I take Les Baux de Provence for granted. It is so close to Arles that I forget that it is the second most visited attraction in France. Or maybe that is exactly the reason why I choose to forget it. The run of shops selling ceramic chanting cigales embarrass me, as do the bonbon bins piled high with fluorescent treats. There is little in this “grab for the gold” that corroborates with the sites phenomenal past. So best to go in winter, when at least the howl of the Mistral winds covers the Muzak and keeps the largest of the tourist buses in the valley below.
For you do have to go up, up to reach the heart of Les Baux. It was exactly its position on high that called to its first inhabitants as long ago as 6000 BC. An oppidum, or hill fort was built in 2 BC and the rocky outcrop (which is the source of its name in Provençal) has been inhabited ever since. But not without its ups and downs.
Certainly its most glorious period came in the Middle Ages. The Lords of Baux, whose lineage is believed to have descended from Balthazar, one of the Magi at Bethlehem, ruled 79 towns and villages over a region that stretched beyond Provence into Italy. They had a fearsome reputation and were willing to go to war at the drop of a gauntlet but they were equally voracious in love. The songs of their troubadours are still strung and woefully warbled.
But even the greatest of fortunes can fade. Battles can be lost. By the 15th century, the Lords were at rest. Fortunately, Anne of Montmorency took over their castle in the 16th, transforming it into a Renaissance masterpiece. Again, the power swirled upon the hill, until Cardinal Richelieu, in fear of its strength, had the castle destroyed once and for all in 1632. From there it was left to ruin, rediscovered and acclaimed by the Provençal poets Frederic Mistral and Alphonse Daudet but uninhabited save for a band of beggars. That is until after the Second World War, when Raymond Thuillier brought the likes of Picasso and Churchill to this sleepy corner to eat at his restaurant, L’Oustau de Baumaniere. And the world followed suit. Only in France could such a site be saved by the heft of a golden spoon. Les Baux de Provence has been a marquisate of the Grimaldi family since the 17th century. Prince Albert of Monaco is the current marquis and sightings of the Royal Family in the tiny chapel for Christmas Eve service have also added to the village’s timeless allure.
A bit of advice on visiting. If you must go during the summer months, I strongly urge you to go either very early or very late in the day. If you wish to see the castle, I would suggest the latter as the ticket price is greatly reduced one hour before the official closing time and once inside, you are welcome to stay as long as you like. And that, my dear friends, means that if you plan wisely and tuck a bottle of rosé in your sack, you may have one of the finest apéros imaginable with thousands of years of history all to yourself.
Isn't it true, Heather. Loved your last blog entry!
Much good advice…a late Oct. day is perfect…
Carcasonne is so magical from afar….you can hear the knights thundering across the plains…but the disappointment upon entering is hard to explain how awful…but still best to see for oneself! Les Baux off season still reasonates with it's history…thanks for the reminder.
To find so many fantastic comments this morning is waking me up quicker than my coffee!
Murissa, it can be a good thing to have wine no matter where you are in the world. Remi is an all-time champion of making it materialize: in the Amazon on the edge of the Sahara…we both love BC and I think that you must have one swell life! Glad you found the blog!
Greet! Oh how fantastic but yet not surprising–of course you must have loved L'Ousteau–it is so very elegant yet welcoming–just like you! But it makes me sad to think that you were so close. The next time you are here we will make you a wonderful dinner. Bon weekend, copine!
Angela, I love that Julie sent you over and I can't wait to find out more about you. What an amazing life you have led. Yes, we take that walk often–Remi has photographed Les Baux so many times from the cliff opposite. I also love the path below the village that takes you to the chapel and the Tremoié (oh my, I am fairly certain that isn't spelled correctly hopefully you will know what I am talking about). We are lucky ducks and it seems we both know it.
Q, oh my you have enough to do! Not to worry about the past, just keep moving forward in that fabulous way that you do. and as for L'Oustau, next time–but only if we can meet. 🙂
Have a wonderful weekend everyone! Off to the market!
I am so happy to be back with power so I can visit friends – I will try and come back to visit the posts I missed!! When we were visiting my son in Aix a couple of years ago, we almost went to L'Oustau de Baumaniere for dinner but we had so few days we never made it. And we had hoped to do Les Baux too – it was November – definitely off season
Hello Heather, I just came onto your blog and wanted to say how much I enjoyed it. My friend Julie Mautner (Provence Post) suggested I take a look and I'm glad I did!
I love Les Baux in the winter or in the evening after a vernissage or something, otherwise I take the dogs further along the road up the hill and view the village from there…..you also get a splendid 360 degree view of all the countryside around. Love the history of these places!
Dear Heather,
Seeing this post, it reminds me visiting les Beaux a few years ago. We stayed at Ousteau de Beaumanière! It was a unforgettable trip!!
Thank you so much for these wonderful pictures here!You are so lucky to live in one of the most beautiful places on earth!!!
Bon weekend ma chère!!
xx
Greet
Some great advice about the Rose! I suggest always having a bottle in your packsack when touring Italy as well. You never know.
Some great writing her so thank you, it was a pleasure to read and to look at!
Love you blog!
The Wanderfull Traveler