“Why don’t you write more about the Rhone?” Remi asked one day while I was putting together yet another post rhapsodizing over the inherent power of the crumbly remnants of time. “What do you mean?” I tossed back with a casual tilt then scratch of my cheek. “The Rhone,” he repeated flatly. I blinked and tried to look winsome.
Yes, I know it is the reason why Arles exists, why Arelate or “town above the marshy lands” became so powerful in Roman times. Because a river runs through it. While preparing my first guided tour–given recently to an indescribably lovely group of Australian readers of this blog–its importance was a key thread of the conversation. Having the southern-most bridge before the Mediterranean while intersecting on the roads to Italy and Spain, it was the crossroads of Gaul. Spices and exotic goods came in, jars of wine, olive oil and fish flowed out, offering wealth for all involved. Times have changed–its days as an important port ending abruptly with the arrival of train transportation–but the river’s appeal has not.
I love the Rhone deeply. I stroll the recently renovated quay with Ben, my Golden Retriever nearly every day and I am not alone. It is one of the social centers of the city, where one can be lost in thought or cling laughingly to the arm of a companion. It is ever-changing depending on the light, the time of day, the season and roil of the current. Vincent Van Gogh painted it often, also drawn to its mercurial nature.
Which, I realized this morning is exactly why I don’t mention it more frequently despite it’s being such an important part of our daily lives in Arles–parce que le fleuve coule, it slips through my fingers. I can’t capture it in words or images in any way that is satisfactory to me but I can try. I grabbed my camera, called my faithful canine companion and headed out the door.
The Rhone is not neutral, it is nature. The Mistral winds can gather enough force off the winter waves to knock a strong man down. In 2003, the river rose with the rains to kiss the underside of the bridge, spilling over the banks and leaving many homeless for months. But I prefer to focus on all it gives. It is where I have gone on my darkest days, confident that the tide would pull my worries away and where Remi and I walked to celebrate buying our first house here, one whose roof terrace looked onto its shimmering surface. Perhaps that is why the Rhone makes Arles synonymous with home. It is hard to imagine living without it.
thank you so much for visiting the blog and for the nice words. Your blog is an inspiration for some Provence inspired posts. It's a real window on such a wonderful part of France.
je te souhaite une bonne journée!!!!! A' très bientot!
laura
Grazie Laura! You are welcome back any time. What an amazing city you live in!
Thank you Leslie, I saw that article! And yes, those trucks have caused quite a stir. Oh my, if only I could bake as well as my Sister I could open up one here in Arles for the summer months, filling it with all sorts of goodies and I am POSITIVE it would be a huuuge success. The only kind of food trucks we have here are pizza trucks but it isn't even good pizza! 🙁 I would be thrilled beyond belief for taco truck, a Korean BBQ truck, anything!!!
Have a great weekend. If you ever feel so inclined, I would love to see a photo of your puppers! My email is robinsonheather@yahoo. com.
amazing blog!!!! thank you for the pics. I would love to go in Provence for a summer trip. Before I plan that trip. I will surely drop by to check for tips!
laura from Rome
No sooner had you mentioned food trucks (see above), Heather, than I ran into an article in The New York Times titled "An American Rood Truck in Paris, Greeted With Open Mouths." A long and interesting article, it was on the cover page and page A3 of the Monday, June 4, 2012 issue. If you can't access it online, let me know and I'll send you the hard copy.
Once again, with every good wish, Leslie in Portland, Oregon
Heather, having your own boat may be more feasible than you realize. To purchase and own a boat like ours (in Oregon, at least) is not terribly costly. Our boat is older than our children (built in the 1970's), but sturdy, powerful enough for the big rivers (a strong inboard-outboard engine), wide, safe and easy to clean…perfect for boating with wet dogs and/or kids. Because an older boat like ours is not "glamorous," one in good running order can be had for $2000-3000 (or less) here. Since the engine on our boat is in good shape, our main ongoing expenses are for fuel, insurance and materials for re-doing the upholstery and floor every few years.
Yes, Kristin at French-Word-A-Day introduced me to the Calanques near Cassis, and exploring that area is high on our list. Thank you for the link; I'll take a look at it as soon as I can find more than five open minutes!
I'm so sorry that pollution is that bad on the Rhone. That used to be the case with the Willamette, but a couple of major efforts to clean it up and keep it that way has brought it back to good health. I'm glad Ben gets to swim at the beach. Henry and Bob love nothing more than to play in the surf at the Oregon coast.
Thanks to you, I realize that we must do careful pollution research if we plan river explorations around being able to get in the water. If all of the bigger French rivers are badly polluted, we'll probably switch our focus to the coasts.
Come visit Portland (and us). You were very prescient in spotting the allure of the food trucks. They are everywhere around the city now, and we need help in deciding which ones to patronize. Come and write a guide (with Remy and Ben)!
Back to you, my favorite explorer!
Ooh, something tells me it will be a sliiiightly different experience than in winter. 🙂 Yippeeee!!!! Let the countdown begin!
Wah! Really? How cool is that? 🙂
I agree Stacey. It is the best part of this blogging shenanigans, that is for sure!!
Yes! The Artist's Way is on my Kindle (I downloaded it years ago and then could never find the time to do it) and I started working through it a couple weeks ago! Thanks again for all your support, Heather! XO