Now, I do love the Côte d’Azur, I do. Or I have come to love it after my dives for the rare pearls of peace and the past. They can be hard to come by. Not so on the wide-open other side of France’s Mediterranean coast. If authenticity is what you seek, Sète, a half hour south of Montpellier, is ready for her close-up. But only if you are shooting a documentary because this girl has a day job. A polar anti-thesis to Cannes, it is the second largest port on the French Mediterranean after Marseille, one instigated by Louis XIVths own Colbert. Materials of all sorts are launched across the world and the fish is as fresh as you can dream of (more of that very soon). The Grand Canal winds its way between the Bassin de Thau and the shimmering sea and yet the ambiance entirely lacks the frothy romance to deserve its nickname as “The Venice of Southern France.” Locals, of whom I was lucky enough to have one show me the ropes, call it an island but it isn’t quite one. Sète is of the in-between in several senses. Prosperous times have been followed by rough economies and then back again. And it shows. This is not a place to come looking for a dream but to wake up (hopefully not in one of the sailor’s bars) and realize that you just might love it somehow, despite or because of the rusty iron balconies, the grated plaster, the glint-eyed sea captains that will threaten a punch if you take their photo. But there are also hipster hotels, a contemporary art museum staffed by pouting young folk draped in black, a burgeoning photo festival and one of the world’s most beautiful concert venues in a Vauban fort positioned for sunset over the waves. I just want to take my hankie and polish the corners a bit. But Sète might prefer to be left just as it is, to follow the ups and downs of its own tide.
Heather love dropping by for my virtual French tour!! Always a surprise, the concert venue sounds superb…just trying to get my head around you with your hankie polishing:)
Carla x
Thank you so much for the 'bienvenue'. I am really delighted that she has asked me to participate. I have a wee little blog here! :O
Oh thank you so much Marsha! I am trying to get better with my photography but it is baby steps. Very excited for next week!
Bisous…
Loved this humorous take on Sete…I want to go take a look for myself!
Marsha just mentioned you are on the 'by invitation' group, welcome.
xD
Loving the new big picture format!
What absolutely stunning photography, Heather, I've sent this post on to my son who went to school at Parson's in Paris. Totally beautiful, and a new place for me to see. I also am enthralled with your writing, my friend. xx's
Looks like a fascinating place, Heather, with lots of patina and charm. The photos are beautiful. XO
Thanks Liza! As a fellow foodie, I know that you would love it there!
I've never heard of Sete but it looks beautiful. Love the picture with the blue door. In fact, I'm loving all of these larger size photos.
Don't forget Loumarin! 🙂 Heeheehee…
And David, Jane and Lance are true adventurers and some of my very favorite people that I have had the pleasure of "meeting" on the 'internets' (and we plan to meet in person before the end of the year). In case you have never had the pleasure, here is the address of their exceptionally popular blog:
http://hattatt.blogspot.fr/2012/05/only-connect.html
As you will see, I am far from alone in my admiration of their many, many outstanding qualities.
The more that you speak of Sete, the more that I agree that a visit is in order. Yes, rough around the edges but minus the fine music of Memphis (that I sadly don't know) and NOLA (which I do and crazily adore). And I will find the name of the decidedly unflophouse hotel that I spied on the quay for you too…
-H