Now, I do love the Côte d’Azur, I do. Or I have come to love it after my dives for the rare pearls of peace and the past. They can be hard to come by. Not so on the wide-open other side of France’s Mediterranean coast. If authenticity is what you seek, Sète, a half hour south of Montpellier, is ready for her close-up. But only if you are shooting a documentary because this girl has a day job. A polar anti-thesis to Cannes, it is the second largest port on the French Mediterranean after Marseille, one instigated by Louis XIVths own Colbert. Materials of all sorts are launched across the world and the fish is as fresh as you can dream of (more of that very soon). The Grand Canal winds its way between the Bassin de Thau and the shimmering sea and yet the ambiance entirely lacks the frothy romance to deserve its nickname as “The Venice of Southern France.” Locals, of whom I was lucky enough to have one show me the ropes, call it an island but it isn’t quite one. Sète is of the in-between in several senses. Prosperous times have been followed by rough economies and then back again. And it shows. This is not a place to come looking for a dream but to wake up (hopefully not in one of the sailor’s bars) and realize that you just might love it somehow, despite or because of the rusty iron balconies, the grated plaster, the glint-eyed sea captains that will threaten a punch if you take their photo. But there are also hipster hotels, a contemporary art museum staffed by pouting young folk draped in black, a burgeoning photo festival and one of the world’s most beautiful concert venues in a Vauban fort positioned for sunset over the waves. I just want to take my hankie and polish the corners a bit. But Sète might prefer to be left just as it is, to follow the ups and downs of its own tide.
YOU MADAME H need to meet DASH!!!!!!!!!!!Love her photo!I need a photo………..how do I do that?!
Beautiful photos of the water!!!!!!!You take me back to the early 1990's……..living outside Florence, Italy!we always went to the sea at PUNTA ALA for Holiday at the campgrounds!!!!!!!!!!BAIA VERDE it was called…….my husbands family have been going there for years!You are one lucky gal!Think I have said that before!
xoxo
I'd never heard of Sete before reading your beautiful post.
Wow!
What a gorgeous place to spend any day…
Thank you for the introduction.
xo
Brooke
Thank you for the introduction to Sete. Did I see grilled sardines on the menu. My favourite. The images are spectacular. You have captured the soul of the city.
Have a glorious week
helen xx
I am struck by all the shades of blue you captured.
The turquoise sea is amazing Heather especially the image with a touch of gold. Amazing as your writing. Thank you.
I have one foot out the door so can only merely glance at this delicious melange of colour – shall pop back in this afternoon for a more leisurely degustation. For it deserves to be savoured! VB x
Thank you for taking me back to the area where I spent several weeks every summer during my childhood. My mom's family was based in Meze, the town mentioned by Dash in her commment above. If I am not mistaken, you show a photo of Meze, and the oyster parks (where my grandmother once worked) in your post. We would travel to Sete on a regular basis, but could see the city every day, across from the often unpredictable Etang de Thau (the salt water lagoon,) as we played at the Meze beach. In the summer, Sete and Meze still compete with their fun "Tournoi de Joutes" (Medieval joust tournament– but held on boats!) Do not miss it if you have not seen it yet! Veronique (French Girl in Seattle)
Oh, and don't forget the beautiful cemetery! My favorite spot in Sete, it is also the final resting place for Paul Valery, poet and singer/songwriter who was born in town. Lovely post, thank you!
Amazing post! Thanks for sharing these beautiful photos Heather, along with an informative look at Sete. I was not aware of this area, but would so enjoy visiting some day. Also, love the "authenticity" that you mentioned, it looks unpolished, yet fascinating.
Super post Heather, beautifully written and lovely pictures. I know Sete very well, I was having lunch on the other side of the Bassin de Thau, in Meze, on Saturday, I am sure you already know along with Bouzigues it's neighbour it's a great place to eat fresh oysters, can't believe we have missed each other by a day and an Étang!
XXX