herve's first encountering, when he first moved to this country, American (read "Kraft") "Parmesan", "Swiss", and "Mozarella" cheese. I still haven't, after ten years, introduced him to Velveeta….but his mother discovered it during one of her visits and loves the stuff. We both agree that we KNOW it's not cheese, but it sure is good…..and it does make things stick together.
Best Wishes, and thanks to you and Heather for sharing the experiences of your trip. Oddly enough, reading about your lunch makes me sort of homesick (we had to cancel our annual, long month-of-june French trip this year; we've been moving)….which is an odd way to think of it, given that I'm completely American.
—david terry
http://www.davidterryart.com
Your salad looks and sounds like something I served last night only with a vinaigrette. Like you I haven't been able to eat beef most of my life because of the stuff they injected in cows but after moving to the country where the cows are fed only natural things I too have been enjoy beef a few times a year. Dylan loves it when we grill as he knows, even if it's steak, he'll be getting his fair share as well. I love how your food was presented since you eat with your eyes also. Sounds like my sort of place that serves our four legged friends as well.
XX
Debra~
Ah Francine, it will still be warm enough in September…actually it will be even lovelier! I would love to meet there if you are up for it and this time I won't cancel because of the cold, I promise… 😉
I really liked this for a casual lunch. And oh yes, the Valdition Estate is too dangerous! I don't let myself go that often!!
Oh Sister! If only you could magically zip back over here so we could go again!
Merci Jenny–hope you are well! 🙂
I would love to be there, we could meet, have lunch, share stories..i'll have a rose and a Pastis before dinner.
I love the square in Mausanne, have stopped there a few times for drinks but never lunch. Must give it a try next time (hopefully next year!)
By the way we were in Provence in June & visited the Valdition Estate you mentioned in an earlier post. Wonderful, spent far too much money. It was worth if for the drive there & surrounding ladscape.
Yes!! As I was there, I can vouch for the magnificent view, ambience, service, and food! What a wonderful lunch; it seems like only a week ago…wait! That's because it WAS one week ago – to the day!!! Thanks for reminding me of one of the many beautiful times we had (as if I needed reminding), and I agree with you – this is a restaurant to check out and go back to!
It looks yummy, the food and the restaurant. xo Jenny